1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration
 
 

During Restoration What do People Do:

  1. They replace the seatbelts or have Ssnake Oyl restore the OEM front and rear seat belts.



General Information

  1. In 1969, Plymouth upgraded the Barracuda by boosting engine horsepower to 330 on the popular 383 V8 engine option, Plymouth also introduced a cosmetic package built around the Formula S option, which they called the 'Cuda. 1969 was the first year that the name 'Cuda "officially" appeared.


  2. The muscle car could be had with either the 275 hp 340 V8 or the 383 V8 with 330 hp and a 440+6 V8 with 390 hp. Available with automatic only and manual steering as well as too much weight over the front wheels, handling and braking suffered. The ’69 Barracuda optioned with the 440 was recorded as running the mile in 14.01 seconds and the 383 in 15.5 seconds.



1967 Barracuda Advertisement

  1. Plymouth theme sung by Edie Gorme

  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6_op_jkc6w


1969 Barracuda Advertisement

  1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uDGzeozP0M




1969 Barracuda Search

  1. Here's one resource: http://www.cars-on-line.com/plymouth.html

  2. Ron - ‘67 Coupe

 
1969 ‘Cuda Miscellaneous Information

In 1969, the Plymouth Barracuda was called ‘cuda for the first time.


Originally

What People Do:



’67 Barracuda Ad

‘69 Barracuda Ad


‘69 ‘cuda Search

Vehicle Prod. No.’s


Classic Car Insurance

Dyno Shop

Smog Check

Popular Hot 

   Rodding

   

Saving Money

Complete Restoration

research


Car Registration

Car Title

Car Sale


License plate              

    Restoration


‘Cuda Toys

Vehicle Production Numbers

  1. It is highly unlikely that you will find any source that will break down more than engine/trans and body. ‘67-69 Barracudas are the worst of the bunch as far as information on them goes. Basically, if it can't be discerned from the VIN it was not tracked by Chrysler. Many of the numbers are based on percentages rather than even known numbers.

  2. Jim Lusk


  3. I have the Galen white books, and they do not show by paint or anything other than body, engine and transmission.

  4. http://galengovier.com/

  5. Eric Valentin - ‘69 FB


  6. Yes. People think that because E-bodies are broken down into numbers like “1 of 1 440 4-speed Sub Lime convertibles with white billboard stripe, white top and black interior” that they can get the same breakdown for A-bodies. Not so.

  7. Max Heim


  8. Those numbers are not even accurate for E-bodies. Only certain special cars (hemi E-body convertibles) because all of the cars are known, not because Chrysler kept records.

  9. Jim Lusk



Model Year of Vehicle Production Numbers

1967 Plymouth Barracuda Production


  1. Body/Style No.   Body Type    Factory Price (6 cyl)    (V8)     Shipping Weigh (6 cyl)    (V8)       Total Production

  2. Total Barracuda at Hamtramck:                                                                                        62,534



1968 Plymouth Barracuda Production


  1. Body/Style No.   Body Type    Factory Price (6 cyl)    (V8)     Shipping Weigh (6 cyl)    (V8)       Total Production

  2. Total Barracuda at Hamtramck:                                                                                        45,412



1969 Plymouth Barracuda Production


  1. Body/Style No.   Body Type    Factory Price (6 cyl)    (V8)     Shipping Weigh (6 cyl)    (V8)       Total Production

  2. BH23         2 Dr Hardtop           $2,674            $2,780    2,731 lbs            2,899 lbs12,757

  3. BH29         2 Dr Fastback   $2,707            $2,813    2,816 lbs            2,987 lbs17,788

  4. BH27         2 Dr Convertible      $2,976            $3,082           2,846 lbs            3,034 lbs       1,442


  1. Total Barracuda at Hamtramck:                                                                                        31,987

  2. (Note : 1,536 of the 31,987 Barracudas were CKD units processed at the Wyoming Ave plant
    (ex-DeSoto assembly)



Build Location

  1. The Los Angeles plant only made Valiant and Dart in’ 67-’69.

  2. No ‘69 Barracudas were built at LA. (’66 & ’70 were).

  3. All ‘67-’69 Barracuda came from Hamtramck.
    Alan Erland

  4. All A-body convertibles (‘67-’69) were built at Hamtramck, also known as Dodge Main.

  5. Jim Lusk


1969 Plymouth Production at Los Angeles

  1.    Valiant          12.577

  2.    Dart              22,741

  3.    Belvedere     20,326

  4.    Coronet        16,260
        TOTAL         71,704




Build Date to Delivery

  1. My car has a build date of 11/29/66 and my grandparents purchased it on 12/8/66, that is 9 days to get from Detroit to Los Angeles.

  2. Roll off the line moved to holding lot

  3. Loaded on rail car

  4. Transported across country

  5. Unloaded to holding yard

  6. Loaded onto transport trucks
    Delivered to dealer

  7. I'm not even sure a direct truck transport to Los Angeles in 1966 could be done in a week.
    Alan

  8. I ordered my ‘68 on Monday October 30, 1967.
    Build date is Monday November 13, 1967.
    Car was unloaded off the transport Tuesday after noon November 14, 1967 at the dealer.
    I took delivery of the car on Friday November 17, 1967.
    The dealer said that it would  be three months before the car would be built.

  9. 14 days after the car was ordered, it was built. The next day it was at the dealer. Distance traveled was from Detroit to Paintsville, Ky.
    Darrell Stephens



Classic Car Insurance

  1. You may be wasting a lot of money by insuring your Barracudas through a "normal" auto insurance policy. Make sure you understand the limitations on when you can drive your vehicle. Some of the classic car insurance policies only let you drive it to and from events. Others don't have such limitations.


  2. The reason collector car insurance is “cheap” is because it assumes limited mileage, and restricts use. If you want to be able to drive it anywhere, anytime, you need a regular policy with comprehensive coverage. And if you don’t have a lockable garage and a late model “daily driver”, you aren’t even eligible for classic car insurance.

  3. Max Heim - ’67 Conv.

Classic Car Insurance Companies

  1. Try classic car insurers such as Hagerty, Grundy or JC Taylor.

  2. Hagerty is about equivalent to Grundy.


  3. Hagerty is easy, just fill out the app online, emailed them some pictures, got a phone call and a quote a few minutes later. Done inside an hour.

  4. DMax.  


  5. Hagerty will cover cars and even projects.

  6. First of all they require that any vehicle insured by them must be garaged that can be secured.

  7. Second they will insure a car under construction for a set amount that you think it is worth. As you go along you can increase the value as long as both of you agree on what it is. They do however want to see progress on the restoration.

  8. Mike Jarvis


  9. Hagerty now offers coverage for tools. If you have a homeowner's policy with adequate coverage, don't buy the Hagerty tool coverage.

  10. Ken Mayer



  11. Had American Collectors insurance, no real problem, but they limited miles (3000 annually) that can be driven and had some other stipulations. Vehicle was only covered if I was driving or towing to a car type event (show, cruz-in, parade, etc).

  12.  

  13. Grundy International seems to have the best rates with the least conditions on driving.

  14. Flying Fish

  15.  

  16. Grundy has no mileage restrictions, no worries about just driving car vs. only being covered in car type events (to/from, parades, etc).

  17.  

  18. $225.00 annually, no deductibles except for Comprehensive/Collision, $50.00. My Fish is covered for $31K  (only had to send pictures, no other appraisal required).

  19.  

  20. Reg and combined Uninsured/underinsured:

  21. Bodily injury liability per person, $300K

  22. Bodily injury liability per accident, $300K

  23.  

  24. Property damage liability, $100K 

  25. Medical Payments (per person/per accident), $1K

  26. Spare Part, $500.00

  27. Towing and Labor, $250.00

  28.  

  29. Tim Moller - ‘69 Cuda Conv.


  1. My ‘67 convertible is insured through AAA Collector Car insurance. Car is garaged. The premium is $189/year, with a $500 deductible. Everything we own is insured through AAA, so maybe they give us some discounts. The policy value amount for physical damage is $40K. It would probably cost me around $50K to build another one just like it, but I'm OK with the $40K.

  2. Ron Evans - ’67 Conv.


  1. Avoid Allstate like the plague. At the other end of the spectrum is Chubb. I've heard that they pay well, but also charge commensurate premiums.


Insurance Tips

  1. For those of you that have garages/shops, take lots of detailed pics periodically and keep an inventory on your computer. This will make it so much easier to deal with the insurance company if the worst should happen. Even a quick snapshot of the drawers of your tool boxes can be very revealing when it comes time to make a list of the lost items. Also KNOW what is and is not covered.


  2. Anyone who rents their living space needs to have renter's insurance with the replacement cost rider for the contents. The liability coverage will protect you from claims made by the landlord, other tenants and guests. If you rent anything (home, apartment, garage), ALWAYS insert a "Waiver of Subrogation" into the rental agreement; this clause basically says that the parties will rely on their own insurance coverage, and agree not to pursue claims against the other party. e.g. if you buy a dollar store power strip and it starts a fire in your apartment, your insurance will replace your contents, and the landlord's insurance will repair the building. Without the waiver, the landlord's insurance company will sue you to recover what they paid out. The waiver prevents that lawsuit. There will however be a lawsuit against the dollar store and the manufacturer of the power strip, and your renter's insurance company may piggyback onto the investigation and lawsuit. In general, if there is a subrogation pursued in connection with a claim, and a recovery is made, you will get a refund of your deductible.


  3. If you own a condominium, you need the appropriate homeowner's policy, with replacement cost riders for both the contents and the building. Check the master deed to determine how much of the building is yours, and buy enough to cover it. I've seen situations where condo owners only had contents coverage and had to repair their unit out of pocket.


  4. If you own a home, buy the deluxe policy with replacement cost riders for both the contents and building. There's typically automatic coverage for auxiliary buildings as a percentage of the main building. This may be enough for a garden shed, but not enough for a large workshop/garage. Adjust the coverage as needed. There is typically automatic coverage with a nominal limits for firearms, jewelry, coin/stamp collections, etc. Check the value of your items and buy additional coverage riders as needed. Inventory your tools, machines and other equipment. You will be shocked at what it would cost to replace everything.


  5. Set your deductibles as high as you can afford if you want to get the lowest premium. If you are prudent in your financial planning and have, say, $5,000 set aside for a "house disaster" as part of your emergency funds, then select a $5,000 deductible. It costs the insurance company thousands of dollars to process a claim, so they reward you with a lower premium if you select the larger deductible.


  6. Homeowners policies typically cover only a few hundred dollars of work tools. Add a rider with additional coverage as required.

  7. Ken Mayer



Dyno Shop

  1. In Huntington Beach at a engine and dyno shop I put my ‘Cuda on the rollers. My 12 year old 360/380 crate motor took its turn and the numbers came in at 302 HP to the rear wheels with 326 ft lbs of torque at 6,000 RPMs. They checked to fuel / air mix and said it was as good as it could be. So as long as the first number was a "3" I was happy.

  2. Dave Dalmas - ’67 Fastback



CA Emissions

  1. Does my vehicle qualify for a smog exemption?

  2. Smog inspections are required unless your vehicle is:

  3. •Gasoline powered 1975 year model or older



Books & Magazines

Books to Read

  1. Dodge Challenger & Plymouth Barracuda, by David Newhardt,

  2. Motorbooks International, 96 pages, $14.95


  3. Illustrated Plymouth & DeSoto Buyer’s Guide, by Jim Benjaminson, Motorbooks International, 128 pages, $17.95.


Popular Hot Rodding Cover

  1. Very nice cover. 

  2.  

  3. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/hotnews/1308_august_preview_what_to_expect_in_the_new_popular_hot_rodding_magazine_issue/


1964 - 1969 Barracuda Information Book Options Codes Accessories


                                         


  1. I bought one 20 years ago, exactly the same as the one you posted. It's pretty cool as far as collector's item status goes but it really wasn't a lot of help to me personally to rely on for a resto or anything -- no exploded views to speak of, and kind of fuzzy photography. It's full of copies of all the factory literature from back in the day and all of the pictures are in black and white.

  2. Leanna ~ The CudaChick


  1. it is a good source book but not detailed and printed on poor quality paper.

  2. Mike Jarvie - ‘6


1968 Factory Service Manual

  1. A digital copy of the ‘68 Factory Service Manual (FSM) is in the files section. It’s from the Moparts website. There's no problem with copyright infringement since it was on Moparts.



Complete Restoration

  1. For a company that does a full restoration of the ‘Cuda, try MoTech Performance in Murrietta, Ca.


  1. For a company that does a full restoration of the ‘Cuda, try Affordable Classics in Torrance, Ca.


  1. Maximum Altitude Motorsports in San Antonio that was recently featured on a local news spot saying they do total restorations.

  2. Joyce Jenkins - '68


  1. Another company that does a full restoration of the ‘Cuda, try Muscle Restorationswww.musclecarrestorations.com


  1. Restorations by Julius

  2. 10101 Canoga Avenue

  3. Chatsworth, CA 91311

  4. (818) 882-2825



Car Registration

Ohio

  1. in Ohio to register an out of state car the car has to be inspected to make sure the serial number on the car matches the number on the title. Once this done a new title will be issued for the state of Ohio. Also sales tax will be due at this time. Once the new title is issued in the new owners name then it can be licensed.  

California non-Operational

  1. When I brought a NY titled Barracuda to CA in 1979, I believe they had to inspect the car and charged me sales tax on the value of it as part of the CA registration cost. I think the car was already in my name on the NY title.


  2. If they hit you with tax on either the market value or the stated value, you can weigh that cost (title in other state and title it back in CA) against the late reg fees & penalties. Make sure the late reg fees drop off if you do the out of state title thing.


  3. By the way, non-op status doesn't last forever. One of my cars was non-op in CA for so many years it dropped off the DMV computer! The DMV said they only keep it on there like 5-7 yrs! Can you believe they wanted me to drive it to a CHP station for an inspection. I said the car wasn't running well enough to drive nor was it registered (duh). I had CHP come to the house and the officer had to inspect the car VIN in various "secret" locations without me watching! He peeled off my radiator support sticker and something under the trunk seal area.

  4. Ed


  5. When we moved from Ct to CA in ‘73, it was just registering the car no back taxes or anything. As for the limit of time on the Non Op I had my ‘Cuda as a non op for years before I got it back running again.

  6. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback


  7. When I bought my '67 it had not been registered in almost 20 years and as far as I know it never had a non-op on it. Like Ed said it just drops of the computer after so many years. It also had no pink slip, so it was with just a bill of sale. The DMV wanted me to bring it there so they could check the Vin. # to see if it was ever stolen or any leans against it. They also said I could use the local police to check the Vin. #. Which I did since I have a cop in the family (personalized service). Anyway there were no back fees and I just paid for the sales tax on the $700 I paid for the car. I also had personalized plates made since the original Cal black plate was to beat up for the DMV and there was only the rear one with the car. If I remember right the whole DMV cost was under $100. That was back in '98 or '99, so I'm would guess things have changed since then. I know the yearly tags have almost tripled since then.

  8. Dave Dalmas - ’67 Fastback



Car Title

  1. The Irvine, California AAA inspector did the inspection on my ‘68 and said it had been "remanufactured". I didn't know until I got the new title and it was marked in big letters across the top! It took me a year and many letters and a CHP officer to the house to confirm it was stock. And the DMV office list my title and I had to sign a bunch of forms to have DMV reissue a new title.

  2. Ed


  3. For some reason the local DMV system can't validate VIN if car is pre-’81.



Selling a Car Out-of-State

  1. Here is some advice on how to handle the exchange. So, let's pretend you have a buyer from another state that offers to buy your car. It will need to be trailered to its new home; you may not even meet the buyer in person.


  2. How would you handle things? Some questions that come to mind:

  3.     1. method of payment

  4.     2. create a formal bill of sale

  5.     3. transfer of title

  6.     4. special circumstances if buyer/seller are in different states

  7.     5. Are there professionals that specialize in facilitating auto sales such as this? If yes, how would I    

  8.         find such a person?

  9. Jeff Ramin - Coupe


  10. If you never meet the buyer in person, how do we handle signatures on the bill of sale?

  11. Answer: You don't necessarily need a Bill of Sale as the signed title will cover that. But, if you meant a sales agreement, the only way to get a valid agreement (and escrow agreement regarding funds, tile delivery, etc) is to have one signed and overnight delivery (USPS, FedEx, etc).

  12. Jim Tesno


  13. Do you need to be concerned about laws in the buyer's state regarding the sale of a car?

  14. Answer: Basically, it's the buyers responsibility to comply with his in state laws, but any sale agreement should cover that you don't warrant compliance with his state's laws (odometer laws, echeck, etc).

  15. Jim Tesno


  16. How do I protect myself in the event the buyer does not register the car? Does notifying the DMV in my state of the sale absolve me?

  17. Answer: Always a problem. If his doesn't transfer title, technically you are still the owner if he has an accident and somehow you are a party to a lawsuit (you should be able to win but it depends on his state's laws and even then you will have to hire a lawyer, etc). The only way to protect yourself is to have a responsible party in that state who will agree to actually transfer the title (for a fee of course, unless maybe you could get a BOG member in the area to help out)


  18. Bottom line is that when you deal with out of state transactions, you’re going to rack up some expenses to protect yourself or trust buyer and be at risk if crap goes wrong.

  19. Jim Tesno


After Loan Approved

  1. Assuming the buyer's loan has been approved, and the car was inspected, here is the plan going forward.

  2.     1. prepare a state bill of sale (available from the DOT)

  3.     2. have both parties sign electronically (using docusign.com)

  4.     3. deposit cashier's check when it arrives

  5.     4. verify funds are in your account at a local branch

  6.     5. Fill out the new state “release of liability form” as soon as the check clears for good without recourse. But by then the car may be in their hands...giving them many days to incur violations.

  7. Jeff Ramin - ‘6  Coupe


  8. About step 2: How long does it take before those cashier check funds are clear (without any recourse from the maker claiming it is fake or putting a stop on it)? Answer: There are stories about cashiers checks being stopped after 10-14 days.

Final Steps

  1.     1. remove license plates

  2.     2. shed a tear as it is loaded

  3.     3. go to DMV and let them know of the sale; fill out a form that releases me from liability

  4.     4. let insurance company know of sale; cancel insurance

  5.     5. sign title and send it to buyer via certified mail


Cashier’s Checks

  1. Cashier’s checks are not as secure as they might seem. There was a popular scam several years ago targeted at car sellers. When the seller deposited the cashier’s check, the seller’s bank usually shows the funds available very quickly, within a day or two. So the seller would allow the car to be picked up. But then when the bank actually went to collect the funds, often after a week or two, they would find the check was fraudulent, and debit the seller’s account. You need to ask your bank specifically to verify the source of funds, and not rely on their default procedures. Look at the REG138 document that Max mentioned a couple days ago, and it seemed it was only applicable when the seller was in CA.


  2. Regarding the cashier's check - I believe if I call the issuing bank and confirm it's valid, I should be ok. I'm not aware of cashier's checks being pulled back after days, but I'm certainly not an expert.

  3. Max Heim


  4. Yes, that is for a seller in CA. I didn’t know if other states might have a similar procedure.


  5. The “release of liability form” for California state probably can’t be completed online because a signature is required, but you never know.


  6. And even worse after verifying funds, the maker of the check I have observed several weeks to claim the check was fake and get their money back. This is what I heard. Beware folks!

  7. Ed Li


  8. Consider having the buyer do a wire transfer directly into your account.

  9. And yes, wire transfers can’t be revoked.

  10. Ed Li




License Plate Restoration

  1. Vintage License Plate Restoration

  2. http://www.vintageplaterestoration.com


  3. Need a set of fresh, beautifully restored license plates for your Vintage, Classic, or Hot Rod?

  4. LET US PROFESSIONALLY RESTORE YOUR SET OF PLATES. WE CHARGE $85 PER PLATE FOR LABOR AND $10 SHIPPING AND HANDLING. ALLOW FOR A 4-6 WEEK TURN AROUND ON MOST ORDERS. We accept only personal checks or money orders. Please call before sending your plates. 



‘Cuda Toys

Barracuda Key Chains

  1. SURPLUSgoodies makes ’67 - ’69 key chains in HO scale (1/87). They come in different colors. Go to their website or ebay.

  2. www.diecastkeychains.com

  3. surplusgoodies@aol.com


Model Cars

  1. Highway 61 make various ’67 - ’69 Barracuda accurate models. See picture above for an example.

   http://www.greenlighttoys.com/index.php?id=1



Barracuda Font





  1.                                                         URW Fresnel Joining Script