1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration

General Information


  1. There are available FACTORY EXACT Date Coded Glass for 1968 thru 1969 A body vehicles. You’ll get the correct logos and print styles, according to your vehicles build date and manufacturing plant.

Front Windshield for a Fastback

  1. The Barracuda coupe (notchback) and fastback have identical windshields. But not side glass (other than vent windows), and obviously not rear glass.

  2. Max Heim - ’67 FB

  1. A 2 door Dart windshield is the same as a ‘Cuda. Trim around the window is too. I checked the ’69 parts manual. and cross referenced with one at a local boneyard, and he showed ‘67-’74 2 Door Dart (NOT-Dart Sport), and 2 door Valiant.  Of course, ‘67-’69 Barracuda as well.

Aftermarket Front Windshield

  1. Vintage Glass carries the front windshield.    (888) 282-8789


  1. Metro Parts Market

  2. Try: http://www.metropartsmarket.com/glass/classicautoglass-c6s1.html

  3. AMD windshield (with the Pentastar).

  1. Sanders Repro Glass

  2. They have the AS1 markings.

  3. https://www.sandersreproglass.com

Front Windshield Installation

  1. Replace front windshield after dash installation.

  2. Put on clips. When putting on glue for windows, use rubber gloves.

  3. Put on glue, mount window without disturbing clips

Rear Windshield for a Fastback

Aftermarket Front Windshield

1968 Window Information

  1. Plymouth - 1968 (Fastback) BARRACUDA - Model BH29-7, BH29-8, BH29-9 Parts


  1. EachTotal

  2. Back (Curved Glass) 38" x 52"

  3. Pattern: DB4076

  4. Tint: CLN - Clear

  5. $304.00

  6. Back (Curved Glass) 38" x 52"

  7. Pattern: DB4076

  8. Tint: GTN - Green tint

  9. $315.00

  10. Back (Curved Glass) 38" x 52"

  11. Pattern: DB4076

  12. Tint: YTN - Solar Gray tint

  13. $327.00

  14. Michael Mosley - ’68 Cuda

Rear Window for a Fastback

Aftermarket Rear Window for Fastback

  1. Metro Parts Market carries the rear window.

  2. http://www.metropartsmarket.com/glass/classicautoglass-c6s1.html

  3. You can get ASI windshields in clear, green, or solar grey tint.

  4. Go to Sanders Reproglass

  5. http://www.sandersreproglass.com


  7. Window Moulding

  8. ’67 Window Moulding

  9. ‘67 used a different gasket and different trim than ‘68-’69. The ‘67's have a different type of molding, which is held in place by a center strip, rather than clips. The ‘67 center strip gets damaged by the elements, the ‘67 corner trim pieces are hard to find.

  10. ‘67 used fake "chrome" plastic "locking strips" that tucked into a groove in the gasket. Snapped-on stainless corner pieces are required to cover the gaps in the corners.

  11. ’68 - ’69 Window Moulding

  12. ‘68-’69 used a different gasket, with solid metal stainless trim all around, held in place by a few dozen screwed-on clips.

  13. ’67 Alternative Window Moulding

  14. Many ‘67 owners think the ‘68-69 molding looks better, so most ‘67 owners replace the ‘67 molding with ‘68-69 molding. That's why ‘68-69 molding is so scarce and expensive. The screws have the sealant on them.

  15. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe

  16. So, you have some choices here:

  17. 1. Original ‘67: keep the old gasket (if they can save it), or buy a replacement ‘67 gasket from the one outfit that stocks it. Buy the corner pieces and repro lockstrip from the same outfit.

  18. Pro: simple, works.

  19. Con: lockstrip will shrink within months, crack and discolor in a year or two (just like the original).

  20. 2. "CBC" option: use Ramcharger lockstrip instead of the expensive repro ‘67 lockstrip. Doesn't look quite the same, but is cheap enough that you can replace it when it cracks (and it will). Still need the gasket and corner pieces. Ramcharger part # 04467329.

  21. 3. Convert to ‘68-’69: the problem here is finding the donor trim (not available repro). Start with ordering a ‘68-’69 gasket, and a set of repro molding clips. Use the pattern (attached, and available in the "Files"

  22. section of the BOG site) to drill the holes for the clips while the windshield is out. Acquire the stainless molding from a ‘68-’69 Barracuda coupe or fastback (not convertible), or any ‘68-and-up Dart or Valiant

  23. HARDTOP (not 4dr or 2dr sedan, not Duster or Dart Sport). This will be an attractive, permanent solution, if not "concours" correct.

  24. The back window is basically the same story, except that obviously you can only use the trim from a Barracuda fastback. Good luck if you have a coupe... you're getting into the realm of the ultra-rare...

  25. Sources:

  26. http://rtspecialties.net/

  27. http://www.laysons.com/

  28. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback, ’67 Conv.

  29. Window Moulding Removal

  30. During disassembly make a note on how the factory rubber seals were put on with the profile as seen. Many shop manuals do not show you this and it can mess up the fit of your doors and deck lid if incorrect.

  31. A bottle opener wrapped with masking tape, and lots of patience. This was the tip I got, and it has worked well for me. The bottle opener was easy, the patience was not.

  32. I have also used the bottle opener wrapped in electrical tape - just be very gentle when prying the trim off the body. It can still dimple if you are not careful. A small piece of tin under the rounded part of the opener might be advisable to distribute the pressure on the top of the trim.


  34. One method recommended to me by my paint and body shop - that I have not tried - is using the edge of a small piece of wood under the bottom edge of the roof moulding and gently tapping it with a hammer to pop the trim up off the rail. 

  35. Steve Toth

  36. I tried a piece of wood against the drip molding and tap it off. The wood 3/4 x 5/8" x 12" long, put the wood against the glass next to (along) the other chrome molding above the window, used the bent end of the small pry bar against the drip molding at the very end, and pried the end loose. I pulled it out just enough to get the straight end of the pry bar under the molding. I gently pulled the molding out while sliding the pry bar towards the front of the car. I had to stop occasionally and pry the molding where it was exceptionally tight. I used the 5/8 flat side against the glass. Actually, the length could be 1" or longer. I just used scrap that happened to be that long.

  37. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda

Stainless Steel Moulding Restoration

  1. Remove the waterproofing gunk from the bottom trim piece that is used to seal the windshield. Use a buffing wheel and compound to start restoring the trim for the windshield and rear window. The wheel and compound can be bought from Eastwood. After about 15 minutes, it will look nice and shiny. Not mirror quality, but very nice.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

  1. While working on this piece: wet sanding is the key. Using dry 600 grit sandpaper doesn't have much of an effect, Spraying a little WD40 on the paper made a world of difference. Doing that before starting with the coarse wheel make this piece much easier to restore.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Aftermarket Stainless Steel Moulding

  1. You would need to find the stainless molding, which shouldn't be that hard. It's a lot more common than the hardtop molding, or at least it spans more years of production (’68 - ‘76, rather than ’68 - ‘69).

  2. Or you could just run it "black". Unlike ‘67, the molding doesn't have any structural function. It's just dress-up.

  3. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback

  1. Window Weatherstrip and Lock Strip

  2. I got mine from YearOne...part # CM-8. It's the closest to the original as you can get.

  3. Darwin

  4. I have the Steele '68-up gasket in my '68 fastback. Our '67 convertible has the Soft Seal windshield gasket and lock strip in it. I didn't like how the corners fit and am much happier with the Steele in the '68.

  5. Rob McCall - '68 Fastback, ’67 Conv.

  1. Window Clean-Up

  2. Clean all the old sealant off the perimeter of the windshield and rear window. It is just a bunch of tedium, scraping the glass with a razor blade and then removing what was left with paint thinner. Takes the entire night.

  3. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Windshield Gasket Seal

Front Windshield Gasket

  1. There are several groups of windshield trims/gaskets for A-bodies, that are NOT all interchangeable. So, as far as Barracuda owners are concerned, the only models of interest are hardtops & coupes, and only of certain years and models. Excepting convertibles, which are their own thing entirely.

  1. Windshield gaskets for A-bodies ’67 - ’76 break down like this:

"Group 1"  Hardtops, fastbacks, and coupes (Sedans)

  1. A. 1967 Dart & Valiant sedan, 2dr & 4dr

  2. 1967 Barracuda & Dart - same glass, same gasket, same plastic trim with

  3. metal corners.

  4. B. 1968+ Dart & Valiant sedan, 2dr & 4dr

  5. 1968-69 Barracuda, 1968-76 Dart & Dart Swinger, ’71 - ‘76 Scamp - same glass as above; different gasket, stainless trim with clips. Both can be retrofitted to 1967 hardtops by drilling the holes for the clips.

  1. It is easy to drill and install the reveal clips. The clips worked fine. The rubber gasket does seal up but has the gap in each corner at the top.

  2. Kirby

  3. ‘67 FB, ‘68 Conv

"Group 2" (2dr sport hardtops (late) )

  1. E. Duster, Demon, Dart Sport

  2. ’70 - ‘76 Duster, Demon, Dart Sport - this is a completely different windshield glass, gasket and trim, NOT interchangeable with the preceding models.

"Group 3"  Sedans, 2dr and 4dr (2dr sport hardtops (early) )

  1. C. 1967 Dart, Valiant hardtop & Barracuda coupe, Barracuda fastback

  2. 1967 Valiant, Dart - another different glass, gasket, and plastic trim.

  3. D. 1968+ Dart, Valiant hardtop & 1968-9 Barracuda coupe, Barracuda fastback

  4. 1968-76 Valiant, Dart - same glass as above, different gasket and stainless

  5. trim with clips.

"Group 4"  Convertibles

  1. 1967-69 Barracuda & Dart - unique glass, gasket and plastic trim.

  2. F. 1967-9 Barracuda & 1968+ Dart (don't know when they stopped making Dart convertibles; guessing it was ‘69)

Front Windshield Gasket Cross Use

  1. So that's 6 different gaskets, just for windshields. The only ones that are interchangeable are A & B, and C & D, and that is only if you get the appropriate lock strip or trim pieces & clips.

  2. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback

  3. You can use a ‘68 front windshield gasket in a ‘67 fastback. Also the stainless moldings. Just about any '68+ A-body trim works. Convertible trim is different.

  1. Max Heim posted this image to show you where to drill holes for the clips. Windshield has to come out. 

  2. https://xa.yimg.com/df/BarracudaOwners/windshieldClips.gif?token=ud6ettC6ZdfD1RE4gtek9c2s-NK6G0pmeRcaHYjC6eIrtOh6yUOa9J1iKnWhNFenBgCEkAMXfw1tUo22pF7mElwWaEuf39v5wNMV_rM8xQ2VnA&type=download

  1. In switching a ‘67 FB over to a ‘68 trim, there is a gap at the top of the rear window at each corner. I bought my rubber from RT specialties and used their clips which worked fine. When comparing it to another car switched from 67 trim his did not have the gap. 

  2. Kirby Holden - ‘67 FB, ‘68 Conv.

  1. You can use windshield trim from a Dart or Valiant HT from 68 all the way to the end of production. Sedan is a different shape. So is Duster/Demon/Dart Sport. Convertible is a bottom strip only, same 67-68-69. 

  2. Max Heim - ‘67 FB

Aftermarket Front Windshield Gasket

  1. From YearOne: Part Number: WCRD690

  2. Reproduction windshield gasket for 1968-1969 Barracuda fastback models and all 1968-1972 A-body coupe models.

  1. Steele Rubber makes the 1968+ windshield gasket for the 4dr.

  2. Paddock lists them for $115.

Rear Window

Rear Window Removal for a ‘69 Fastback

  1. If you are not replacing the gaskets and the glass, then follow this procedure:  

  2. 1.obtain two "glass sticks", nylon tools available from a friendly auto glass shop, here is an eBay listing: http://tinyurl.com/yafq3v2o.  

  3. 2.you'll need some diluted dishwashing liquid or similar slippery soap solution

  4. 3.a razor knife, razor scraper, or similar tool

  5. 4.A helper is nice

  6. 5.I wear an old pair of running shoes, and also wear safety glasses. 


  1. 1.Of course, remove the metal trim first

  2. 2.unlock the gasket--you'll find a seam on the face of the gasket, one half of the gasket sort of "unfolds" from the other half, or maybe "untucks" might be a better description. Use the nylon tools to get the "untuck" started and continue with the soap solution as lube;

  3. 3.use the nylon tools to loosen the gasket from around the glass, all the way around. Just stick it in under the rubber and pull along the glass, making sure the rubber isn't stuck to the glass. Sometimes people will have used windshield sealant to install the glass if it was fixed after a crash, or silicone seal or whatnot when they were trying to cure a leak, and you may need careful use of the razor knife to loosen up that stuff if there is any. Again, make sure the lip of the gasket isn't stuck at all to the glass.  

  4. 4.get in the car, front seat or back seat as appropriate for the glass you are removing. Put the front seat all the way back if you are working on front glass, or all the way forward if working on rear glass. Put your running shoes/sneakers on and your eye protection. Lay back and put your feet on the glass, at the middle top. CAREFULLY press to start the glass out of the gasket. Once you've got a little initial movement, move your feet a bit further apart and press again, and work your feet out to the upper corners. It will take several times of starting in the middle and working out to the corners, using the minimum pressure you can to obtain a bit of movement of the glass. You should reach a point in which the glass bumps out at the top, kind of pushing the seal out into a bulge.  

  5. 5. Now is where a helper is good to have. The glass should be easier to push now that the top is unlocked so to speak. Work your feet down each side at the same time. Once the upper corners are pretty much out of the gasket, get out of the car and with your helper, each of you take one side of the glass and gently pull it on out of the gasket. You'll then lift it up and out of the bottom of the gasket--careful! it often has the gasket sticking to it-- and walk it over the hood and to wherever you are going to store it while you do your other work. 

Rear Window Installation for a ‘69 Fastback

  1. To reinstall, put the gasket in place using some specific windshield gasket sealing material particularly on the bottom where the gasket sits on the flange and in the corners where it just sits right on more or less flat body metal, I've used the Permatex brand. It is black, and has kind of a course appearance and feel. 

  2. 1. Put the windshield bottom into the bottom channel of the gasket. 

  3. 2. Rub the rest of the edges of the glass with your soap solution and begin working the lip of the gasket up and over the edge of the glass using the nylon sticks, while gradually pressing the glass further into the gasket sides (again, the helper is good here, doing both sides at once. 

  4. 3. You'll reach the top edge and again, just work the gasket up and over the edge of the glass. 

  5. 4. Once the glass is fully surrounded by rubber on its outside edges, you have to push the top and upper corners back to fully seat again in the gasket. The glass will sort of pop back in as it fully seats.

  6. Put the gasket in then soap the inside then I work the glass in with plastic tools.

  7. Because with the sealer and the way the zipper works, it is a bear to get centered, supported and in place. You actually install the gasket first, using masking tape to hold to body, then the glass sits in place and then the seal is “zipped” in place. Word of warning, use a ton of sealer both seal to body, and glass to seal. Otherwise you will have significant leaks. All the window clips and the headliner needs to be in place before installing glass.


  9. I ended up inside of the car supporting the glass from underneath as the glass guy worked the seal. 

  10. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback

  11. Steele Rubber Products on the East coast makes an aftermarket strip that will fit your windshield.

Aftermarket Rear Window Gaskets for ’69 fastback

  1. Avoid the RT Specialties back window rubber because it leaves said gaps at the top corners. So dies the Classic Industries one.

  2. That said, the gaps may be an installation issue, when we went to install the rear window on my fastback the gasket looked to be wrong and have funny fitment issues but once it was in everything looked fine with some adjustments.

  3. Alan

  1. Layson's has them.

  2. Steele Rubber has them, and they have the locking strips in chrome and black.

  3. Soft Seal also makes windshield gasket and lock strip. The corners don’t fit well.

Window Clips

  1. Window clips hold the glass to body. They also hold the stainless steel trim around the window. The tab on the side doesn’t do anything -- it's just a remnant from the manufacturing process.

  2. Front clips are the same as the rears.

Clip Removal

  1. Screws sometimes are too difficult to get to and remove. Many are rusted in place, especially the lower ones from rain. You might strip some of them during removal. You cannot remove or replace the clips without removing the glass. You may have to drill to relocate holes due to rust.

  2. Angel Garrido - ’69 FB

  3. If you pry the molding off, it may bend the two lips down and outward and it will be hard to get off.

  4. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda

Replacement Clips

  1. Get the clip from MrMoparts for $20. The MrMoparts P/N is 270051.

  2. The MrMoparts kit does not have the sealant. I also bought a front window clip set, and the front clips are the same as the rears.

  3. Classic Industries set is MA9871, and their clip picture looks the same, too. Some vendors sell the sets with body sealant already applied under the screw heads.

  4. Listing has the clips as Chrysler P/N #6002263. Information from R/T  gives the part nos. 6002206, 6002615, and 6002615a.

  5. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200566430926?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

  6. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda

Re-attaching Clips

  1. I am about to drill holes in my ‘67 for the clips, and have the clip spacing templates from the Michael Mosley and the BOG files, but I don't see any dimensions from the edge of the mounting surface. A quick measurement looks like it should be somewhere around 1/4" to 5/16". Some measured and they all came up with 5/16", to the center of the hole.

  2. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe

  3. The hole size is 1/8” and centered in the rail.

  4. Daty Rogers - ’67 Conv.

  1. Go to the Files section of the Yahoo Groups site. There are some documents with instructions, and images showing the clip locations.

  2. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback

Windshield Lock Strip

  1. The ‘67 Barracuda convertible and ’68 fastback had the windshield weatherstrip rubber and chrome locking strip (plastic). You can get the rubber lock strip from Steele, or from YearOne (part #CM-8). It's the closest to the original as you can get.

Windshield Leaks

  1. The major problem a window leaks is that the gaskets were incorrectly installed or sealed. You also need the trim clips for both windows -- holes for mounting these will need to be drilled while the glass is out of the car.

  2. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback

Door Window

Door Window Slides

  1. The window slides are flocked mylar. They are mainly to keep the glass from rattling and block wind whistle.

  2. Use a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive and reuse. I only found one place in the US that had them. The pair are $100 plus change. Here is a link for some in Australia, but that will give you a part number and a place to look.

  3. http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_764_Mopar-Door-Glass-to-Front-Vent-Frame-Slide-Mopar-Part-02932230

  4. Jim Conner - ’68 ‘Cuda

  1. The window slides and the channel are available new from Mopar.

  2. Part #1-02932230 for the set, somewhere about $65. The window felts direct from Mopar are for less than they wanted for the ones on ebay.

  3. http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_764_Mopar-Door-Glass-to-Front-Vent-Frame-Slide-Mopar-Part-02932230?catId=161&searchStr=CHARGER&type=1&searchwhere=3

  1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mopar-Door-Glass-Run-Vent-Guide-Weatherstrip-Charger-Dart-Cuda-Satellite-/321536956596?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4add1898b4

  2. Michael Mosley - ’68 Coupe

  1. There is a very fragile looking slide that goes in the vertical slot on the back of the vent window rail.

  2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mopar-Door-Glass-Run-Vent-Guide-Weatherstrip-Charger-Dart-Cuda-Satellite-/221402579478?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338c9f4216

  3. I purchased mine from Just Mopars - $90 per side at the time for the window channel seals (mine were totally shot) and clips. https://www.justmopar.com

  4. It might be possible to reuse the clips if the plastic is not destroyed. The two plastic halves pull apart. The two halves friction fit over the center steel pin.

  5. If you took a section of the old channel to an auto glass shop, they might have a bulk channel seal on a reel that would work; or they might be able to source a channel seal that would work.

  6. And, if it comes down to trying to source bulk window channel seal, there's always the possibility that J.C. Whitney might have something that would work .........

  7. Steve Toth

Door Window Channel Weatherstripping

  1. After window alignment, install the window channel weatherstripping. These are the two pieces that contact the window as it rolls up and down. There's an inner and outer piece.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Vent Window

  1. The vent window assemblies are the same for ‘68-’69.


  1. You have to take the vent window assembly out just to replace the door window. They do that as a design "feature".

How to remove the vent window assembly

All Years

  1. According to the 1968 Factory Service Manual.

  2. 1.)  First roll down window then remove regulator.

  3. 2.)  Remove the adjusting bolt at the bottom of the vent window assembly,

  4. 3.)  Loosen the "hidden" screw behind the plastic button on the upper painted interior door surface or you will NOT be able to get the vent window assembly out.

  5. Steve Toth

  1. Remove the window glass by loosening the rear track and snaking it out of the door cavity, then, the vent window assembly can be removed.

  2. Lilycat

  3. You don't have to remove door glass to remove the assembly. But you have to roll them down so that you can remove the fuzzies and tilt the vent back. It is easier to pull the door glass and the regulator first, then the glass, then the vent assembly.

  4. Don


  1. The '67 has a long chrome rounded oval Phillips head on the surface of the inner door. It is about three inches long. A phillips screw driver will go through the slot on the inner door into the vent window mount.

  2. Catfish.

’68 & ’69

  1. The '68 and ’69 uses a hidden allen head screw. That screw for the door is hidden by a little rubber plug, up by where the mirror adjust knob is.

  2. Nathan Nutthall

An approach to removing Window Assembly

  1. 1. Remove the vent window frame bolt at the top of the front.

  2. 2. Remove the vent window frame nut and the washer from the adjuster on the front.

  3. 3. Remove the lower adjustment nut

  4. 4. Remove the drive screw and block

  5. 5. Remove the rubber door jam seal.

  6. 6. Remove the plastic rivet from the side glass that acts as the up stop to the frame.

  7. 7. Remove the top and lower bolt from the rear guide and remove the guide track from the door.

  8. 8. Remove the 3 bolts holding the regulator and remove the regulator from the door.

  9.     At this point the side glass is moving freely so be careful.

  10. 9.  Slide the window to the top position.

  11. 10. Holding the side glass and vent window frame lift the assembly up and back simultaneously at a 45 degree angle.

  12. 11. Just before you remove the assembly you'll need to twist the window glass to clear the lower adjusting mount at the foot of the frame.

  13. FOB

Assembly of Vent Window

  1. Following the instructions in the FSM, the window and vent frame need to go in the door together. You have to insert the window from the bottom of the track and insert assembly and glass at the same time.

  2. You can install the windows without the weatherstripping / metal that runs next to the headliner by the doors (the area that the windows seal against when rolled up). You just wouldn't be able to adjust them.

  3. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

  4. Bolt the rear window channel in the door, and then with help, get the window assembly in the door. It’s not adjusted yet, but the passenger door glass is now back in the car!

  1. Or take the window track piece that goes on inside door at rear, put on after you put window in.

  1. You can just assemble door handle and door opening mechanisms now and do the window assembly later. One is not really in the way of the other.

  2. Michael Mosley - ’68 Coupe

  1. If you degreased the regulator, put fresh grease on it. Then install it in the passenger door.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

’68 Window Assembly Restoration

  1. The side and vent windows install as a unit. Be sure the vent widow channel is clean.

’69 Window Assembly Restoration

  1. I would *highly* recommend getting all new window hardware at this point, most of it is very cheap also, its a good time to rebuild the window crank, clean it and grease it. Plan on spending a full weekend installing and adjusting all this.

Vent Frame Installation

  1. The vent frame has 3 things holding it in:
    - a small allen bolt with a square washer that is accessed thru a small hole in the upper inner door frame.

  2.   Part of the vent window slides between the square washer and the door frame
    - the leading edge of the vent window frame at the bottom has like a C looking shape that a larger bolt

  3.   holds onto. This bolt is on the front part of the door about midway down
    - the back portion of the vent frame will have a cylinder shape to it, This slips over a *stud* that is on the 

  4.   bottom of the door

    Parts needed:
    - you should replace the clear plastic things that go on the leading edge of the window that slides into the 

  5.   vent frame this keeps the window from rattling. They cost like $20 a side, and you will feel ripped off

  6.   when you see what you get for $20
    - nice big hammer and some scrap wood

Vent Wing Frame and Window Assembly

  1. There are 2 brackets inside the door that the vent wing frame slide between. There were 2 spot welds holding those brackets together. You may have to hack saw through the welds holding the two brackets together. Once the welds were gone, we were able to get the vent wing frame and glass in the door.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Vent Window Reassembly

  1. The window and vent frame need to go in the door together. When putting the vent window ass'y back in, use clear packing tape on both sides of the glass to hold it in the frame while dropping the frame in. Run the glass all the way up and then tape it. Twist the frame and drop the center pivot bar in first. Twist the frame back and tilt the rear of the window down. Then drop the assembly down into the door. I did mine by myself. If you have help, it's a lot easier.

  2. Jim Conner - ’68

  1. An extra pair of hands would be very helpful for this step. Starting at the back of the door and with the assembly rotated 90 degrees, insert the bottom of the vent window channel into the window opening, rotate the windows back to parallel, then slide them forward and insert the windows into the door.

  2. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

Lube Vent Window Assembly

  1. Clean and lube the 45 year old parts, even if I don’t really like it. It’s easier to lube the tracks and the regulator while you have them apart.

  2. Don

  1. Use high-temperature wheel bearing grease or white lithium on the roller guides, the channel edges, and the regulator pivot points.

  2. Lube vent window channel with some white lithium, then slide the door window into the vent window channel. Put some grease on the vent window pivot as well. Clean and grease the window channel and the regulator. Bolt the regulator loosely in place.

  3. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

Vent Window Seal

  1. If you are trying to get rid of "whistling", try

  2. 1.  WD40 on the rubber (it causes it to swell), 

  3. 2.  silicone grease on the glass to rubber mating surface areas. 

  4. Steve Toth

  5. I replaced driver side with a helper. This is a 2 person job. You have to remove the screws that hold wind wing frame to door so you can put the seal around the glass and frame.

  6. CAUTION!!!!!!

  7. When everything is removed the door glass can slide down past the bottom of the frame and expose a itty bitty plastic pin in the front lower corner of the window. The little piece of plastic keeps the glass in alignment so it go up and down. DO NOT lose this piece. This pin goes through a hole in the glass! try to keep pin in channel at all times.

  8. Get the new seal warm so it will fit around the frame and glass. Not too hard, just a lot of fasteners to keep track of, as well as keeping track of that pin

  9. Omar Lehr

Upper Pivot

  1. You need to replace the upper pivot (the spot where a screw actually passes through the glass). The old one is probably rusty and frozen in place. The plastic piece goes through the glass followed by the screw.

  2. Secure the metal channel within the frame that the weatherstripping slides into with JB Weld so it doesn’t separate from the frame.

  3. Replace the weatherstripping at the rear of the glass, where the quarter window mates. The original piece is likely cracked and worn out. Additionally, secure the rear frame to the glass with contact cement or glue.

  4. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Door Glass Slides  (Vent Frame Division Bar Liners)

  1. You may need to replace the plastic slides that go on the front edge of the door glass, which then slide up and down in the vent window channel, they are plastic strips that fit on the front facing edge of the door glass, and nest in the vent window frame channel.

Aftermarket Door Glass Slides

  1. I found them at JustMopars. Pricey at $75 each, but couldn't find them anywhere else. JustMopars calls them Vent Frame Division Bar Liners. The JustMopars guy, Fran Bishop, said this product is licensed by Mopar, and made for JustMopars. He also mentioned the original plastic strip was clear in ‘67 and black after that. The product he sells is black.

  2. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe, ’67 Conv.

  3. They came with the new 2 piece sliders and pins that go through the glass. Basically that is the seal for the front edge track of the glass and are flocked.

  4. Gerald Drury

  1. The shape is a little different as well but doesn't matter as it isn't seen.

  2. http://www.mrmopar.com/1967Barracuda/800/2008-06-05_02.jpg

Window Alignment

  1. Be patient:
    - Align the door!!!!
    - put the vent frame together without the glass in it , ie: get the upper screw in tight
    - slide the frame in, making sure that the frame catches the above 3 points.
    - push the frame in as much as you can
    - start tapping it in with the hammer
    - shut the door, check the frame alignment with the weatherstripping, repeat until the door shuts good
    - put the vent window in, make sure it opens and closes correctly
    - if your lucky, it will be fine, if not, keep adjusting the frame to door alignment and the vent glass to            

  2.   frame alignment
    - when you get it close, the bolts that hold the leading edge of the frame can be used to fine tune
    - tighten it up

’67 Window Alignment

  1. Next task is to align the window. Read through the adjustment instructions in the FSM. Figure out how the windows should mate with the roof rail weatherstrip.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

  1. I used the adjustment procedures in the Factory Service Manual.

  2. Jim Conner - ’68

’68 Window Alignment

  1. If your quarter window is too far inboard, the top of the glass needs to be tipped out a little. Both can be adjusted by working with the front window channel until the door glass seals tightly against the leading edge of the quarter window. As you are doing this, keep an eye on the top of the glass to be sure that a good seal is maintained against the top weatherstrip. Don't be afraid to move the door glass inboard a little if necessary. You also need to check the vertical alignment between the windows. Rotate the quarter window if this is off. Expect to do some fiddling to get everything just right and don't forget to roll each window up and down a couple of times to check for smooth operation. It's also a real good idea to run a hose around the windows to check for leaks before you replace the door panels.

  2. You'll use a stud at the end of the vent window frame to tilt the whole assembly to the front or back to align the vent window with the A-pillar.

  3. At the very front corner of the vent window, this slot allows vertical placement of the window frame. Leave the bolt a little loose for now and lower the window into the door watching out for the regulator on the way down.

  4. A slotted tab supports the back half of the vent window frame. You'll loosen the bolt through this access hole in the inner door frame so you can adjust the rotation, and rise and fall of the vent window.

  5. Side-to-side and fore-and-aft placement of the bottom of the front window channel is set by accessing this stud through a hole in the bottom of the door. You'll use this mostly to tip the top of the glass in or out.

  6. You'll need to unbolt the regulator to slide the roller onto the window channel. Roll the window all the way up when you are done.

  7. With the window up, install the rear channel. The two bolts on either end of this channel allow you to move the glass side to side and tip the top in or out. Before you begin adjusting your windows it is critical that the door first be properly aligned and that any new weatherstripping is in place.

  8. Start your adjustments by setting both the angle and the height of the vent window to the A-pillar. The door window should now match up pretty close to the top weatherstrip but it's possible that you may need to slightly rotate the entire assembly. Next, adjust the rear channel so the top edge of the glass is even, front to back, with the weatherstrip. Set how tight the window fits against the weatherstripping by tipping the top of the window in or out. You can check this by closing the door on a new dollar bill. You've got it right when the bill will pull out but not easily.

  9. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

Door Window Felt

  1. Felt pieces fit over the front edge of the window. They may fall apart when you disassemble the window from the door for painting. The guide pieces will be still okay.

  2. Stephen Parker - ’67 Conv.

  1. The window felts I carry are great reproductions with the proper clips and original factory design, not the bending rubber against the window where someone used a Chevy felt and made it fit. Those were fine when nothing better was available but the ones I carry are excellent.

    I encourage you to use the vender of your choice but I would always like to have your business. 
    Frank Filicicchia (Famous Frank) - ‘67 Conv
    (770) 863-1345

Door Window Moulding (inside)

  1. Weatherstripping / metal runs next to the headliner by the doors (that’s the area that the windows seal against when rolled up). You can in fact install the windows first, but you wouldn't be able to adjust them.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Vent Window Gasket

  1. The vent window gasket is supposed to meet the door with the flaps on the gasket along the lower edge fit over the lip of the door.

  2. Paul

Quarter Window Assembly

’67 Removal

  1. The FSM may not be much help; You may have to do things by trial and error. 

  2. First step is to remove the glass, which is held by 2 bolts. 

  3. Then unbolted the regulator from the inner door metal. 

  4. The regulator could only be removed by partially disassembling it inside the door! 

  5. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

’68 Removal

  1. You'll have a regulator, the rear and front run channels, three rollers (one is bolted to the other side of the frame), and the quarter glass.

  2. Do not attempt to remove the glass from its holder. If your glass is bad, you'll be replacing the whole assembly.

  3. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe


  1. Broken guide rollers are not uncommon. New ones are available from YearOne.

  2. Use high-temperature wheel bearing grease or white lithium on the roller guides, the channel edges, and the regulator pivot points.

  3. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

’68 Installation

  1. Insert the single roller into slot number one and slide it to the rear. Now unbolt the regulator and move it so you can insert the regulator roller into the same slot. With that done, insert the lower regulator roller into slot number two. Note the fixed guide roller just above this slot. You'll be slipping the forward run channel into it during the next step. Lastly, slide the third regulator roller into the run channel that's welded to the body and rebolt the regulator in place.

  2. The front window channel is next. Slide the roller guide into slot number three and then lower the window. Now take the channel and slide it through the fixed roller guide and into the one you just placed in slot number three. There is a tab in the channel between the rollers—it will later bolt to a slot on a bracket that will allow the bottom of the window to be moved side to side.

  3. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

  1. The stud at the top of the track goes into this slotted hole. You'll use the small nut and stud to move the channel in or out to adjust the front of the window.

  2. The rear window channel is next. You'll need to roll the window up until you can see the single roller in this hole. Slide the channel over the roller and line up the two adjusting studs; spin on their nuts and tighten in place. These studs are for the side-to-side adjustment of the rear of the window.

  3. With the window still in the up position, bolt in this brace and attach the tab mentioned earlier at the bottom of the front run channel. The slotted hole in the brace allows side-to-side adjustment of the bottom of this channel.

  4. There is a window-up stop at each end but these can only be roughed in until the door glass and all of the weatherstripping is in place.

’68 Adjustment

  1. Here are the different adjustment points for a '68 quarter window. Most other cars will be similar.

  2. - Points A and B allow you to move the front run channel side to side, which will adjust the leading edge

  3.   of the window left or right if you move them in the same direction or tip the top of the window in or out  

  4.   if you move them opposite one another.

  5. - Point B will have a greater tipping effect.

  6. - Points C and D work basically the same for the rear channel. The regulator pivots at point E, so moving 

  7.   the bolts at F will rock the window front to back. Because the pivot point is near the front, this 

  8.   effectively allows you to raise or lower the rear corner of the glass.

  9. - Points G and H (not installed yet) are the window-up stops that prevent over-raising the window.

  10. John Balow - ‘68 Coupe

  1. The two lower regulator bolts are in slotted holes that will allow you to rotate the glass front to back.

Window Storage

  1. There are different ways to safely store fastback rear and front windows. One way is to make and store it crated it up. It will keep it safe from breakage and takes less storage room.

  2. Mike Jarvie - ‘68 FB

  3. Here is a box I made for the front windshield. I stored it on it’s side, not flat as shown.

  4. Angel Garrido - ’69 FB

  5. I would also recommend storing them on end, not flat. Less chance for glass to change shape. I have been told that can happen.

  6. Dr. Bob Breed - ‘67

  7. Wrap them in moving blankets (buy at Harbor-Freight) and store them under your bed.

  8. Phil Saran

  9. Up in the rafters of the garage would keep them out of the way, but it could be ticklish getting them up there (or back down).

  10. Like a lot of car parts, they are really a pain to deal with off the car. I try to keep parts on the car for this reason.

  11. Max Heim - ‘67 FB

1969 ‘Cuda Window Restoration

The 1969 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback Rear Windows came in 3 shades.


What People Do:

Front window (FB)

Rear Window (FB)

  1. Window Moulding

  2.    Removal

Windshield Gasket


Rear Window Remove

Rear Window Install

Window Clips

window vent

Quarter Window

Window Storage


  1. Originally the windshield trim on a ‘67 is different from that of ‘68 and ‘69's.

  1. Original glass has a date code and has a PPG Chrysler logo with date code with tint or no tint code in bottom corner.

During Restoration What do People Do:

  1. They replace the glass with tinted ones (Solar grey for the sides and rear, solex green for the windshield).