General Information

Trim Work Repair and Restoration Business

1. The Trim Master is Dana. He's doing a few little things on the side now and then. His email address is pnwcudaman@gmail.com.
   

2. 
   

3. As an alternative, the main focus of my shop is custom powder coating (Mopar parts restorations and custom one-offs) but Dana's been instrumental in helping me get up to speed on trim resto too. I don't do it full time by any means -- mostly to fill the void in the industry since so many of the good ones are now out of business -- but if you aren't in a hurry, shoot me a few pictures of the parts with close ups of the nastiness and I'll get back to you. My shop's in northwest Tennessee and I ship stuff all over the world.  
   

4. 
   

5. Leanna the CudaChick -- Phoenix Specialty Coatings
   

6. Owner/Operator
   

7. PHOENIX SPECIALTY COATINGS
   

8. Where Your Parts Are Reborn
   

9. 731-613-9192 (10-9 Central time)
   

10. PhoenixSpecialtyCoatings.com
    

11. 
    

12. 
    

13. AllTrim restores front end trim. They’ll work on the headlight bezels and grille surrounds. Make sure rechroming is specified in the part of the work order. If not you may notice pitting on the pot metal ring that encircles the headlight. You won’t notice unless you get right up to the headlight.
    

14. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
    

15. 
    

Paint Remover

1. Anyone know of some good paint remover for chrome and aluminum trim?
   

2. 
   

3. I have tried using 0000 steel wool. But there are some areas that a just real stubberin’.
   

4. Robin Findlay
   

5. 
   

6. There a couple of ways to do this;
   

7. One would be taking the parts and boiling them with soup, of course if the parts are large that is out.
   

8. After they have been heated for a while the paint starts to soften, then you need to pick it out, brush it or scrub it. It work okay, but does take some time
   

9.  
   

10. Two would be a chemical stripper, I have used one called Low Odor Aircraft Remover by Klean-Strip. This stuff is thick and supposed to be made for aluminum. If you go this route, be sure to test it first on a small spot of the metal. This stripper is available at my local parts stores, here in Ohio.
    

11. Eric Valentin - ‘69 B5 408 Fastback
    

12. 
    

13. Eastwood has an anodize remover for aluminum parts and fittings.
    

14.  
    

15. When doing trim resto I usually have to enlist some Easy Off oven cleaner to get rid of the old anodizing. It works VERY well on the paint overspray too. If you've never used lye before, then call me (or do a little research on the 'net first) -- I've got a few tricks to share that'll speed up the process and not ruin the parts.
    

16. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
    

17. 
    

18. I have used the Easy Off, on this part and on other trim I have redone. the Easy Off usually gets a lot of it off, and that which remains in flat spot can be sanded off,( the alu parts) I am having a problem with small spots in corners and inner 90 deg. bends.
    

How to Polish Stainless Steel Trim

1. Here's my technique, learned from the body and paint resto shop that did the work on my fastback.
   

2. Start out with a non-essential or extra piece for practice. I have been using basically the same process.
   

Anodizing:

1. With aluminum pieces you have to remove the anodizing on the surface. I use Easy Off oven cleaner sprayed on and left for about 15 minutes then thoroughly rinsed off with water. You will be able to see any anodized patches left that need further treatment if any. Stainless doesn't need this.
   

Hammering Out Problem:

1. For dent / ding removal I put a piece of smooth steel (flat or contoured) behind the marred surface - steel bar, hammer head, body working tool, and gently tapping with a small hammer on the surface until the mar is removed. I then gently tap around the ding and work in towards the center in a circular pattern. Gently is the key - it takes time. Once the surface is flat again it is going to look lousy with hammer marks and mars and maybe a residual line or mark from the previous dent/ding even though it is flat. The other key thing to keep in mind is when you are removing a ding or dent from an aluminum or stainless surface and then prepping the surface for polishing, it is going to look like you are ruining the piece. You're not. The process just looks ugly at the start and gets progressively better and better looking.
   

Sanding the Areas:

1. Once the previously damaged surface is flat, I lightly sand and then polish it out. Progressive sanding is done with finer and finer sandpaper, then polishing. Start with 320 grit (now it really looks like the piece is being ruined) to remove the scratches, then go to 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1500. , then 400 grit, then 600 grit, then 800 grit, then 1000 grit and finally 1500 grit. Remember, when you start with the 320 grit sandpaper you think the piece is going to be ruined, but by following this procedure  your stainless trim pieces will end up looking like chrome. The main caveat: take your time. It is a slow process.
   

Polishing:

1. By this point the surface is nice and shiny. I do a final polish with a buffing wheel and green jewelers polishing compound. Mount a double width polishing wheel on your bench grinder (I used two mounted side by side). Why? It lessens the possibility of the wheel grabbing the piece out of your hands and throwing it against the wall.
   

2. 
   

3. Use green jewelers polish (you can get it from a jewelers supply house) on the double polishing wheel and polish out the piece.
   

Hand Rubbing:

1. Lastly use Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish and a soft rag to finish. Use mother's Mag and Aluminum polish hand rubbed out with a soft rag and buffed with a soft rag. The final result looks like it has been chrome plated. However since the anodizing has been removed it will "mist" over time if left exposed to air so I wax the surface with car wax. It has worked for me so far.
   

2. Steve Toth
   

Sanding Wheel

1. It was just a process of time in front of the polishing wheel. Get a 3/4 hp polisher with a variable speed switch to slow down the buff ing wheels for plastic polishing. 2 buffing pads are good, but 4 are better for each grid. Welders gauntlet gloves are handy also cause the heat does build up to a point when you might have trouble hanging on to the piece. Also...set the buffer on a stand, i.e. freestanding on a pedestal the same size as the buffer base, about waist high, away from benches and walls so that when your working the pieces (first pass at 12 0clock, 2nd at 3 0clock, 3rd at 6 o'clock and 4th at 9 o'clock), you'll have room to move unobstructed,the metal in all directions. Remember the wheels are spinning toward you so on some pieces it's easier to control the process if the piece is under the wheel. The reason for rotation is to remove any and all edges (scratches).
   

2. 
   

3. I also bought the sanding wheel that expands and grab's the abrasive belt (various grits)..for the rough, starting phase instead of hand sanding the deep scratches and gouges out of the metal. You'll also need different wheels for the different grades of polish..ie you don't want to start with a course grit and then use that wheel for the rouge finish cause it will just keep scratching the finish, the bigger the wheel the less heat, but the more HP from the motor is required....the best place for wheels was Granger's, (also the 3/4 hp buffer ), but EASTWOOD had the better array of buffing compounds. Order 2 of each grade, cause they go fast when you finally get the hang of what your doing.
   

1. Everything Eastwood sells, you can buy somewhere else cheaper under its original manufacturer's label.
   

2. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
   

1. I would suggest though to get the buffer to a comfortable height for your stature. Being bent over for a long period while you work on trim can be fatiguing and frustrating even if sitting.
   

2. David Martin
   

Grille Trim

Grill Surrounds

1. Each year is different.
   

2. 
   

3. ‘67 and ‘68 have the same shape grills (interchangeable), with very similar surrounds, but the structure and materials are different. Where they meet in the middle it looks like an X. In ‘67/’68 the grill inserts "float" -- you can reach in behind them to access the hood release. You can also distinguish the ‘67 and ‘68 by the rear grill supports.
   

4. 
   

5. The ’67 grill is all metal. (survived better & more easily repairable, common)
   

6. 
   

7. 

   
   

8. 
   

9. The ’68 grill is metal & plastic.
   

10. 
    

11. The ’69 grill is plastic. (almost always cracked, is the rarest)
    

12. 
    

13. ‘69 is a completely different shape -- where they meet in the middle it looks
    

14. like a Y. The grill mesh on the ‘69 fills the entire opening. The hood release is under the car. Grilles for a ‘69 are considered some of the rarest unobtainium in the Barracuda world.
    

15. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback, ’67 Conv.
    

’67 Grill Restoration

1. You can restore a ‘67 grills using rivets and a tubular rivet setting tool from an industrial distributor called Spaenaur located in Kitchener, On Canada.
   

2. Rivets are set by hand using a vise as an anvil. No problem. Here is a link to the page.
   

3. http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionE/E13.pdf - 53.0kb
   

4. Jacques Bouchard - ‘67 Barracuda Coupe
   

5. 
   

6. The rivets can be purchased here http://www.rivetsonline.com
   

7. 
   

8. A tool I recommend and use to re-install the rivets can purchased here
   

9. http://tubularrivetclincher.yolasite.com
   

10. 
    

11. That tool is very inexpensive and works well for the grills and ashtrays.
    

12. Gerald Drury
    

1. I found the "right" hardware to reassemble ‘Cuda grilles at Fastenal.  It's not cheap -- but it fits and it looks good.
   

2. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
   

1. A pair of ‘67 grilles, restored, polished and painted, go for $700 plus shipping.
   

’69 Grill Restoration

1. The inner trim ring can be removed. Drill out the semi-tubular rivets. The trim ring at the back of the grill surround (in front of the egg crate grill can be removed. If the surround it busted, transfer the grill to a new one. There are plastic rivets of some sort.
   

2. 
   

3. Concerning the rivets that hold most of it together, use 1/8 tubler rivets in 1/8th and 1/4 length. Most companies would not deal with me for small qualities. So I found a company that would sell me $70 worth so I had to get 4000 of each to get the order.
   

4. 
   

5. Buy the Tubular Rivet Clincher Tool. This tool is used to restore vintage and antique toys. The tool is easy to use it just like a clamp just twist them into place. The overall look is great, and I am very happy with them.
   

6. 
   

7. You can get the rivets much cheaper and in smaller quantities from rivetsonline.com. Now that you have the tool it can be used in many more locations on your car should you need it. I have tried to get others to look at them and believe the holding power far exceeds pop-rivets.
   

8. Gerald Drury
   

1. Leanna recommended Fastenal as a rivet source.
   

2. 
   

3. My '68 FB rivets in the aluminum grill were steel and a real PITA to get out (read as dremel grinding). I'm using aluminum rivets as replacements.
   

4. 
   

5. I'm just using a hand pop rivet tool. I also found some bevel headed machine screws (6-32 x 1-1/2 ??) at Fastenal to replace the insert mounting screws since several of mine were broken off. Once the pieces are riveted together, the bevel head screws are clamped in place and will resist rotating like the original mounting screws.
   

6. Steve Toth
   

7. 
   

8. To finish, remove anodizing, polish, re-anodize or clear coat. 
   

’69 Grill Plastic Restoration

1. For the surround, use a pencil-type soldering iron to the cracks to fuse the plastic back together, then sand it down and fill in with PC-7, then sand smooth. PC7 can be used on the surrounds or other epoxies are available.
   

2. Craig Tassin - ‘69 Cuda
   

3. 
   

4. To repair the cracked corners use a plastic repair kit from Auto Zone or one of the other stores. It is a smelly putty like paste, that bonds and also fills cracks like body putty. Find the correct stuff and take your time. I also used it on the back surface with some fiberglass to reinforce the area. When dry sand everything as close as possible to maintain the profile and contours, then shoot it with some spray paint.
   

5. Eric Valentin - ‘69 FB
   

6. 
   

Grill Screws

1. The grill hex head screws are 8x32. They are usually very rusty and getting off the nuts involves a torch. Next will be a couple hours of cleaning up the studs in the chrome frame. Wire-wheel them and bathed them in WD40.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

1. Bevel headed machine screws (6-32 x 1-1/2 ??) at Fastenal can replace the insert mounting screws any are broken off. Once the pieces are riveted together, the bevel head screws are clamped in place and will resist rotating like the original mounting screws.
   

2. Steve Toth
   

3. 
   

4. For studs (the bolts that hold the grill to the front nose) use #6 or could be #8 fine screws and brazed them into the holes left by the old bolts. Brazing is another form of wielding, the temp is not as hot as welding so it dose not destroy the thin frame metal. On a down side it is not as strong as welding, but there is not that much force put on them.
   

Grille to Header Screws

1. The finish could be also be Zinc (yellow) dichromate & there is no gimlet point on the screw.
   

2. Lower bolts thread into pinch weld insert on support bracket.
   

3. 
   

Grill Rivets

1. For the '68 FB, the rivets in the aluminum grill were steel. They are a real PITA to get out. Use a Dremel for grinding off. Consider using aluminum rivets as replacements.
   

Aftermarket Grills

1. Classic Industries has the '67 and '68 grilles.
   

2. Grilles for a ‘69 are considered some of the rarest unobtainium in the Barracuda world.
   

3. Josh Walton - ’68 Conv.
   

4. 
   

5. Surrounds: 
   

6. http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/MA2467.html 
   

7. Screen Inserts: 
   

8. http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/MA1156.html 
   

9. Inner Trim: 
   

10. http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/MA1157.html 
    

11. Outer Trim: 
    

12. http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/parts/MA4738.html 
    

13. 
    

14. And coming soon, a complete grill assembly.  # RM4134. Price is $1727.99. a pair
    

15. Josh Walton - ’68 Conv.
    

16. 
    

17. Classic Industries gets these parts from PG Classics. B/E & A also gets these parts from PG Classics.
    

18. Ron Evan - ‘67 Coupe
    

Grille Hybrid

1. Some ‘69 owners put ‘67 or ‘68 grills on their cars. It's hard to do that, since you would also need the matching nose piece and hood. Not to mention finding a good ‘67 or ‘68 grill set with bezels and hood inserts. But it has definitely been done more than once, judging from the number of "hybrids" one sees in ads.
   

2. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. You gotta change out the header panel to put in ‘68 grilles. Then you gotta change the hood to match the header panel.
   

5. 
   

Painting Grille

1. The inner surround should be argent silver which is available at your local Chrysler dealer ($14 a can). This is the same color that is on the bottom of the dash bezel and the trunk trim. The grilles from the '69s are a matte black.
   

2. Mike Jarvie
   

3. 
   

4. If you want black any semi-Gloss is good used on S cars and Cuda'. Otherwise Argent Silver is still available from Mopar or Totally Auto. The HL trim rings should be argent as well.
   

5. 
   

6. Egg crate grille was black for S cars and cuda'. Silver argent for all others. S and ‘Cuda also had the front edge of the egg crate as natural. You can spray black from the backside or do like me and just sand the front edge back down with emery cloth after spraying black.
   

7. Gerald Drury
   

Anodizing Trim Rings

1. You can anodize the trim rings. For Anodized aluminum, you have to strip the anodize first then you can polish them up. Red Devil lye works best to remove the old anodizing. Most shops can strip and refinish.
   

2. 
   

3. It might be cheaper to purchase the reproduction versions at $135 a pair.
   

4. Don't get the PGClassic ones they are of poor quality in the fitment. there are fitment problems with PG Classic grilles, particularly when they buy the separate grille parts, rather than the assembled grilles.
   

5. Gerald Drury
   

6. 
   

7. Some people have had trouble communicating with PG Classic over the phone. If that happens, you can call Mike Ross, owner of B, E & A Restoration Parts. Mike is the main seller of PG Classic parts in the US.
   

8. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
   

9. 
   

10. Another techniques is to strip it with sandpaper first and work my way up to super smooth paper, then a buffing wheel. Generously soak with Easy Off oven cleaner and let sit for 10-15 minute. Rinse thoroughly and dry.
    

11. 320 grit sandpaper
    

12. 400 grit "
    

13. 600 grit "
    

14. 800 grit "
    

15. 1500 grit "
    

16. Rag hand polish with Mother's Aluminum & Mag Polish It'll look like chrome.
    

17. Steve Toth
    

1. Remember, since the trim is riveted to the surround, you must drill the rivets out and disassemble them. There is a tool (The Rivet Tool) and appropriate rivets available to re-assemble them. 
   

2. Gerald Drury
   

Grille Installation

1. Trying to get all the studs inserted in the header panel holes provides a couple of challenges, but nothing too bad. There also isn't much room on the back side of the header panel for tightening the nuts, but it's not an ordeal.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Tail Panel Trim

1. They fasten to the trunk lid. They were not originally textured.
   

Tail Panel Trim Makers

1. They are reproduced by Metro Parts Company and sold by many others.
   

2.  http://www.buymetroparts.com/item/a-body-barracuda-67-69/1967-barracuda-deck-lid-moldin/lid=10723270
   

3. I've looked for a decent original lower trim piece for years and haven't found one.
   

1967 Tail Panel Trim Color

1. There are several colors for the rear wide trim on a notchback.
   

2. One is black, the other is chrome, or argent silver. The ‘67 trunk panel had a texture etched into the metal where it was painted Argent.
   

3. Robin Findlay
   

4. 
   

5. You could order them black with the FS package.  
   

6. Robert Wiffen - ‘67-440 Fastback
   

1968 Tail Panel Trim Color

1. I want to paint my tail trim panels the factory color. I believe the factory color for the area between the chrome trim is argent silver. I have read Krylon Dull Aluminum can be used for this purpose. ‘68 trunk panels had no texture in the Argent area.
   

2. 
   

3. In the Mopar Collector's Guide they have advertisements for "textured argent in a can!". The company is Totally Auto. Herb's Parts appears to also sell paint; but maybe just interior paint.
   

4. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

5. 
   

6. Mine were not originally textured, but I textured them. I let them dry for about 3 days or so. I then masked off the textured portion (easy release masking tape recommendation of Rob Robinson) to paint the black stripes. I used satin Rustoleum for that. Some black overspray or wicking got through the tape onto the texture. I wanted to get it off so I used some mineral spirits. The mineral spirits took part of the dull, rough top layer of the Krylon dull aluminum off.  What was left was a semi-gloss finish, somewhat darker, and Fantastic! It looks like a factory finish. You might want to try this procedure, it worked for me. I definitely would not recommend rubbing the aluminum finish with anything but the mineral spirits.
   

7. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

8. 
   

9. I painted the trunk trim on my ‘68. The original finish had no texture at all. I masked it off, and painted with an old can of Corvette rally wheel paint. I let it dry and painted over it with dull aluminum. It looks great! O'Reilleys carries a Ford silver argent. Dealerships may carry the silver argent.
   

10. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

11. 
    

12. The center molding paint is Dupli-Color gray engine primer -- the consensus here (friends, neighbors, UPS lady, and me) was that the primer color looked better than any of the final colors I tried.  The darker gray looked good with the dark blue paint.  So now I'm looking for a finish paint of the same color. Other colors we looked at were polished, black, Krylon 1403 dull aluminum (argent silver substitute), and rust-oleum 7581 light machine gray.
    

13. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
    

14. 
    

15. Layson's makes reproduction panels (welded stainless ones). I had to paint the sliver part back to the original Krylon Dull Aluminum since the paint on them is too dark.
    

16. Rob Robinson
    

Tail Panel Polished Part

1. The polished part of the trunk panel, or tail panel, is dull when dry. It looks nice and shiny when wet, with water or mineral spirits. I've cleaned it with Mothers, Blue magic, and polishing compound. I, also used NEVR-DULL.  Can you clear coat the polished part of the panel or is there something else to put on to retain the finish?
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

3. 
   

4. It’s because it’s anodized, it’ll look dull when dry. What I did was polish off the anodizing it’s shiny now but more upkeep. I use NEVR-DULL, it’s how I maintain my trim now.
   

5. Daty Rogers
   

6. 
   

7. NEVR-DULL is the stuff in the blue can, kind of a cotton/cloth material that turns oxidation black on the metal. On my ‘67 the taillight pieces are darker that the center panel, most i've seen are the same. 2 different metals.
   

8. Robert Wiffen - ‘67-440 Fastback
   

9. 
   

10. The stuff is NEVR-DULL. You can still get it for about 9 bucks on eBay.
    

11. It seems strange to me that they put an anodized finish that is supposed to match a chrome finish (tailights).
    

12. 
    

13. It’s potmetal and chrome on the lights, on the trim which is why I polished mine. It just looked better, never dull in in a blue can, it’s hard to find.
    

14. Daty Rogers
    

1. Trunk Panel Moulding
   

2. The aluminum trim was "anodized" at the factory. This is a clear coating of aluminum oxide. Eventually, this turns into a dull coating of aluminum oxide.
   

‘67 Trunk Molding

1. Mopar made the uppers and lowers mouldings different from the factory. That difference is small.
   

‘67 Trunk Molding Reproduction

1. Metro Parts is a company that made some reproduction parts for a while. I am not sure if they are still in business. On their ‘67 trim, they made the upper and the lower trim the same. They are interchangeable. The problem with that is that Ma Mopar didn't make them that way. That  difference will cause the moulding to not line up 100%. They are still a heck of a lot simpler solution than trying to locate (which is a problem in an of itself) and fix (a whole new set of issues) an original set.
   

2. 
   

3. Dana Price (our resident trim-master) did a comparison of them vs original and documented it on the BOG.
   

4. Jonathan Reck
   

1. Trunk Panel Moulding Clips
   

2. I need a set of molding clips for the lower trunk panel. They are the ones with two studs. Several of the studs broke on removal. I would drill out the broken studs and epoxy screws in there, but I had to do that on the front grilles and it is terribly time consuming.
   

3. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

4. 
   

5. Try R/T Specialties.
   

6. http://www.rtspecialties.net/
   

7. Nathan Nuttall - ‘67 Fastback
   

8. 
   

9. Here's another place. Good stock, good prices, and good people. If you don't see anything in their online catalog, give them a call -- they go out of their way to try to find something that will work.  
   

10. http://www.gotautobodyclips.com/
    

11. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
    

1. Layson’s wants 100 bucks just for the clips.
   

Trunk Trim Retainers

1. Classic Industries has a lot of parts for our cars.
   

2. http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/a-body-barracuda-1964-69/parts/?q=weatherstrip
   

3. Layson’s Restoration
   

4. http://www.laysons.com/
   

5. Rob Robinson
   

6. 
   

7. R/T Specialties. If you can't find them on their site, try calling the owner, because he is very knowledgeable about where to get fasteners.
   

8. Ron Evans - ‘67 Notchbacks
   

Repairing Trim Panel

Trim Panel Repairing Shop

1. If your trim is dented and bent to some degree, in So Cal. I found two places that were able to straighten and polish them. But beware that in doing so they will have to remove the anodizing. They came out looking just about like new.  Look for a shop that does metal polishing and or anodizing. It won't be cheap but it will be nice again.
   

2. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

DIY Repairing Trim Panel

1. You can repair damaged aluminum or stainless pieces after the anodizing is removed with Easy Off.
   

2. 
   

3. The aluminum trim eventually turns into a dull coating of aluminum oxide. Restorers take it off with lye (oven cleaner) so they can polish the bare aluminum (aluminum oxide is much harder than "pure" aluminum). But if you leave polished aluminum bare, exposure to air will turn the surface into aluminum oxide again (basically, aluminum "rust") -- it will get dull. So yes, most people try to keep it covered with a wax.
   

4. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
   

5. 
   

6. FWIW: A sanding/polishing progression that has worked fine for me on aluminum and stainless steel trim - AFTER you remove any anodizing with Easy Off oven cleaner - is 320 (for badly scratched/pitted pieces), 400, 600, 800, 1000, buffing wheel with green jewelers rouge, then Mothers Aluminum & Mag Polish on a soft cloth
   

7. Steve
   

8. 
   

9. That's very close to what I do here too with the exceptions being that after necessary files. I usually start with 220 if it's really rough, and then add in 1500, 2000 and 2500 grits prior to hitting the buffer. I use no Mother's or other liquid polishes ever (per our TrimMaster Dana, who's been instrumental the last couple years in getting me up to speed on trim stuff) -- just buffing compounds tailored to each type of metal.  It seems to be working out okay.
   

10. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
    

11. 
    

12. The head light covers have has stripping and sanded with 600 and 1500 wet paper. I still have 2000, 3200 and polish to go.
    

13. Robin Findlay
    

14. 
    

15. Whatever grit or file I start with is determined by how deep the defects are and how much work the part in question needs -- everything is a case-by-case basis, and it's about impossible to "teach it" over the internet (even with pictures).
    

16. 
    

17. As far as tight corners go, you can use the smaller round or tapered buffs on your drill or Dremel. The buffer I've got is a 1 3/4 hp. commercial model using 10" buffs whereas most DIY’rs have a converted bench grinder. Getting into smaller areas with it can be carefully done but it does take some practice (and can be dangerous if you catch an edge).
    

18. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
    

19. 
    

20. Speaking of avoiding catching on the edges - if you decide to use a buffing wheel to polish trim pieces, use either a double wide wheel or two regular wheels together, mounted side-by-side on the bench arbor. This will help prevent the wheel from grabbing the piece out of your hands and bending it around whatever happens to be in the area.
    

21. Steve
    

Trim Oxidation Prevention

1. There are a couple of ways to keep it from oxidizing. One is to keep it waxed. The other is to clear coat it. In any case,  you do have to put something on it to keep it from oxidizing again.
   

2. JL
   

3. 
   

4. My paint guy sprayed my polished aluminum trim with clear-coat when he was painting the rest of the car. That should stop the trim from re-oxidizing,
   

5. Darwin
   

Prep & Polishing Trim

1. Fit all the metal trim in its copper state before final nickel and chrome is done. This is the last time you will be able to correct any fit problems. When tweaking moldings always use a wide blade plastic stick or spreader. Never use metal tools as this will damage them.
   

2. 
   

3. Some trim such as this Stainless Steel molding came with pot metal studs that accepted thread cutting nuts, which often slip when tightened. Using the proper thread cutting die you can change them over in to a regular threaded nut to avoid snapping off the studs during assembly if they were too tight and also avoid a loose molding when the thread cutting nuts have already cut too many grooves on the stud.
   

4. 
   

5. When choosing the correct rubber mallet remember "Durometer" stands for the hardness of the rubber.
   

6. 
   

7. When buffing small and or larger stainless trim parts, bolt or screw the item to use various sizes of wood to eliminate holding the actual part and tweaking it. Stainless or plated bolts can have a nice satin finish on them by chucking them up in a drill and running them over a grey fine scuff pad.
   

Prep Using Sander

1. Mirka BaseCut 6" Grip Discs Grade 320 (50 Discs) - 22-622-320
   

2. $12.50  + 10 SH  EBAY  autobodytoolmart
   

Attaching Tail Panel Trim

1. You must align the Tail Panel Trim. Use serrated washer nuts and cranked down pretty hard with a nut driver.    
   

2. 
   

3. There is a fastener that is used. The large fastener is the original. The small fastener is the one that comes with the reproduced trim -- it is not very strong. I have also seen original trim with the smaller size fastener. I used the large rectangular fastener shown in the middle, cut down using Wiss sheet metal shears and then straightened using pliers. It is steel, but isn't very hard.  I first tried using screws and washers, but couldn't find a screw head low enough to clear the inside ridge of the molding. Washers would have been a better choice because they are harder. Next time I'm going to try using the large original-type fasteners (they are reproduced).
   

4. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
   

Stainless Drip Rail Moulding

1. The drip rail moulding is located above the door on the roof.
   

Drip Rail Removal

1. Grasp trim at rear with both hands. Fingers at top pushing down, thumbs underneath grabbing lip and pulling out. Work you way forward.
   

2. Alan
   

Restoring Drip Rail Moulding

1. Finish straightening the stainless trim. Pound out the dings, Now shine it up. Same old process: 60 grit, 150 grit, 600 grit, steel wool, rough wheel, buffing wheel, rouge wheel.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Stainless Rail Moulding (Front)

1. Front trim on the body next to window (not window trim) is stuck to body with adhesive pieces.
   

Trim Rivets

1. When I put the aluminum cover and pot metal ring covers back together should I use standard pop rivets or try and get the original style auto rivets ?
   

2.  
   

3. I used Aluminum rivets on mine, the only two types of rivets I have readily available to me are Aluminum and stainless. I'm afraid the stainless would damage the Aluminum of the grill during the riveting process, the aluminum rivets are much softer and have plenty of strength for the application. I definitely am not worried about electrolysis since the grill pieces are Aluminum anyway.
   

4. Michael Mosley - ’68 Cuda
   

5. 
   

6. Steel rivets are just going to rust later.
   

7. 
   

8. Use aluminum rivets on my grills, etc. - reason:  when I disassembled the grills to replace broken off studs, the steel rivets from the factory were a pita to get out. I had to grind off the heads with a Dremel and went through one grinding stone for each side. Also, isn't there an electrolysis issue (as well as the rust issue like Leanna mentioned) with steel and aluminum? 
   

9. Steve Toth
   

1. Use a rivets and a tubular rivet setting tool from an industrial distributor called Spaenaur located in Kitchener, On Canada. Rivets are set by hand using a vise as an anvil. No problem. Here is a link to the page.
   

2. http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionE/E13.pdf - 53.0kb
   

3. Jacques Bouchard - ‘67 Barracuda Coupe
   

4. 
   

5. The rivets can be purchased here http://www.rivetsonline.com
   

6. 
   

7. A tool I recommend and use to re-install the rivets can purchased here
   

8. http://tubularrivetclincher.yolasite.com
   

9. 
   

10. That tool is very inexpensive and works well for the grills and ashtrays.
    

11. Gerald Drury
    

Side Rocker Trim

1. There are no side rocker trim on ‘69's so they need full wheel opening trim. 67's and 68's with side rocker trim would use short wheel opening trim.
   

2. Richard Walker
   

Weatherstriping

1. National Parts
   

2. The link for national parts depot for the weatherstriping is:
   

3. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mopar_windowfelt_kits_replacement_style_inner_and-171179-90201.html
   

4.  
   

5. They have quite a bit of mopar stuff.
   

6. Paul M
   

Trunk Seal (Rubber parts)

1. There seems to be various shapes and configurations for the cross-section of these trunk seals. Mine had a simple flat rectangular seal which obviously wasn't right - most of the rust in the car was inside the trunk.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68
   

Aftermarket Trunk Seal (Rubber parts)

1. There are at least 2 very good companies, Steele Rubber and Metro Softseal, both made in USA. A guy in San Jose CA is a Soft Seal Dealer, the business is called the Goat Farm. He sells GTO stuff, but he beat Year One's prices. He also sells at Pomona Swap Meet, but my stuff he just had drop shipped
   

2. from Soft Seal.
   

3. Phil Saran
   

4. 
   

5. The Classic trunk seal is a generic for a, b, and e-body trunks. Trunk seals from Classic Industries are only $18.99 -- Classic lists OER as the vendor.
   

6. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
   

Trunk Seal (Rubber parts) Installation

1. Install the trunk weather stripping. Information from the email list or Softseal on the proper orientation is limited. It takes a fair amount of time; since there aren't any clips. Hold the weatherstripping in place while the adhesive drys.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Bumper

Aftermarket Bumpers

1. Got my bumper from Tri-City.
   

2. Robin Findlay - ‘67 ‘Cuda 273 commando
   

Bumper Braces

1. Many people choose not to use the side bumper braces because they do more harm than good. If the the bumper gets pushed in even a little (or somebody stands on it), the brace will dent the fender/quarter panel. You can fill the bumper hole with the bumper bolt. The holes in the fender/quarters hardly show, or can be plugged.
   

2. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
   

Rear Bumper Brackets

1. The rear bumper brackets are not the same, they're mirrors of each other. A good Mopar rule to live by is: Even on the driver side, odd on the passenger side
   

2. Daty Rogers - ’67 Conv.
   

3. 
   

4. They both have the same number. One of them has 2768 613 and 46075-A. The number is stamped on the inside of one bracket, the outside of the other. The difference in the two brackets is that one side of the hole for the bumper bolt is elongated. On these the numbers are on body side one bracket, bumper side the other. The body bolts slide from one side to the other, so I don't think it matters.
   

5. Jim Conner - ’68 ‘Cuda
   

6. 
   

7. You can bolt them to the body and see which end sticks out more than the other, it’ll be apparent if they are on the right side or not when you stick the bumper on there. Try here, posted the Q on moparts and this is the answer.
   

8. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107
   

9. Daty Rogers - ’67 Conv.
   

Restoring Bumper Brackets

1. After you clean them up with a wire wheel, put a coat of POR15 on the bumper bracket and a top coat of black on them.
   

Reinstalling Rear Bumper

1. It is just a matter of bolting them together. As a suggestion, use some 3M double sided tape as a gasket between the rear valence and the bumper brackets. Tape some towels too.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Bumperettes

1. The original factory bumperettes fit front or rear....on interchangeable bumpers. Replace the rubber on them.
   

License Plate Bracket

License Plate Bracket Restoration

1. Clean up the plastic nuts that are used to mount the rear license plate. The license plate light bracket has a lens. Replace if it is missing
   

License Plate Bracket Reinstallation

1. Clean up the plastic nuts that are used to mount the rear license plate. Then install them in the rear valence and bolt on the license plate.
   

Side Marker Lights

Side Marker Fasteners

1. The finish should be galvanized.
   

Chrome Work

1. The most important thing in plating is how is the base part. Namely if you have a pitted part and put some type of coating over it even if the coating looks great the part will still look bad unless you have gone back and polished all the imperfections out of it. For small part such as dash parts and such it may work but for larger parts I am not sure. The true cost of a plating job is in the preparation, not so much the plating itself.
   

2. 
   

3. A good plating job needs to be properly done. That means good rinsing after each step, then copper, nickel and lastly chrome. Remember one poor step will ruin any plating job.
   

4. 
   

5. First, they strip all of the plating off of the bumper. Then it is dipping it into various chemical solutions until all of the rust and grime are off of it. Then they will plate it with copper before polishing it to make it perfectly smooth. Only after that do they put on a coat of nickel and lastly it is dipped into the chrome tank for just about a minute plus or minus. Any dents or need welds are usually hammered out before most of the primary work is done.
   

6. 
   

7. The cost of rechroming a bumper is about the same price as getting one from Classic, though if the metal quality and fitment are the same that is the question. My bumpers ran about three hundred each.
   

8. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

9. 
   

10. Getting your bumper straightened and chromed usually runs in the $300 range per bumper.
    

11. Phil Saran 
    

12. 
    

13. From my experience, the price is the same between having old parts rechromed and buying new repro parts. The difference is in the quality of the underlying parts and the fitment. The old parts are better quality than the new repro parts and fit like they should. The shop has had quite a few issues getting new repro parts to fit correctly.
    

14. Steve Toth
    

15. 
    

16. There are other alternatives to chrome plating. The MacDermid Co. had  a process that they were working on using tin and cobalt. When it was applied it looked very similar to chrome. But again it probably wasn't as hard a real chrome.
    

17. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
    

18. 
    

19. Bumper Boyz was the "Go To" guys to have your bumpers rechromed at all of the car shows. My bumpers peeled after about 5 years...and my car saw rain only one time. The bumpers looked like they had only a thin chrome
    

20. coating AND that was true!
    

Spray-on chrome

1. This is very interesting!
   

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-1cTpSZ1l8
   

Chrome-Replica Powders

1. Chrome-replica powders certainly have their uses, but since there is going to be a lot of polished and chromed metal on your motor and accessories you should know at the outset that it won't be an exact match.  Simply put, chrome powder is kind of a shiny silver but it does NOT have that mirror-like reflection you get with polished aluminum or a real triple-plated chrome job.  When asked how it compares, my Standard Chick Answer is that you could kinda see yourself in it but you wouldn't be able to tell if you had a blackhead or not.  Straight up, it looks great out of the oven ... but most are not UV-stable on their own and require a clear coat to seal the powder; without the clear, it will oxidize over time and require polishing just like unsealed polished aluminum does.
   

1. There have been amazing developments in the industry over the last fifty years and single-stage chrome replica powders are becoming available now that do not require a clear coat. I've been using "MIrror Silver" the last few months and it seems to be holding up well so far. 
   

2. 
   

3. Check out this YouTube video on my channel for a real time walk around so you can see it for yourself. 
   

4. I used it on the ribs and under the translucent red on the Edelbrocks. My Canadian customer reports NO oxidation issues but it's only been thirteen months since I got them done.
   

5. 
   

6. https://youtu.be/lnkjHjOKn4w
   

7. Leanna ~ The CudaChick
   

Plastic Plate Work

1. You can also plate on plastic. The sputter process is what is normally put on plastic to make them shiny.
   

2. 
   

3. The problem is not too many places out here in our So. California do it.
   

4. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

5. 
   

6. There is another system that you paint on using a black paint fogged on then fog on the bright coat before spraying on a clear coat. It can be gotten at various auto and specialty paint stores. We tried it on my dash but they didn't have enough patience to get it to work.
   

1. CV Vacuum can do the rechrome work on a dash.
   

Chrome Shops

1. If anyone is looking for a local So Cal shop that does chroming you can call Bob Barnes at Vern's Plating in Gardena 323 754-3873. They do powder coatings and electro plaiting (Chrome, Nickel and Copper).
   

Installing Chrome Bumpers

1. When installing new or re-chromed front and rear bumpers DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the bolts you install them with. When you over tighten the bolts this will suck in the outside of the bumper and leave sunken in spots around the bolts. You will also take a chance on cracking the new chrome also. Both can lead to another re-chrome and/or buying a new bumper. When installing, watch the outside of the bumper were the bolt goes in, when you see it starting to pull stop. Tighten the bolts slowly. If you are worried about them vibrating loose, put a little lock tight on the bolts threads before installing the lock washer and nut.
   

De-Rusting Chrome

1. Oxalic acid, the acid part of Prestone Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner,(discontinued several years ago) can also be used for de-rusting chrome.
   

2. 
   

3. AR1500 Rust Remover
   

4. Jay Leno
   

5. 
   

Cleaning Up Chrome

1. Use Quick Glo  to clean up chrome or to shine off water spots on glass. Order online.
   

2. Jay Leno’s Garage
   

3. 
   

4. Quick Glo
   

5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7TnNEBy3tI
   

6. 
   

7.