Before Reassembly

Cleaning Parts

1. I have a cup style wire brush that goes on a large grinder that I use to clean rust and old paint. This is an industrial grade grinder that I've had for at least 35 yrs. I have found a cleaner at Walmart that works well. It's called Super Clean and comes in a purple spray bottle. You can also but it in a gallon size. It's very high detergent, I recommend latex gloves if you get your hand in it. The gray color on the cover is Eastwood Spray Gray and the black is Rustoleum semi-gloss. If I have heavy rust, I use a product called Extend, made by Loctite. I get the paint on bottle, it also comes in spray. Very good product.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Removing Rust (Chemicals)

1. Sodium carbonate can be found in the laundry soap aisle of the supermarket. Look for "Washing Soda"; it will probably be on the shelf next to Borax. You can also find it in pool and spa supply stores as "pH Increaser". Read the ingredients on the label to make sure its pure sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate should be in your garage anyway, since its used to make the electrolyte solution for electrolytic rust removal. I did a rust removal post a long time ago if you want to search the archives, or just Google "electrolytic rust removal". There's a how-to video on the Mopar Mailing List website:
   

2. www.moparmailinglist.com
   

Removing Rust (Wire Wheel)

1. You will spend hours at the wire wheel cleaning bolts, the battery tray and one of the brackets that holds the front bumper to the frame. The majority of that time was spent on bolts, for the doors, trunk lid hinges, hood hinges, front clip. fenders, etc. Your body guy needs them when he starts assembling the car. Very tedious.
   

2. 
   

3. Wipe off all the bolts cleaned up the previous day (they soaked overnight in a rust dissolver).
   

Media Blasting Cabinet

1. Consider purchasing a media blasting cabinet to save you time and effort restoring car parts.
   

De-Rusting Chrome

1. Oxalic acid, the acid part of Prestone Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner, (discontinued several years ago) can also be used for de-rusting chrome.
   

Cleaning Engine Bay

1. Use simple green and cotton cloth to scrub most of the grease off and finish with Armor all cleaning wipes.
   

2. Josh Walton
   

Bolts

1. If you have issues with bolds and threads, run a tap down the hole after blowing it out with compressed air because there may be dirt or other debris lodged inside there. But as long as you have enough threads to keep it tight, it should be good.
   

2. Nathan
   

3. 
   

4. Whenever I doubt the correct bolt is in there, I run something thin down the threaded hole to gauge the depth of the hole and compare that to the length of the bolt (minus the thickness of whatever the bolt is holding, of course).
   

5. 
   

6. The bolt doesn't have to run all the way to the end of the threaded hole but it should have enough threads for the job. An easier way is to count turns from engagement until the bolt is tightly in place. I thought someone said the length of engaged threads into the hole should be equal to or greater than the bolt diameter, to provide enough tensile force (clamping force).
   

7. Ed
   

8. 
   

9. "I thought someone said the length of engaged threads into the hole should be equal to or greater than the bolt diameter, to provide enough tensile force (clamping force)."
   

10. Correct. This is the rule of thumb I've used for many years. Dr. Mosley may have additional input, but I think the logic is sound.
    

11. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv., ‘67 coupe
    

12. 
    

13. When dealing with studs I like to see at least one diameter sticking out past the nut also. Found this on Fastenal’s site:
    

14. “For carbon steel fasteners (including tapped holes) the length of engagement would be limited to approximately one nominal diameter (approximately 1-1/2 times the diameter for aluminum). After that, there is no appreciable increase in strength. Once the applied load has exceeded the first thread's capacity, it will fail and subsequently cause the remaining threads to fail in succession.” Page has some good reading, this bit about thread strength is the bottom of the page. There is also a section explaining why rolled threads are preferable.
    

15. https://www.fastenal.com/en/78/screw-thread-design
    

16. 
    

17. Another note, if you want to chase threads on a bolt, stud, or threads cut into an object it is always better to use a thread chasing tool and not a cutting tap or die. Especially if the bolt or stud has rolled threads. Cutting material can make the threads weaker.
    

18. Michael Mosley
    

Sealing Parts

1. Pans and covers come with two types of seal surface. If its completely flat (typically on axle housings), RTV sealer is required. A conventional gasket will not seal. It also has to be RTV that is compatible with the fluid e.g. synthetic gear oil requires grey RTV (there is a Chrysler TSB about this; the oil will attack blue, black and red) (for engine use, it must be labeled as being safe for O2 sensors, if the vehicle is so equipped; black and grey are permissible).
   

2. 
   

3. If the seal surface has a longitudinal stiffening ribs stamped into it between the holes, it is designed to be used with a gasket. It can be used with RTV though. In either case, the seal surface has to be straightened with a hammer and dolly if necessary. If used with a gasket, it will be deformed around the holes, particularly if it was tightened without using a torque wrench, and must be straightened.
   

4. 
   

5. When using RTV, don't use too much. Make a circle around each of the screw holes, then connect the circles with a line. There should only be a tiny bead squeezed out after the screws are tight. Do not fill any fluids until the RTV has completely cured (typically 24 hours, but it depends upon atmospheric humidity; higher humidity = faster cure).
   

Before you Begin

1. When the car comes back from media blasting, get the body up on 4 jack stands. Now your just about ready to start getting the suspension back on the car.  POR some spots on the undercarriage that didn't have undercoating sprayed on them. That will be due to masking and the saw horse that the car was resting on in the body shop. Now there shouldn’t be any bare metal anywhere to rust!
   

During Reassembly

1. When using assembly lube, be generous, it does't hurt.
   

2. 
   

3. During restoration of parts, use POR 15 as a rust inhibitor. You can buy it almost anywhere - search the web.
   

4. http://www.por15.com
   

5. 
   

6. During reassembly, use tape on the body after painting, It saves the car paint from chipping when putting back parts during reassembly.
   

7. 
   

Bolt Orientation

1. The way Chrysler put in bolts without reference: Put in bolts from front of car towards back.
   

2. Graveyard Cars
   

Nuts Replacement

1. Nowadays they use a nut with nylon inside to prevent nut from backing off. They used to use a crush nut. They put as wedge on the nut. Nut has oval one side, round on the other.
   

Final Reassembly

1. check all fluid levels: engine oil, antifreeze, transmission oil, grease suspension, differential fluids (If you can touch grease in rear end filler hole, it is full enough. You don’t want it over that point) ...
   

2. Check linkages for any missing cotter pins, check brake lines, all clips are in place, emergency brake is tight, leaf spring hangers, tank.
   

3. When test driving, check for rattles and squeaks, .... braking, heating, ...
   

4. Graveyard Cars
   

Order

1. Begin with replacing and installing brake lines. Install the brake distribution block and right front brake line. It is much easier to get them in while the engine bay is empty.
   

2. 2. Replace the parking brake assembly. This is to make sure your car doesn’t roll. Safety First!
   

3. Replace Suspension, reinstalling complete front end assembly
   

4. 4.Install K member
   

5. 5.Install upper ball joints into upper control arm bushings by screwing them in and put cups on them.
   

6. Then lower control arm bushings on to the lower control arms. Use a press to do that.
   

7. Put lower control arms on first to the k member. Put shaft into the hole.
   

8. Later assemble brake drum system, attach the brake backing plate to spindle.
   

9. Install the steering box
   

reinstalling partial front end assembly

1. Put on front suspension first. Add torsion bars (1 each side). Tread them through holes in chassis. Add bushings. Then attach. Then put on tires.
   

reinstalling complete rear end assembly

1. Before rear end, pedal under dash, brake lines, fuel lines, fuel return lines.
   

1. If reinstalling complete rear end assembly, put on rear shocks first.
   

2. Put on greased bolt to leaf spring hanger first, then attach rear assembly with greased bolt through hanger to chassis.
   

3. Attach front part of leaf spring to chassis first then attach rear part of leaf spring to chassis.
   

reinstalling partial rear end assembly

1. 6. Install the Leaf spring rebuild kit. You can put this on after car is rebuilt.
   

2. 
   

3. Put in steering column before master cylinder brakes because of coupler to steering box.
   

4. Put in Brake booster
   

5. Install master cylinder and bleed
   

6. Replace Brakes and Wheels
   

7. 
   

8. Replace all body plugs
   

9. Install the throttle pedal and linkage
   

10. Install Heater with hoses
    

11. Install the rebuilt heater box along with the vent assembly refurbish the heater controls
    

12. 
    

13. Install control arms, then work your way around. Put in order before you tighten everything up.
    

14. Replace Electric Harnesses
    

engine bay reassembly

1. Put on fire wall components before the engine install such as: regulators, ballast, hook up wiring, windshield wiper motor, front brake lines, things under dash after the engine install
   

2. Install relay mechanism for brakes disproportioning valve windshield washer reservoir horn
   

3. 
   

4. Put stuff back in the Engine Bay on the firewall before engine such as:
   

5. power booster
   

6. relay mechanism for brakes
   

7. disproportioning valve
   

8. windshield washer reservoir
   

9. windshield wiper motor
   

10. front brake lines
    

11. things under dash
    

12. horn
    

13. 
    

14. Replace the Gauge Cluster (Dash Board)
    

15. Before installing, paint the back a lighter color such as a silver or gray. It lightens up the whole area under the dash and makes it easier to work on when you're wiring everything up.
    

16. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces with brake cleaner.
    

17. Bolt on the flywheel/clutch assembly with the motor out of the car. It would've  been a pain doing it lying      
    

18.     on your back under the car.
    

19. Replace the engine motor mounts
    

20. Bolt up the bell housing to the block.
    

21. Put back the Engine (cover fenders and nose with blankets or sheets)
    

under carriage reassembly

1. Put all fuel lines and vent lines in put torsion bars in and drive lines in put in brake lines, parking brake cables
   

2. 
   

3. Put back the Transmission, then peripheral things like upper control arms, cables, hoses, torsion bars.
   

4. Replace Driveshaft
   

5. Put in the engine / front wiring harness.
   

under dash reassembly

1. Put in heater box, petals, cables....before dash goes in. Put on heater cables to dash, then put in Dash. After heater box, all under dash provisions, then dash itself.
   

2. 
   

3. Install the switch that mounts above the kick panel
   

4. Put in sound deadener (insulation) on the rest of the firewall
   

5. Install (Classic Industries) heater hose mount on the passenger side shock tower
   

6. Install the parking brake
   

7. Install the Pedal Assembly
   

8. Install everything around the axle while you still have a lot of free space
   

9. Fuel Tank Assembly
   

10. Install sending unit to fuel tank
    

11. Spray on adhesive on top of tank
    

12. Put fuel tank pad on top of fuel tank
    

13. install fuel tank
    

14. 
    

15. Install Dash with Gauge Upgrades. (After dash installation, you can replace the front windshield).
    

16. Update the dashboard with a tach, 150mph speedo, new bezel and lenses.
    

17. Install brighter bulbs with new reflective "titanium white" paint in the illuminated gauge areas.
    

18. Bolt in dash, now hook up cables, wiring, After Dashboard, then put in kick panels, a filler moldings, visors, rear view mirror...
    

19. Put in front engine harness.
    

20. 
    

21. Put back the Engine Bay Items:  Radiator, Battery.
    

22. Put back hood.
    

23. Fan Shroud has to go over fan first, then drop in radiator.
    

24. After you install the radiator, then install the tranny cooling lines, then hoses.
    

25. 
    

26. Put back the mirror before replacing the side windows
    

27. Put back the Windows
    

28. Attach Windshield trim
    

29. Install Windshield Wiper arms
    

30. Install the hood-to-cowl seal.
    

31. Put back the Headlight Assembly
    

32. Install the Tail Light Assembly
    

33. Install front fender emblems and antenna (before front fender guards)
    

34. Install the front fender guards
    

35. Put back the Trim  (bumpers, license plate bracket, stainless drip rail molding, etc. )
    

36. Put back all body bumpers, plugs
    

37. Put in headliner
    

38. Put back the Interior  (rear view mirror, sun visors, etc.)
    

39. Put back the Interior (panels, panel trim...)
    

40. Put back Roof Rail Trim and gaskets
    

41. Install Sound Deadener
    

42. Install carpet in cargo area.
    

43. Install rear seat (bottom then back)
    

44. Install door sill plates
    

45. Replace Detail Items  (Decals, etc.)
    

46. Install exhaust system. Put in order before you tighten everything up.
    

47. Install drive shaft.
    

48. Install new carpet, steam it to fit.
    

49. Check all fluid levels.
    

50. Tighten all bolts.
    

51. 
    

Interior Trim Install Order

1. Cargo floor panel
   

2. Cargo side panels
   

3. Trunk divider panel
   

4. Rear glass side trim panels
   

5. Rear glass center metal panel
   

6. Rear seat area carpet edge strips
   

7. A pillar covers
   

8. Kick panels
   

9. Door sill plates
   

10. Headliner side finishing strips
    

11. Rear seat area lower panels
    

12. Rear seat area upper panels
    

13. "L" shaped stainless trim strips on cargo side walls
    

14. Rear seat vinyl panels
    

15. Rear seat lower cushion
    

16. Rear seat upper cushion
    

17. 
    

Final Assembly

1. Raise car up and check torques of all bolts front to back.
   

Before Starting Car

1. For the First Time Pre-oil the engine prior to starting with a drill.
   

2. Instead of pulling the distributor, do the following: - pull the plugs - squirt some oil into each cylinder - crank the engine with the starter until the oil pressure comes up
   

3. Make sure the gauges all are working. Check all your fluid levels before you put the key in.
   

4. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Not kidding too much work went into it!
   

5. Mike Jarvie - ’68 FB
   

Start Up the Car

1. It appears the Mopar engineers did not feel it was necessary to fill the lifters with oil prior to starting up an engine after a cam change after re- assembly with liberal amounts of cam lube. They would fire it up and run it at 2000 rpm for twenty minutes to set the cam lobe pattern - the lifters will clatter initially but that will go away as they fill with oil and the lifters won't be damaged.
   

2. However, it seems to me it still begs the question of why take the chance on scoring bearings or damaging lifters.
   

3. Steve Toth
   

Start Up Troubleshooting

1. The proper steps to take if all checks out, start looking at weird stuff like a bad EI module, bad points condenser, cracked rotor or cap, carbon traces or moisture inside cap, etc. I've seen all these cause backfiring/ misfiring.
   

2. Ed
   

3. 
   

4. Pull no. 1 plug out, put your thumb over the spark plug hole, have someone bump the starter. You will know when you are on compression stroke. You will feel the compression. Look at you damper and readjust to top dead center. Then make sure your rotor is pointing to no. 1 cyl wire on the cap. If not, pull the distributor and rotate 180*. If it's backfiring through the carburetor, then your timing is off. If you wires are positioned correctly, your distributor is off. That's assuming your distributor drive gear is installed properly.
   

5. Jim Conner - ‘6
   

6. 
   

7. The crank turns two revolutions for each single turn of the cam and distributor.
   

8. TDC occurs on both the compression stroke (rotor at no. 1 wire position) and at the exhaust stroke (in order to expel exhaust gas). If you are 180* out, you are firing on the exhaust stroke. You are also firing somewhere else while an intake valve is open, causing backfire out of the carburetor. You can take the left valve cover off and watch your rockers to see when both valves are closed at TDC, but the thumb in the spark plug hole is easier. Just pull your coil wire off while bumping the starter.
   

9. Jim Conner - ‘6
   

Start Up Without the Dash

1. 1. Run a hot lead from battery to remote starter on the starter then to ballast resistor
   

2. 2.Wire to coil to distributer.
   

Rick Kreuziger’s ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE:

1. There are many different sequences of assembly possible. (some variation with different body types)
   Sometimes I’ll jump from one area to another depending on parts available or other road blocks.
   There are cases where the wrong order will give you headaches though!
   Rick Kreuziger
   
   

2. (from bare painted body shell)
   
   

3. Spray radiator saddle blackout
   

4. Rocker panel pinchweld blackout (if applicable)
   Front frame rail side blackout (if applicable)
   
   
   

5. 1. trunk weatherstrip
   

6. 2. body rubber bumpers
   

7. 3. trunk latch mechanism
   

8. 4. hood latches & release mechanisms
   

9. 5. main body brake & fuel tubing
   

10. 6. fuel tank & fuel hose connections
    

11. 7. emissions tubes & hose connections (if applicable)
    

12. 8. inner cowl insulation pad
    

13. 9. firewall insulation pad
    

14. 10. swing pedal(s)
    

15. 11. brake booster (if applicable)
    

16. 12. master cylinder
    

17. 13. defroster duct
    

18. 14. kick panel insulation pads
    

19. 15. LH vent box (if applicable)
    

20. 16. E-brake pedal assembly & front cable
    

21. 17. wiper mechanism
    

22. 18. wiper motor
    

23. 19. heater box assembly
    

24. 20. cowl vent screens (if applicable)
    

25. 21. accelerator pedal & cable
    

26. 22. dash assembly (completely assembled outside of car including instrument cluster, dash pad, glove
    

27. box liner, radio, speaker, wiring, etc.)
    
    

28. 23. Vent pull cables, defroster & vent cables
    

29. 24. proportioning valve & metering block (if applicable)
    

30. 25. firewall brake tubing
    

31. 26. starter relay
    

32. 27. forward lamp harness
    

33. 28. engine harness
    

34. 29. starter wiring
    

35. 30. washer bottle & hoses
    

36. 31. ballast resistor
    

37. 32. voltage regulator
    

38. 33. horn relay (B-body cars)
    

39. 34. horns
    

40. 35. heater hoses
    

41. 36. headlights
    

42. 37. fender inner splash shields (front & rear of wheel)
    

43. 38. rear suspension stop bumpers
    

44. 39. rear seat belts (some bolt tips get undercoating)
    

45. 40. rear shocks bolted in at top only & compressed
    

46. 41. grille & headlight doors
    

47. 42. front bumper
    

48. 43. front valance (if applicable) with directionals
    

49. 44. front & rear side marker lamps
    

50. 45. rear bumper
    

51. 46. radio antenna
    

52. 47. fender emblems (if applicable)
    

53. 48. rear of fender splash shields
    

54. 49. undercoat wheel wells
    

55. 50. exterior emblems
    

56. 51. windshield & backlite stainless trim
    

57. 52. windshield wiper arms & blades
    

58. 53. other exterior trim
    

59. 54. taillights
    

60. 55. mid body/rear lamp wiring harness
    

61. 56. dome lamp wiring harness
    

62. 57. shoulder harness clips (if applicable)
    

63. 58. rear grip strips (Bbody)
    

64. 59. headliner
    

65. 60. roof rail c-channels
    

66. 61. roof rail weatherstrips
    

67. 62. windshield & backlite moulding clips
    

68. 63. windshield & backlite
    

69. 64. upper control arms on body
    

70. 65. fuel hose clamped on body side fuel tubing with keystone crimp clamp
    

71. 66. install rear leaf springs front only
    

72. 67. position rear end housing on springs
    

73. 68. loosely fasten u-bolts
    

74. 69. lift rear axle into position and install shackles
    

75. 70. connect e-brake cables
    

76. 71. connect brake line tubing & hose
    

77. 72. DRIVETRAIN SUBASSEMBLY
    
    

78. a. K-member
    

79. b. engine
    

80. c. carb(s)
    

81. d. starter
    

82. e. alternator
    

83. f. fan & fan clutch
    

84. g. power steering pump (if applicable)
    

85. h. belts
    

86. i. motor mounts
    

87. j. trans & related hardware
    

88. k. lower control arms
    

89. l. strut rods
    

90. m. center link, idler arm, tie rods
    

91. n. steering box & pitman arm
    

92. o. fuel pump and tubing
    

93. p. fan blade
    

94. radiator hoses
    

95. 
    73. drop body onto drivetrain subassembly
    74. connect heater hoses
    75. install trans crossmember
    76. install driveshaft
    77. connect shift linkages
    78. install z-bar (if applicable)
    79. connect clutch linkage (if applicable)
    80. plug in electrical connections to engine
    81. position fan shroud over fan blade
    82. install radiator & connect hoses
    83. connect trans cooler (if applicable)
    84. bolt up fan shroud
    85. install torsion bars
    86. install exhaust system
    87. install rear valance (if applicable)
    88. set car on the ground
    89. install & align door and quarter glass
    90. install steering column
    91. install carpeting
    92. install seat belts
    93. install quarter interior trim panels
    94. install rear seat
    95. install console (if applicable)
    96. install front seat(s)
    97. install trunk mat
    98. install spare tire
    99. install bumper jack