1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration
 
 

Cuda Wiring Manual

  1. Differences from ’67 and ‘68 same with the exception of the clearance lights, taillights and the hood trim pieces. More differences for ‘69.

  2. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback



Wiring Diagram

  1. The red wire with white trace feeds the dome lamp, cigar lighter, emergency flashers and stop/tail lights fuse blade and dash lights.

  2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda


  3. The stop/tail lights feed into the headlamp switch (L8-18 Pink). The headlamp switch then feeds the instrument panel (E1-18 Tan).



  4. View this wiring diagram:

  5. http://www.jefframin.org/library/BarracudaDashWiring.jpg



Factory Wiring Splice under Dash from Alternator

Wiring on a ‘68 fastback. (From the junction)

  1. If you unraveled the electrical tape from the factory splice there should be:


  2. 2. Black wire with trace (goes to headlamp switch) 16 gauge

  3. 3. Red wire with trace (goes to fuse-block) 14 gauge feeds unswitched power to the fuse box. Cigar lighter, dome lamp, stop and tail lamps, and emergency flasher.



Engine Wiring Harness

Engine wiring harness for ‘68 Barracuda

  1. Engine Wiring Harnesses come in Forward-to-Front (Headlight and engine harnesses) and a rear body harness.


Rear Tail Light Wiring Harness

  1. To replace the rear wiring harness is a much bigger project than you think.  You have to take the rear panel out, rear seat, side panel in the back, etc. 

Fuel tank sending unit wire

  1. Everything looks simple to replace except the fuel tank sending unit wire.

  2. The connector is located in the trunk on the driver's side. The sending unit wire run towards the middle of the car under the trunk area carpet (below the rear window). To access the area in order to run the new wire down to the fuel tank you need to pull the floor panel. The back seat will need to come out and the trunk-interior divider, some interior panels, etc.


  3. You can also un-bolt the panel that separates the trunk area from the inside of the car. If you do that, you could access the fuel sending wire that runs under the rear floor panel.

  4. Lee

  5. '67 & '68 fastbacks


Wiring Harness Terminal Connectors

  1. Splice plugs are used on parking lights, tail lights, etc. 

  2. The other style plugs onto a spade terminal, such as on the horns, relays, etc.

  3. DelCity usually has good prices and selection:   http://www.delcity.net/

  4. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe




Exterior Lights

Rear Tail Lights

Rear Tail Lights Housing Restoration

  1. Clean up tail light sockets so they shine again. Clean all the contacts and test bulbs. You may need to find a replacement spring and electrical contact, if the originals are rusted away.


  1. The chromed piece of the lens (that separates the red from the white) is probably corroded. You may need to replace the lenses. Remove the lens from the housing and touched up the black paint. Remove some of the scratches with some plastic polish. Scrub down the housing gasket with Simple Green and a brush and also derust (with the grinding wheel) the studs on the housing.


  2. If you have busted studs from the tail light housing, remove them by drilling them out and tapping the holes.


  3. Put it back together. Note: The housing may not fit perfectly, and you need to be careful with 34 year old plastic. Bolt the assembly back on the car.

  4. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe


  1. There are gaskets inside of the assembly that need replacing. They are cheap on Ebay. $10 bucks for a pair

  2. Detroit Muscle Technology (DMT) has them.

Rear Tail Light Housing Chroming

  1. It's made of pot metal, and it be done once more, but it requires a lot of hand work with no guarantee of success. So most chrome shops won’t even try. You would probably be paying irreplaceable-classic-car prices (think 1930 Duesenberg) if you could find someone to take it on.


  2. I had a quote several years ago to have a set rechromed and the quote was over $400 with no guarantee on finish.


  3. My guy quoted me $200.00 for the pair to be triple plated. You can also try the chrome vinyl wrap it works good if you buy the good stuff and use a hairdryer.

Rear Tail Lights Housing Restorer

  1. Send to AllTrim.

Aftermarket Rear Tail Light Housing

  1. BEA has housings and bezels for about $450.

  2. Classic Industries has a set of re pop. They are awesome, but they do not fit perfectly.

Rear Tail Lights Housing Installation

  1. Put on rear lights before interior.

Rear Tail LED Lights

  1. There is a really good thread in FABO by SlantSixDan. He mostly says "Don't use!". That addresses mostly rear tailight and turn signals.



Back-Up Lights

  1. Production vehicles PRIOR to March 1969 used short style bezels. Production AFTER March 1969 looks to have used the longer style backup bezels. Note: the bezels are side specific. Originally the lenses were made of glass. Reproduction lenses are made of clear plastic.





Turn Indicator Signal Fixtures (Front (Grille)

  1. These turn signal indicators were standard on all ’67-’69 Barracudas.






Turn Indicator Signal Troubleshooting

  1. Sometimes the Turn Indicator does not work. It could be the bulb, it could be the wiring. More than likely it is because of a ground problem.

  2. The light bucket grounds through the light bucket mounting stud to the metal main bracket, this in turn mounts to the metal body. All this is not a good ground, over the years corrosion on the lamp sockets and brackets takes its toll.








  1. The Turn Indicator case is made of plastic and does not make a very good ground. A common fix is to put a ground wire from one of the back screws to the radiator core support on each one. This is not factory. You can not have to many grounds.
    Mark Csizmadia





Hood Turn Indicator Signal Fixtures

  1. The Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicator was part of the A01 Option Light Package.


                                                


  



Hood Turn Indicator Signal Removal

  1. First of all, take pictures of the assembly before you take it apart. Note how the rubber lamp lead assembly mounts to and through the base of the chromed turn indicator shell and mounting plate.


  2. The indicator assembly bottom plate is held on by a recessed rivet. The rivet goes into a supporting post. I carefully ground off the recessed rivet head with a Dremel and pulled off the plate - don't drill into the post! You want the stem of the rivet sticking up above the end of the post so you can reattach the bottom plate. If you decide to use a drill, just remove the head of the rivet.


  3. The lens is a shaped block that has the lamp and lead assembly socket mounted in it, so I don't think a piece of plexiglass will work unless you take the time to machine it like the original (if you do, make two extra - I'll take them!). OR, you could extract the old socket from the lens (which would destroy the lens) and remount the socket on the base plate - then a flat cut piece of plastic from a generic replacement turn indicator lens could be epoxied into the chrome housing window opening. Otherwise, clean up the ones you have.

Hood Turn Indicator Signal Fixtures Restoration

  1. Take it completely apart. Cleaning up the hood mounted turn signals involves cleaning the wires, derusting the mounting studs, cleaning the gaskets, etc. Shine up the chrome housings.


  1. The knurled cylinder screws directly into the (solid fine threaded) bulb base. The back screw set doesn’t aid in the disassembly. There is a metal plate holding the square plastic lens and bulb in. This plate looks to be a peened rivet. At this time i can't figure the next step of disassembly.

  2. David Grossman

Lens Restoration

  1. My lenses were weathered and cracked. New ones are available, but are spendy - $55

  2. http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mf1701.html


  3. I used McGuier's plastic windshield polish (for motorcycles), cleaned mine up as well as I could, and repainted the silver painted reflector area. The lens was reinserted and the bottom plate was remounted to the internal assembly post using JB Weld to hold the bottom plate to the rivet stem. I installed new #330 bulbs. I also used new rubber gaskets between the turn indicators and the hood - $9

  4. http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mf1711.html


  5. TIP: Insert the bulb and screw on the lead assembly on to the chrome housing BEFORE you remount the turn indicator assembly. Insert the lead through the hole in the hood, then remount the indicators. I used new nylock nuts.

  6. Steve Toth


  7. You can try here for the lens also cheaper than Classic Industries.

  8. http://krusinmoons.com

Hood Turn Indicators Bulbs Color

  1. The 1966 uses white front turn signals and red rears, but later models use amber at both ends.

  2. Max Heim

Turn Indicators Bulbs

  1. The bulb number for the hood mounted indicators is #330.

  2. Aaron


  3. Here's one source: 10 for $4.99

  4. http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=422+2203+201216&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=330+bulb&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial 

  5. Search google on 330 bulb - price should be in the 0.45 - 0.50 each range for a box of 10.

  6. Steve Toth


  7. I'm renewing all bulbs just in case incandescent get to be hard to find. I've also started ordering LED's for all lights. I received 2 for the front marker lights. Only problem is the bases are real flimsy. I bent the pins inward trying to push one light into the marker fixture. The LED's look good in those fixtures - really bright. That's $4.99 ea., minimum order of ten.

  8. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda


  9. Napa online for the bulb                                                 - qty1 = $1.99.

  10. Mouser Electronics, Chicago miniature, Part no. 7216    - qty1 = $0.50 each 

  11. Digikey                                                  Part no. 330ND - qty 1= $0.40

  12. Steve Toth


  1. For the turn signal indicators I used the directional LED's that only shine forward. Same with the hi-beam and brake warning.

Reinstalling the Hood Turn Indicators

  1. Snake the wires through the hood, isn’t too bad. Install the hood mounted turn signals with new screws to replace the originals. After you get them wired up, and verify they work. Then installed the plastic wire retainers so that everything is nice and orderly.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe

Hood Turn Indicator Signal Fixtures Troubleshooting

  1. Usually it's a grounding problem but sometimes it's the bulb itself. I hit the end of the bulb with a dab of solder to build it up a bit.... sometimes it works!

  2. Jim Broder

Aftermarket Hood Turn Indicator Signal Fixtures

  1. There are several sources for new Hood Turn Indicators. 521 Restorations is the one company that makes the correct length of wire that is 29” long. The ones from Classic Industries have a short wire, about 12”. If you buy these, you will need to make a connecting wire to reach the engine harness where the turn indicator plug is. Or buy the extension wire shown below.

Aftermarket Hood Turn Indicator Signal Extension Wires

  1. MD6402 ‘62-72 A-Body Turn Signal Indicator Wires - For 18" Indicator Wire

  2. MD6404 ‘67-69 A-B-Body Turn Signal Indicator Wires - For 29-1/2" Indicator Wire W/Bullet Style Turn Signal



Headlights

  1. Headlights on our cars were sealed-beams, either made by Westinghouse or General Electric, never halogen-style bulbs. Date codes are stamped in ink on the backside of these bulbs. Original bulbs are hard to find but are worth the effort. Incorrect headlight bulbs can cost you points in a judged show.

Replacement Headlights

  1. Determine what headlights you want: halogen, xenon, sealed beam, replaceable bulbs Manufacturer? Wagner, Sylvania or GE.


  2. Some people go with halogen headlights and the headlight relay kit - check out madelectric on the web and Daniel Stearn. You can get the circuit diagram off the websites then used trailer lighting relays and #14 wire from NAPA and they work great. Definitely brighter headlights.

  3. Wagner H6024BL should help. They claim " 80 % more light on the road!


  4. Hella H4 is even better than the sealed beams mentioned above. Besides the bulbs are replaceable with any wattage, so you can get crazy, ie, 100W low beam!!


  5. Hella H-4 is the best set of lights I've ever had and you can get all kinds of BIG wattage replacement bulbs. They throw out a white cat eye pattern that is just awesome for seeing at night without blinding oncoming drivers, then you hit the high beams and look out. I now have 80/100 bulbs in them.


  6. One note, get all white LED’s. I got a few Reds for the hi-beam and brake lights and they did not show up as well. I also drilled small holes in the blue light domes, this helped a lot, I just drilled one at every 90 degree increment (i.e. four holes). I used Superbright leds, they are out of St. Louis MO.

  7. https://www.superbrightleds.com

  8. Eric - ’69 FB


  9. Silverstar  Sylvania Silverstar halogen headlight bulbs are a Higher-priced light that shines more brightly but not farther. Cost $30

  10. Consumer Reports

Replacement Headlight Relay Kit

  1. You’ll have to put a relay kit in. Running full amperage through the headlight switch is a serious weak point in the system (a switch can melt) It will make a huge difference -- the lights went from dim yellow to white.

  2. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback


  3. The main advantage to using relays to turn the headlights on/off is that the high current required for modern 9004 headlights/angel eyes/etc goes directly from the battery, through the relay contacts to the headlights and not the through dashboard wiring harness and headlight switch. This provides brighter headlights since the voltage and current powering the headlights does not have to go through multiple wiring harness interconnects that can corrode and cause voltage/current drops. Also the relay itself uses very little current, so the headlight switch will last longer (And the car manufacturers can use a cheaper switch and not have to run more expensive heavy wire in the dash wiring harness).

  4. Steve


  5. There is an advantage to switching ground with the fuse on the hot side of the lights. If the wiring through the relay gets shorted to ground you don't blow the fuse, the lights just stay on all the time. This is more important with longer wires that go through the firewall. The is also the way the powertrain management computers tend to work. They make the ground. You still need larger wire on the secondary circuit, no matter which side the relay is switching. Current in a series circuit is the same at every point of the circuit.

  6. Jim Lusk - ’67


  7. A thread on FABO where a guy is selling kits:

  8. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514


  9. You can pass on the internal parking light option if you want to.

  10. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

  11. Michael


  12. Also a must is the painless wiring headlight harness. It give full voltage to the headlights, eliminates current going through the headlight switch ( a big plus), and requires 0 cutting, a direct plug in install. All available from Summit, headlights 40 ea, harness about 75. Well worth it!



Headlights Rings

Headlights Assembly Restoration

  1. Clean up the stainless retaining rings with WD-40 and steel wool. Also scrub down the headlight buckets. Think about purchasing new aiming hardware from YearOne.
    Jeff Ramim - ’67 Coupe

Headlights Assembly Installation

  1. Surprisingly, the Factory Service Manual doesn't have a diagram of how the buckets and aiming hardware all go together. You’ll have to figure it out yourself. Test the headlights to see if the bulb is still good, and that the headlight and dimmer switches do their thing.
    Jeff Ramim - ’67 Coupe



Headlights Grill Rings

’67 Headlights Grill Rings

  1. These rings on the ’67 model year were aluminum.




’69 Headlights Grill Rings

  1. These plastic rings were on the ’69 model year. They are not reproduced and somewhat hard to find. The screw into the headlight holder at two places.




’69 Headlights Grille Rings Restoration

  1. Clean up the plastic rings and paint them light argent to match the grille surround.



Headlight Switches (Dash)

  1. Headlight switches tend to baffle a lot of us, especially when lights don’t come on or they suddenly go dark on a country road. Headlight switches on most domestic cars are circuit-breaker protected. When contacts become corroded and dirty, resistance within the switch builds and they get hot. This is when the circuit breaker cycles headlights off and on, so you’ll have some available light to come to a safe stop. When this happens, replace the headlight switch and check for any potential short circuits in the headlight or parking light circuit.

Headlight Switches Removal

  1. You pull the shaft out until it stops, then press the button and pull the shaft all the way out. Putting the shaft back in, you just push in until it clicks and locks.

  2. Ed


  3. Push in on it slightly before pushing the button. Maybe it was in a bind from pulling against it.

  4. Stephen ‘Catfish’ Parker


  5. If they haven’t come out for a while they can be pretty stubborn. Or, if your headlight switch has overheated (not uncommon), it can be encased in melted plastic.

  6. Max



Headlight Wire Harness Holder

  1. The finish should be galvanized.



Headlight Adjuster

  1. The first step is to disassemble your adjuster.
    Press the metal sleeve onto the plastic block.




  1. 1


  1. Now using a small hammer (nylon faced one is best),
    Tap the assembled nylon block into the cutout hole on the fender.
    A sharp deliberate blow works well.





  1. When correctly installed the block will be all the way in.
    Rick Kreuziger



Headlight Adjustment

  1. Correctly aimed headlights allow you to drive safely. This headlight adjustment method is easy enough for anyone to do at home. You should check your owner’s manual before adjusting your headlights. Also, remember that you may need to adjust your high beams separately. You can use the same adjustment process to aim these lights as well.


The following article explains how to adjust your headlights:


HOW TO ADJUST HEADLIGHTS    March 05, 2019 | By: Raybuck Auto Body Parts


You might need to fix your headlight alignment if:

  1. You replaced your headlights

  2. Your vehicle was in a collision

  3. You’ll be carrying more weight than usual

Before you drive your vehicle at night, you should make sure the headlights are aimed properly. You can adjust them using this simple process and tools that you already have.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS YOU’LL NEED

To adjust your headlights, you’ll need a ratchet or screwdriver that matches your vehicle’s headlight adjusters. Headlight adjusters are in different locations on every vehicle. You can check your owner’s manual to find them or look for the adjustment screws adjacent to or behind the headlight. Once you know what kind of screws your vehicle has, you’ll be able to choose an appropriate tool.

In addition to a ratchet or screwdriver, you’ll also need:

  1. A measuring tape

  2. A dry erase marker

  3. Painter’s tape

  4. A wall or flat surface

  5. A piece of cardboard or jacket thick enough to block light

  6. At least 25 feet of space


STEPS TO AIM YOUR HEADLIGHTS

For you to properly align your headlights, your vehicle should be on level ground. You can adjust your headlights inside or outside using this step-by-step process:

  1. 1.Prepare your vehicle: Make sure your tires are filled to the appropriate air pressure and that you have around a half tank of gas (the weight of the fuel will adjust the vehicle’s stance, and you’re more likely to have between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas than you are an empty or full tank). If you regularly carry around heavy equipment or supplies, place them in the vehicle as well.

  2. 2.Find the headlight axis: With a dry erase marker, draw a small dot in the center of each headlight. This is the headlight axis. Make sure to mark the center of the regular lights, not the high beams.

  3. 3.Park your vehicle: Park your vehicle right in front of a level wall or flat surface — this could be your garage wall, garage door or a wall in a parking lot. You should have enough room to back up 25 feet in a straight line from the spot.

  4. 4.Jounce the suspension: Bounce the vehicle a few times on all four corners to allow the suspension to settle.

  5. 5.Create a center guide: Using a piece of painter’s tape, put a vertical mark on the wall or garage door in line with the center of your vehicle. Don’t worry about precise measurements — this mark will just serve as a guide. A hood ornament or front license plate can be helpful for determining this.

  6. 6.Mark the headlight axis on the wall: Place a vertical strip of painter’s tape on the wall in front of each headlight axis. The axis dot should line up with the center of the tape.

  7. 7.Measure the height of the headlight axis: Using your measuring tape, measure from the ground to the headlight axis, using the dot as a guide.

  8. 8.Mark the height of the headlight axis on the wall: Measure up the wall and make a mark on the tape at the height of the headlight axis.

  9. 9.Find the headlight cutoff lines: On the driver’s side of the wall, measure four inches below the axis height you marked and draw another line. On the passenger’s side, draw a line two inches below the axis height. These marks will serve as cutoff points when you adjust your lights. The driver side mark is lower than the passenger side mark to reduce the glare seen by oncoming drivers.

  10. 10.Mark the headlight cutoff lines: On each side of the wall, place a horizontal strip of painter’s tape above each cutoff line, making sure it’s level. The bottom of the tape should line up with the drawn cutoff line. This step makes it easier to see the cutoff from a distance.

  11. 11.Back your vehicle up: You’re ready to adjust your lights now. Back your vehicle in a straight line away from the wall. The front of your headlights should be 25 feet from the aiming wall chart you’ve created.

  12. 12.Turn on your lights: Turn off your garage lights or any other light source and turn on your vehicle’s headlights to compare their alignment to the guide. If you’re adjusting your headlights outside, you’ll need to do this work at night.

  13. 13.Adjust your headlights: Use a piece of cardboard or a jacket to block one headlight. Then, use your ratchet or screwdriver to turn the other light’s vertical adjuster screws, being careful not to lean on the vehicle. Turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise until the top of the light lines up with the bottom of your adjustment chart’s cutoff line. When the lights are aimed properly, everything above the horizontal tape will be dark. Repeat the process on the other side. If you notice that your lights are horizontally out of alignment, follow a similar process using the horizontal adjustment screws, to adjust them back to center.

  14. 14.Check the alignment: Remove the cardboard or jacket from the covered headlight and check the finished alignment. The beam from the driver’s side headlight should sit a bit lower than the one from the passenger’s side. This setup gives you proper visibility without blinding other drivers.

  15. 15.Test your lights: After you’ve set your headlight alignment, take your vehicle out for a test drive to make sure the lights provide proper visibility.





High Beam Light Switch

High Beam Light Switch Restoration

  1. Clean up the high-beam foot switch.



Marker Lights

  1. The side marker lights were a Federal requirement that the stylists hated, and they tried to make them unobtrusive (hard to do with something that is legally required to be highly visible).

  2. Max Heim - ’67 Conv.

1967 Marker Lights

  1. These cars had no requirement for marker lights.

1968 Marker Lights

  1. The side marker lights came into effect in 1968 in the form of a round chrome trim. These marker lights were illuminated.

1969 Marker Lights

  1. The side marker lights on the ’69 model were rectangular and painted body color. These marker lights were reflective, not illuminated.


1968 Marker Lights



How to disassemble, clean, and repaint marker lights

  1. Front round corner marker lights are held on by a big course thread nut that screws on the assembly that passes through the fender. Look at the rear- same concept. The difference is how the lens and housing is held together. They are screwed together, but if they were like mine, they are corroded together since the chromed pot metal pits and kind of fuses them together. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a way to take them apart without somewhat damaging the housing. 


  2. By chance your old one does screw apart, you can get to the bulb. It's covered w/ undercoating. Keep in mind you can reshoot some undercoating on them if you are looking for the original look.

  3. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback


  1. Take apart the parking light and clean the parts with Simple Green where necessary and WD40/steel wool on the chrome. Also polish the lenses.

  2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe


  3. The lamp base, which isn’t seen when installed, is not painted as they are grounded to the body.

How to Install ’68 Marker Lights

  1. Wire and secure the front & rear marker lights. Snug down the retaining nuts and plug the front connectors to the wiring harness. Now test the turned on parking lights.

Aftermarket ’68 Marker Lights

  1. I used reproduction lights from PG Classics for my fronts. There are a couple of differences you need to be aware of if you go this way. Primarily, the wire length is a little different. I believe the reproduction is longer. The main difference is the pentastar emblem in the middle of the marker light lens is not there. No one would know unless you are doing a truly original restoration and plan to compete in some serious competitions. 

  2. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback



1969 Marker Lights Bezel

  1. The ’69 front marker light bezels on the fender, were deeper than the rear quarter panel ones.

  2. Angel Garrido - '69 FB




1969 Marker Lights Bezel Color

  1. On ’69 Barracudas, the side markers bezels were painted body color.

  2. Phil Saran

1969 Marker Light Bezel Gaskets - ‘69 A & B-body Side




  1. Reverse engineered, laser cut, dense, black foam rubber blend automotive spec gasket material side marker gaskets for ALL 1969 A & B-body Mopars.

  2. Manufactured by Detroit Muscle Technologies

  3. Price: $8.00


1969 Marker Lights Bezel Fastener Bracket

  1. Note the two similar styles. There are multiple part numbers and have the same dimensions....but not all the parts are essentially the same. The top one has round holes for the fastener pin and the bottom has one oblong hole.


  2. 16

  3. 17

  4. 18

  5. 19

  6. 20

  7. 21

  8. 22

  9. 23

  10. 24

  11. The finish should be galvanized.



Electronic Flasher

  1. The emergency flasher is energized by a switch on the dash. This causes all the turn signal lights and turn signal indicators to flash simultaneously. On some cars the flasher doesn't work unless you turn on the turn signal too. Others the turn signals should be off.

  2. From the 1967 Dart manual. Consider also that the emergency flashers should work with the ignition off, while the turn signals only operate while the ignition is on. If you need to turn the signal lever to right or left for your emergencies to work, you have a problem.
    James Lusk

  3. When the flasher is operating, the brake peddle will override the system and interrupt the flasher.
    When installing a new flasher behind the dash, it doesn't matter which way the connector goes.

Electronic Emergency Flasher

  1. If you changed over to LED lights you might have to install an electronic flasher. If converting front lamps, side markers (68 only), and tail lights to LED you will typically need the flasher. The LEDs don't draw enough power to trigger the old style flashers. Note that LEDs are polarized and you at least need to be properly wired.
    Tim Moller - ‘69 Conv.

  2. Example, my front lights are still incandescent and pull enough amperage to keep the current flasher operable with my taillights converted to LED.
    Tim Moller - ‘69 Conv.


Emergency Flasher Dash Switch

  1. The rally dash switch is different than the other A-bodies. It has a round lever instead of a paddle. it is the same switch as '67-69 Darts.



License Plate Light (Rear Bumper)

  1. The license plate light illuminates the rear license plate. It is made up of a silver metal base socket, rubber gasket, clear plastic lens (with silver casting) and 4 screws and a light bulb.









License Plate Light Restoration

  1. Clean up the metal base socket on the wire wheel. Use Maguilar’s Plastic Polish on the clear lens. Paint the silver cast on the inside of the lens if necessary. Replace the bulb and rubber gasket. Screw in the  2 set screws and mount to the rear bumper with 2 mounting screws. Plug in the light to the rear harness.



Interior Lights

Wiring

Wiring for Interior Lights for a ‘68 FB

  1. The pink wire (always hot) runs from the fuse block to the front right courtesy light & from the left rear courtesy light to the right rear one. The pink for the map lamp on a ‘69 gets it feed from a pigtail harness from the red 16 lighter feed. Not sure if a ‘68 is the same.


  2. Power should reach the fuseblock (dome light fuse).

  3. Power should reach the pink wire at the front right courtesy light (under the dash).


  4. The pink (always hot) wire runs from the fuseblock to the right courtesy light under dash. Factory wiring diagram shows it runs through a 5x2 (10-pin) connector.


  5. The dome lights should have power at the bulb clip.

  6. The other bulb clip grounds when you open a door.

  7. Ed - ‘67-68 FBs

Wiring for Interior Lights for a ‘69 FB

  1. The pink for the map lamp on a ‘69 gets it feed from a pigtail harness from the red 16 lighter feed.


  2. There is a crossover harness located at the left side of the rear hatch pink and yellow that feeds the right side lamp.

  3. Gerald Drury


  4. The rear light harness connects to the dash harness behind the left kickpanel.

  5. Jim Lusk - ’67


  6. The connector block is behind the driver's side lower kick panel, the harness  then runs down the floor in the metal channel  locked under the carpet by the sill plate. 

Wiring for Interior Passenger-Side Dome Lights for a ’68 FB

  1. The factory splice that services the passenger-side dome light will probably be completely corroded. Look for green powder on both crimps/splices. 


  1. I've also used LED's in some of the courtesy lights with good results. They DID NOT work well in some of the exterior bulb positions. I don't know whether the plastic lens blocks the light or what. They just aren't very bright. They did work very well in the side marker lights, though. Just didn't like them for turn signal, tail or brake lights.

  2. I used all white bulbs. I tried red (turned out pink), blue, and white. Very inexpensive.

  3. Jim Conner



Map Light

  1. There is a map light on the ‘69 ‘Cuda. It is attached to the dash and shines down onto the floor.


  2. Your FSM lists all the bulb specs.

  3. 1969 - #1445

  4. 1971 - FSM lists an 89 for the A and E Body map light bulbs and a 562 for a B Body.


  1. Use an LED light if you have to install a bulb, reduces heat greatly. Use BA9SF-W-12VAC: Cool White 180 Degree 12VAC/DC LED.



Reverse Back-up Indicator Light

  1. There are reverse lights and the cool little reverse light indicator located on the lower side of the dash (just in front of the shifter). The wires run from the trans to the bulkhead and into the cabin (purple and white wires). The radio power wire from the fuse panel also powers the reverse light circuit (at least for manual cars).

  2. jbeintherockies


  3. The reverse back up lights on a ’68 Barracuda gets it signal from the transmission. That year tranny has a single pin neutral safety switch in it. Later year transmissions use a 3 pin NSS. This switch is located near the shifter.

  4. Bob Rodgers


  5. The bulb plugs into the console to light up the shift indicator positions. The reverse switch, screws to the shift gate on the left side under the console and can be adjusted.

  6. Dana Price


  1. By looking at the switch, an adjustment would be by sliding forward or back by screw adjustment in slots. Don't pull the carpet off the console. Remove the console. The switch is adjustable as mentioned.

  2. Jim Lusk

Pulling Console for Reverse Back-up Light

  1. To pull the console you will need to do the following.

  2. 1. Remove set screw in shift knob and unscrew knob from cable end, keep you hands on the button as there is a spring under the button.

  3. 2. Open console door and remove 2 Phillips screws.

  4. 3. At the front of the console nicely hidden in the carpet on each side is one screw towards the front. Your gonna have to look for them, way up front on the sides. Remove these.

  5. 4. Move shifter down to low.

  6. 5. Lift console up and over shifter.


  7. Reinstall in reverse order, and when you screw the knob back on, screw it on so that the lower flange of the button is flush with the top of the metal shift knob. Then locate the set screw correctly and tighten.

  8. All in, should be about a 10 min job with most being finding the 2 front screws.

  9. Dana Price



Door Light Switch

  1. It is located on the door jam, near the door hinges. A yellow wire runs into that area. The switch comes out on the door side, to access the connection you need to pull the kick panel. If you pull off the inside kick panel (to the left of the brake pedal) you will be able to access the back of the switch and the wiring.

  2. Phil Saran


  3. If you just unscrew the switch from the jamb (it has a threaded hex) and pull the switch out with the wire. The wire connector inserts right into the back of the door switch. No kick panel removal needed. Unless the wire is dead and you want to trace the wire. 

  4. Ed

New or used Door Light Switch

  1. If you need to replace the switch, make sure you get the correct 1 or 2 connector type. Most stores list the 1 connector for the Barracuda, but if you have the light package you will need the 2 connector version.

  2. Eric

  3. ’69 FB


  1. Do a search on Mopar door jamb switch. You can get two NOS switches for cheap.



Dome Lights

Dome Lights Bezel

  1. You need to give a slight twist to the light cover and it comes off left clockwise, right counter clock.



Dash Lights

  1. There is a rheostat for the dash lights that is on the headlight switch. When you use that knob to turn on the interior ceiling light (turn knob all the way to the left), and you have the light switch set up to have the parking lights or head lights on, you have also turned the dash lights all the way to off.  So, if you have the interior ceiling light on, and making sure the knob has been pulled out to have parking or head lights on, turn the light knob all the way to the right. The interior light should turn off and you should see dashboard lights. 

  2. You can use the knob, when the dashboard lights are on, to increase or decrease the brightness by turning the knob left (decrease) or right (increase).
    Bill


Bulb Shorts

  1. Periodically inspect your parking and turn-indicator lamps for internal short circuits. We’ve had at least one experience where an 1157 lamp’s filament posts distorted, touched, and shorted internally, burning up a wiring loom. Although you would have expected a fuse to blow, opening and protecting the taillight circuit, the short circuit occurred long enough to melt a wiring harness before the fuse blew.



LED Lights

  1. Check out a place called www.DelCity.com.

  2. They have some of the coolest wire accessories (and LEDs) ever!!!



Light Sockets Restoration

  1. If they have rust, wire wheel them and clear coat (flat?) them to look original.

  2. Graveyard Cars


  3. Use a Dremel tool with a brass wire brush to clean the contact points in the bottom of the socket.
    Angel Garrido

 
1969 ‘Cuda Lights Restoration

The 1969 Plymouth Barracuda electrical wiring was not made to last over 40 years.


Originally

What People Do:


Wiring

Wiring Problems

Wiring Manual

Wiring Diagram

Engine Wiring 

   Harness



Exterior Lights

Rear Tail Lights

back-up lights

Grille Turn Signals

Hood Turn Signals

Head Lights

Headlight Adjust

High Beam Switch

Marker Lights

Electronic Flasher


License Plate Light


Interior Lights

Wiring

Map Light

Reverse Light

Door Light


LED Lights

Originally

  1. Originally the ’69 came with rectangular marker lights on the fenders.

  2. Originally the ‘68 came with round marker lights on the fenders.

  3. Originally the ’67 had no marker lights on the fenders.


  1. Originally the ’69 and ’67 came with back up lights in the rear valance.

  2. Originally the ’68 came with back up lights in the tail light assembly.



During Restoration What do People Do:

  1. They replace the headlights with Cibie H4 E-code headlamps with relays.


  1. They polish and clear coat Lens Tail lights.




Wiring for Lights

Wiring Problems

  1. Wire insulation can get brittle over time, particularly under the hood. Many wiring problems are caused by what other owners have added in the past. Another common connector problem is broken retaining clips on the bulkhead plugs.

  2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda