General Information - 318 cu Engine

1. The original 318 engine was used way back in the early ’60s. It featured "polyspherical" chambers and "sawtooth" rocker covers. This venerable classic was replaced in 1968 by the updated "LA" engine.
   

2. 
   

Casting Numbers

1. When a part is cast, the mold has a part number and a date code set so that it is part of the mold and the part is forever identified. Most Mopar parts that are cast such as alternator case halves, starter cases, cylinder heads, cylinder blocks, and exhaust manifolds, usually have a casting number to identify the part along with corresponding casting date code.
   

2. 
   

3. Numbers are on the block near the distributor for big blocks.
   

4. 
   

5. 
   

Mopar Engine Casting Numbers 1959-1978

1. The block casting numbers for all RB, B, and LA engines are found on the left (driver) side of the block. In addition, on 1968 and later engines the numbers stamped on the lower rail of the engines right (passenger) side match the last 8 digits of the cars vehicle identification number.
   

2. 
   

3. Casting NumberEngine CID     Year        Type
   

4. 2466090      318        1967-74    LA
   

5. 2806030               1966-69    LA
   

6. 2806030               1967-74    LA
   

7. 2536030               1967-75    LA    (mine)
   

8. 2566080
   

9. 4104230                                                        Race - Painted Orange
   

1. The original block came with two ears on each side of the block for the motor mounts. Both of the ears were narrow and they each had two bolt holes for a total of four per side. There were also bolt holes on both sides of the block nine inches forward of the bell housing and just above the pan rail; the one on the left was used for a brace that helped reinforce the transmission.
   

LA Engine Cylinder Heads Casting Numbers

Mopar Head Casting Numbers 1959-1978

1. The casting numbers for most RB, B, LA heads are found in two places. On the underside of the head on an intake runner, and under the valve cover on an intake runner.
   

2. 
   

3. Casting Number     Engine CID      Year          Intake   Exhaust
   

4. 2268341       318 1962-67       1.841.50
   

5. 2658234        19671.781.50
   

6. 2843675        1968-74       1.781.50    (mine)
   

The original heads came with 14mm plugs and small, almost square exhaust ports. There was no provision for AIR.

Engine Work

318 Engine Removal

1. You have essentially two choices. Out the top or out the bottom. If you are going out the top you can do it with or without the transmission. If you have not done this before, find someone local to help who has.
   

2. Michael Mosley - ’68 Cuda
   

3. 
   

4. Consider the following:
   

5. 
   

6. 1. Take pictures prior to removing anything. Pictures should depict the installation of accessories (including PS, alt, and associated brackets), routing of wires - include a few details of wiring & where it connects.
   

7. 
   

8. 2. Put small parts and hardware in your preferred storage medium (baggies/ jars/ Plano containers) and label them. Every bolt you remove should be identified. It doesn’t take too long to write "valve cover" on a piece of paper (or masking tape) and put it in a ziplock bag with that hardware as it comes off. It takes a long time to figure out where they go later.
   

9. 
   

10. 3. Beer. Be sure to have a few while you enjoy removing your engine. But take your photos first and don’t forget to keep track of what you have removed.
    

11. 
    

12. 4. If you are going to be doing other work in the car besides motor r/r, and if you have some help, remove the hood.
    

13. 
    

14. 5. One tip - and I learned by not doing this - be sure to cap the transmission if you remove it w/engine as one unit. Harbor Freight sells one for about $5 (pittsburg 98060)
    

15. Jon Lockhart
    

16. 
    

17. With an engine leveler you can pull both engine/tranny at the same time, Makes live much easier. Just disconnect everything, those you forget will remind you, it’s not hard. Just jump in.
    

18. Daty Rogers - ’67 Conv.
    

19. 
    

20. 
    

21. OK, so do not crack open a beer, yet.
    

22. (1) Unbolt/unhook & drain the cooling system, pull the fan & radiator.
    

23. (2) Unhook all electrical going to the motor, don't forget the ground strap
    

24. at the back of right side cylinder head.
    

25. (3) Unbolt both motor mount nuts underside of K-frame & the flex plate to
    

26. torque convertor bolts, also unbolt the starter.
    

27. (4) I like to unbolt and remove the intake/carb at this point.
    

28. (5) Hook up the chains to the cylinder heads (use washers under bolts) and
    

29. pull the engine out and install on a engine stand.
    

30.  
    

31. NOTE:  You do not have to remove the hood to do this job.
    

32. Phil Saran
    

33. 
    

34. View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U3L8wQ1zSo 
    

35. 
    

36. The job's not hard on these cars. I'd add to Phil's list unbolting the exhaust while you're under the car. Those bolts are usually rusty. I usually head under the car the first time with a can of PB blaster and hit the motor mount bolts, the exhaust bolts, and look to see what size sockets/wrenches I'll need and then crack a beer. Let them soak for a bit. 
    

37. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv.
    

38. 
    

39. You need to get a Chilton's or some such manual for a step by step. Obviously you have to disconnect everything and remove the radiator, etc. And then you have a choice of removing the engine with or without the transmission and then if with the transmission lifting it through the top or dropping it with the K member out the bottom.
    

40. 
    

41. For lifting it all from the top there's this:
    

42. 
    

43. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BarracudaOwners/message/178444
    

44. Karl - ‘67 Formula S FB
    

45. 
    

46. Somewhere in there before step five - step 1 for me is to always disconnect battery cables! Don't forget bell housing bolts, unbolt exhaust down pipe, remove gas line from fuel pump, disconnect accelerator cable and trans. linkages, if applicable. I prefer to remove alternator and power steering pump, if applicable before pulling.
    

47. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

1. Consider using the book How to Rebuild Your Small-block Mopar
   

2. 

   
   

3. 
   

4. The book discusses the parts of a small-block engine and describes techniques for the removal, installation, and tune-up of the engine.
   

5. 
   

6. 
   

7. 
   

8. 
   

9. 
   

Another Technique for Engine Removal

1. Jack up front end.
   

2. Block rear tires.
   

3. Put bolts in block at alternator and such so that chain crosses engine for stability in removing engine with engine jack.
   

4. 
   

5. Remove drive shaft.
   

6. 
   

7. Remove 4 bolts on torque converter and take out transmission mounting pin. Put a hydraulic jack under the transmission.
   

8. Put a little tension on engine with engine jack.
   

9. Remove motor mount bolts.
   

10. Pull out engine.
    

11. 
    

12. Lower transmission with jack and take out from under car.
    

Stroking a 318

1. Do a Google search for "318 stroker kit". There are tons of vendors out there offering them. Go with a more reputable vendor if possible (like Hughes Engines or Mancini Racing, etc).
   

2. Jonathan Lockhart
   

3. 
   

4. http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AhhMCET1FvollQb3PLYoWESbvZx4?fr=yfp-t-600-s&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&p=318%20stroker%20kit , plenty of options.
   

5. 
   

6. 360 crank turned down to 318 mains. Use Felpro HD .055 gasket and 360 heads and you are in there assuming the 318 slugs were .080 in the hole to begin with.
   

7. Steve W.
   

8. 
   

9. 318 bored 30 over using the 360 crank comes out to 350 cubic inches. One of the hot rod magazines did this a few years back, and wrote an article on it.
   

10. 
    

11. "Poor man's" 340 - 318 engine, 360 crank with 318 mains ( turned down / Mopar Perf / Summit), stock rods at stock length, cylinders bores max'd out, chebbie 283 pistons at .60 over = 342 c.i. Add some decent heads/head work, a good intake and manifold, good exhaust manifolds/headers into dual exhaust.
    

12. Steve Toth
    

13. 
    

14. There are 318 based kits out there using the 4" stroke aftermarket 340 cranks. That takes the humble stock bore 318 up to 384 inches. Or give it .030" over and get 390.
    

15. Rob McCall - ‘68 Fastback
    

16. 400+ HP (360 crank in a 360 block)
    

17. 
    

18. You can’t  change things unless you run rods with a smaller bearing. You’ll need .06 more and that means you’ll need .120 off the back of the std bearing surface to move centerline out .060. so a 2.125 journal would now be a 2.005. Use a rod that has a 1.88 bearing like a honda but then you need a shorter rod. 6.123 with a 1.88 bearing? , then you can offset grind. Cast stroker cranks are like $250 now, cheap.
    

References

1. Check out the Mopar Action and Mopar Muscle archives for a 400+hp 318 build!
   

318 Engine Article

1. The 318 engine is described in the article below, but stroked to about 390 and running about 8 pounds of boost.
   

2. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_1005_chrysler_318_hughes_engines_replacement/viewall.html 
   

3. 
   

4. I'm not suggesting you stroke your 318, just passing along, FYI, a pretty good Car Craft article on building up a 318. I learned a lot by reading it.
   

5. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1003_chrysler_la_engine_build/viewall.html
   

6. 
   

7. I didn't know it was possible to bore the 318 cylinders to 4.00 in. I'm not surprised with the power potential of this engine. It was used on the Indy project and the IROC series. The firing order on the article is wrong.
   

8. Ricardo Esperon Graham
   

9. 
   

10. The machine shop on Dyer Rd in Santa Ana does excellent work. 
    

11.  
    

12. ULTRA PERFORMACE MACHINING
    

13. 304 East Dyer Road
    

14. Santa Ana, CA 92707
    

15. 714-556-0310
    

16. 714-556-0311
    

17. mcengine@verizon.net
    

18. Phil Saran
    

19. 
    

20. I have a good mechanic if you're willing to make the trip out to Simi Valley. He and his girlfriend have a pair of fish, and he's quite knowledgeable on the ins-and-outs.
    

21. 
    

22. That being said, good machine shops are hard to find, I've found. If I had to do my 360 all over again, I'd go crate.
    

23. Raj
    

24. 
    

25. Well I pull the old 318 motor from the fastback, it really needs a rebuild, not sure if I want to just get it rebuilt stroke it or go for a 360. Going rate for a rebuildable 360 seems to run around $300-$500.
    

26. Dave
    

27. 
    

28. Why invest $$ stroking a 318 when stroking a 360 would get you that much farther?
    

29. 
    

30. On the other hand, you can make a 318 go pretty good without a huge
    

31. investment. You need to figure out what your goal is -- just working in some
    

32. upgrades since you're tearing it down anyway, or are you going for major
    

33. street cred or track times? And then, of course, what's your budget cap?
    

34. 
    

35. Upgrading to 302 heads is a huge step forward. Stroking a 318, while doable is not gonna be cheap. A 360 is a good choice but you’ll need the motor, the convertor, motor mount and the proper exhaust to make use of the larger ports.
    

36. 
    

37. Check them out at RPM machine seems about the best price around for Scat crank and rods.
    

38. http://www.rpmmachine.com/318-390-cast-stroker-shtml.htm
    

39. 
    

40. Also been looking the the EQ heads on Ebay.
    

41. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EQ-LA-IRON-RAM-DODGE-318-360-MAGNUM-CYLINDER-HEAD-/150906713421?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2322bdb54d&vxp=mtr
    

42. 
    

43. Seems that would leave just the boring of the block and the assy.
    

44. Dave
    

318 Engine Rebuild Order

1. modify distributor for cam sync signal
   

2. install distributor, set initial timing for sync
   

3. install AL water pump housing
   

4. install oil pan gasket
   

5. replace head gaskets
   

6. install pushrods and rockers
   

7. paint engine
   

8. install new balancer and crank trigger
   

9. set crank trigger timing
   

10. install engine plate and flywheel
    

11. install pilot bearing
    

12. check runout on transmission bellhousing
    

13. install clutch and TOB
    

14. attach bellhousing
    

15. attach transmission to bellhousing
    

16. attach engine / trans assembly to K-frame
    

17. install engine / K-frame assembly into car
    

18. Michael M
    

318 Engine Installation

From Below

1. Putting the engine in from below is easier and it was not hard to get the car up high enough just by jacking and using jack stands on the subframe connectors - we were actually able to roll the engine/trans in from the front under the valance.
   

2. Steve Toth - ‘6  Cuda
   

1. If you have the equipment, attach upper control arms. Next attach engine to suspension front end, then the transmission.
   

2. Lower body onto above, attach unit to upper control arms.
   

3. Graveyard Carz
   

1. I’ve done the engine/K install from the bottom on a couple cars now. Will never go back to engine hoist approach. In both cases I was able to do the install single handedly. The nice thing is, unlike an engine crane, everything can be done slowly and there is nothing swinging around to hit anything. Plus you don’t have to remove the hood so no worries about scratching it, realigning it or scratching the bolts which hold it.
   

2. 
   

3. I put cardboard between the engine and the inner fenders to avoid scratches and lowered the body inch by inch, constantly checking for no interference or scratching.
   

4. 
   

5. As far as a cart, I simply used a pair of “car rollers” from harbor freight. You know, the ones which are designed to go under the wheels of a car so you can roll it around in the garage. Since I had a deep pan on the automatic, I just put a roller under the K frame and another under the trans and the assembly was roughly level. Or you could use one under the K and a trans jack (the rolling kind) under the trans tail shaft.
   

From Above

1. Install the center link, as that will help support the engine until the transmission is put in place. Use two bolts in the intake manifold to be used on the hoist.
   

2. 
   

3. Replace the 2 intake manifold bolts removed for lifting the engine after installation.
   

Finishing Up

1. You will spend a couple hours doing the little tasks necessary to finish up the engine / tranny installation with things such as tightening the transmission mount bolts, installing the clutch inspection cover, torquing down the engine mount nuts.  You will need to raise the front suspension as it will sink several inches from the weight of the engine. Install the starter as long as your crawling around under the car.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

318 Engine Sitting for '69 Barracuda

1. I am restoring my fathers '69 Barracuda. I put a long block 318 engine in 4 years ago. I drained the fluid and was hoping to finish rebuilding it. The engine has been sitting idle without any oil for those 4 years. What should I do before I start to restore the engine? Should I expect rust?
   

2. Angel Garrido - '69 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. How was it stored? I’d at least pull the oil pan and take a peek.
   

5. 
   

6. If it was a running motor and was kept covered in a reasonably dry climate, it will probably be fine. The motor in my '57 Chrysler has sat since around 1980 and runs great today. But if the motor was newly rebuilt and has never had any oil on it, then it may be seized from corrosion caused by condensation.
   

7. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

8. 
   

9. The oil would just sit in the pan, so there was enough film throughout the engine anyway, pull the distributer, prime the engine with a drill, (new oil of course) and it will be fine.
   

10. Darrell Stephens
    

11. 
    

12. I'd look in the cylinders and see if there is any pitting from moisture.
    

13. Dave
    

14. 
    

15. The only thing I would add would be to pull the spark plugs and generously add oil or some lubricant to the cylinders before turning over the engine. Spray lubricant might be better to coat cylinder.
    

16. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

How to Prime a 318 Engine with a Drill

1. Before the distributor is removed from the engine, make sure the tip of the rotor is pointing toward the #1 cylinder. At this time you can remove the distributor, also it makes reinstallation of the distributor easier if the engine is not turned over ‘till the distributor is reinstalled. Next you will need a flashlight. Look down into where the distributor was removed from. You will see the oil pump drive gear that the top meshes with the end of the camshaft. The distributor shaft will fit in the top of this gear. It is mandatory to reinstall the oil pump drive gear in exactly the same position. This will keep the distributor rotor in the right place. The drive gear does not pull straight out. It has to be rotated as it is pulled out. I use a very long needle nose pliers to do this. One end of the rectangle slot in the top of the gear will also point toward # 1 cylinder. I use a long straight edge to line up this gear. When you are sure of the marks you will use to realign the oil pump drive you can now remove this gear. The is a tool make to fits in an electric drill that will reach down to the oil pump and spin the pump. I also recommend hooking up temporarily a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify that there is a pressure and how much pressure. I use a 1/2 inch drill to turn the oil pump.  3/8 drill will work fine. It may take a few minutes to reprime the pump and have pressure to the gauge. At this time reinstall the oil pump drive gear and distributor. Line up the # 1 spark wire with the tip of the rotor and tighten the distributor clamp enough to keep the distributor from moving when the engine is started. this should have everything close enough to start the engine and keep it running so that the time can be set
   

2. Darrell Stephens
   

1. 
   

Parts to Consider

1. Intake is an Edelbrock Air Gap, the Carb  is a Holley 4150 with a pro-form main body, 4 corner idle. Exhaust is TTI header with a TTI X-pipe 2.5" system. FBO distributor, coil, and box.  
   

2. 
   

3. shopping list:  
   

4. Main/Rod Bearing set
   

5. Full Gasket set
   

6. Comp Cam/Lifter set
   

7. Valve springs depending on Cam/lifter 
   

8. Hughes Street Master Converter
   

9. Summit Racing Piston Ring Set 
   

10. Timing set?? TBD
    

11. 
    

12. 
    

13. Spool Motor Mounts
    

14. Parts store mounts are generally junk, especially the spool mounts.
    

15. Summit Racing has poly inserts for $30.
    

16. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-1106g/overview/make/dodge/model/dart/year/1974
    

17. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

18. 
    

19. You can splurge and get the Schumacher mounts for $150 that have poly bushings in them. You’ll have to pick up some bolts to go along with a parts store pair as well.
    

20. Jaden
    

Block 

1. The crank should be polished, and the cylinders could use a hone job. I know the guy that runs the local shop and he's got time. Might as well do it right.  
   

2. 
   

3. Bearings and gasket kit are ordered. Cam selection is ongoing. Steve and JLP have a couple on the short list.  Ricardo mentioned the MP 284 (Purple shaft...right?).
   

4. 
   

5. Still need to pick out and order the converter. I'm thinking this one: 
   

6. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hughes+Performance/512/24-25/10002/-1
   

7. 
   

8. Also need to select a set of piston rings. I'd like a set of "total seals" but that isn't happening! They don't appear to make a set for my bore size (4.080), and they cost $200+!! Yikes!
   

9. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv.
   

1. Long bolts pass thru the water pump and timing chain cavity go into the block. The threaded holes are open to the interior of the block and if bolts are removed while there's still water in the passages water could seep past the gasket and enter the block.  
   

2. Lee - '67 & '68 fastbacks
   

3. 
   

Bearings

1. Engine failure can start when the bearings that are used between the piston rod and the crankshaft overheat then fail. A blackened rod is evidence.
   

2. 
   

3. Clevite bearings for some reason, are no longer acceptable for racing/high performance usage. As far as we know, usage in stock motors have not been affected.
   

4. 
   

5. Try using King brand bearings. So far they have not had any problems.
   

6. Shane Toomay - ‘68 Fastback, 318 auto (cruiser)
   

7. 
   

8. I am currently rebuilding my 340 for my street car and when I started doing research on bearings it was hard to find very much on Mopars. No one had posted anywhere I could find a single failure from a King bearing (engine tech) for any brand of engine and several sprint car engine builders appear to be using them. The funny thing was there are a ton of post from people who still swear by the Clevite brand because that is what we have all used for 50 years. I don't think everyone realizes the "tri metal" clevite bearings we are now getting are not the same we could purchase five years ago. I think the lead is now gone from them. The other positive even though it would not be my deciding factor on an engine bearing is the cost. King bearings are 80% cheaper than the Clevite brand.
   

9. Kirby Holden - ‘68 Conv.
   

Rockers

Setting up the Mechanical rockers

1. With the intake off, drop in the pushrods and mount the rockers. Looking at the cam it's pretty obvious which lifters are riding on the cam's base circle and which ones are on the ramps. I tighten up the adjuster to take all of the slack out, till I feel resistance when spinning the push-rod, then back it off a 1/4 turn. At this point I cannot feel any lash, but the push-rod spins easily. Rotate the engine and repeat until you have them all adjusted. 
   

2. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv.
   

3. 
   

4. Another method without having to think too much... valve covers off. First pass, engine cold before first starting the engine.
   

5. Write down firing order twice like this.
   

Intake:

1. 1843
   

2. 6572
   

Exhaust:

1. 1843
   

2. 6572
   

3.  
   

4. Rotate crank until #1 Exhaust is wide open... look on cheat sheet, #6 is below #1. Put your feeler gauge between #6 and valve tip, adjust as needed to get you target lash, see which intake is open, adjust the opposite intake valve. Cross those two off. The idea is that you know for sure that when a valve is close to being full open the opposite cylinder's like valve lifter will definitely be on the base circle of the cam.
   

5.  
   

6. Rotate the crank 90 degrees.  #8 exhaust should be wide open.  Adjust #5 exhaust.  Adjust the next intake valve. Cross those two off.
   

7.  
   

8. Repeat until you have done them all.
   

9. 
   

10. Check them after the engine has warmed to operating temp, you should be pretty close if not spot on.
    

11. Michael Mosley - ’68 Cuda
    

Adjustable Rockers

1. I ended up bending a couple pushrods. Not bad, but it's noticeable when you roll them on a flat surface. After some research I discovered that these rockers can use the adjusters that have a lock nut instead of relying on the coating on the factory adjusters. Crane makes a kit.
   

2. 
   

3. The rockers need to be shimmed to limit the horizontal travel.  Buy the shims, one pack for each head. These are from Mopar Performance. You can’t just bolted them on and assumed it is fine. The procedure is to replace the adjusters & pushrods, shim the rockers/spacers, and re-installed the rockers.
   

4. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv, ‘67 Coupe
   

5. 
   

6. My 392 hemi motors just have a LIGHT spring that holds the rocker against the post. Just a flick of the pinky finger and it will move away. That made me to believe that horizontal alignment wasn't really needed, but apparently not.
   

7. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

8. 
   

9. On my motor (71 340, Iron X-heads, Solid Cam) the rockers could slide back and forth quite a bit. It took me about half an hour to figure out where I needed to put the shims. The idea, is to move the rocker arm till it was centered on the valve, and then mess with the shaft bolt washer/retainer to minimize that gap. This is easiest with the pushrods out. On mine, I was able to flip the washer/retainers and close the gaps quite a bit. Once doing it I found one that needed to be ground off to get the right clearance. I made a diagram, pulled the rockers loose and assembled the whole thing with the shims in place. Test fit, adjust as necessary, and finally install it with the pushrods in place.  Way better.  
   

10. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv, ‘67 Coupe
    

11. 
    

12. The book "How to Hot Rod Mopar Small Block Engines" describes shimming the rockers for high performance applications. Apparently the factory didn't consider this essential.
    

13. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback
    

Cam Shafts

1. Comp Cams "Hi-Pro" Retro-fit hydraulic Flat Tappet
   

2. Comp Cams "Pro Magnum" Retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters
   

3. Comp Cams 280/284 x .541/.537 hydraulic roller cam
   

4. 
   

5. Here are the specs on the Comp Cams factory 340 hi-po hydraulic flat tappet replacement:
   

6. 
   

7. Hydraulic-Factory I.D. #2899206 for, 340 cu.in.
   

8. 1968-71, Factory 275 H.P. 340 cu.in.
   

9. 1970,      Factory 290 H.P. 340 cu.in.
   

10. 1972-73, Factory 240 H.P. 268 intake / 276 exhaust, .464 lift on both, 110 degree lobe separation (Magnum Muscle Cam # 268AH-10)
    

11. Steve
    

12. 
    

13. The 68-340 cam with a manual trans spec`ed as 276*intake and 284*exhaust with a .453" lift. HTH.
    

14. The 68-340 cam with a manual trans spec`ed as 276* intake and 284*exhaust
    

15. with a .453" lift. HTH.
    

16. Daty Rogers - ’67 Conv.
    

Racing Cam

1. Consider Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft P4120231 for a 360 engine for racing. This cam is to go with 9.5:1 or better and about a 3.91 gear in a 360.  So think about that... if you do not want to run at least a 3.91 rear axle this may not be the cam you are looking for, it will not spend as much time in the powerband this cam is meant for and be a dog down low if you are running 3.23s.
   

2. 
   

3. The P4120231 is not the right cam for a street cruiser in a 360. The P4120231 is listed as a hydraulic not a solid. It is borderline for unported heads, needs 3.91 or better and too much converter to be a pleasant street cruiser. That much duration makes a nasty cam (mine has 243@0.050) for a 440 with lightly ported heads, a 2800 rpm stall speed and 3.90 gears, with 80 less cubic inches it will not work as well, it would want more gear and more stall speed. The bigger the engine the more cam it will "swallow". Here is a generic description of the purple cams: https://www.monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/inetsolution_chartView.asp?r=50.
   

Street Cruiser Cam

1. The P4452761 for a 360 would be better for a cruiser and goes well with the 3.54 gear and would work well with a mild converter. It has a little more overlap than your factory muscle cam and would have a pretty mean idle without being unpleasant for normal driving. This cam w/ true 10:1 CR should give you a cranking pressure of 160psi and a dynamic CR of 8.0, this is safe for pump gas. 
   

2. Michael Mosley
   

Cam Break-In

1. The latest Mopar Action, Dec 2013 issue, has a good article on the correct pre-firing steps to take to prevent wiping a cam lobe during engine break-in.
   

2. Steve
   

3. 
   

4. There have been quite a few discussions over the last few years about flat tappet cam failures during break in. It is true that the government forced the oil companies to remove much of the ZDDP in motor oil due to catalytic converter emission issues with modern motors. It has now been lowered in diesel oil as well. Flat tappet cam/lifter failures happen more at break in than it does once the engine has 10 - 15 thousand miles on it.
   

5. 
   

6. If you use a flat tappet cam, be sure to use a good additive for the initial break in, and use the additive at every oil change. I use ZDDP Plus with my mostly stock 383. Be sure to Google "break in flat tappet cam lobe failure", it is really scary.
   

7. 
   

8. The more aggressive a flat tappet cam is, the more spring pressure it generally requires to keep from floating valves. Unfortunately, the more spring pressure, the easier it is to wipe a cam lobe on break in.
   

Harmonic Balancer

1. A 273 is forged crank, internally balanced. The 47+ year-old rubber will start to flake off.
   

Harmonic Balancer Replacement

1. All 318, 273, 340 will interchange and work, the 360 is different. That being said there are two differences.
   

2. A. The timing mark Left or right
   

3. B. The bolt circle Not sure when the change happened but on some one of the bolts is offset, early I think What you need simply needs to have the offset bolt and passenger side timing mark.
   

4. Alan
   

5. 
   

6. The replacement part for a harmonic balancer for a 273 is Mopar Performance P4452816.
   

7. 
   

8. A ‘68 harmonic balancer will fit a 318. But the 318 is a cast crank, and from what I have read the dampers are different from the forged crank engines. They have different part #s, and they are visually different -- the cast crank ones have a large curved "groove" of missing material on one side.
   

9. 
   

10. One difference is the cast crank ones may be thinner, affecting pulley alignment. It may boil down to the build date of the 318 (67 or early 68).
    

11. They claim they are all interchangeable up to 71, but I wonder about that. And this thickness issue makes me worry about the MP part.
    

12. 
    

13. It might be worth taking a look at them side-by-side. I think any internal-balance small block balancer could probably work, keeping the clocking of the timing mark in mind. However, I kind of think that there are other marks on the balancer @ 90* increments, and hopefully (probably) the timing tabs are also referenced at 90* increments. Worst case, you could paint the mark that was @ TDC and rely on the marks on the tab over any on the balancer itself. Or, get a dial-back-to-zero timing light and read the timing on the light.
    

14. 
    

15. Not cheap: 
    

16. http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_60&products_id=118
    

17. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
    

Rebuilt Harmonic Balancer

1. An outfit called Damper Doctor that rebuilds them. $109.95
   

2. http://damperdoctor.com
   

3. 
   

4. There are others:
   

5. http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm
   

Harmonic Balancer Gasket

1. If you mean the felt donut, that goes into the back of the balancer. You should be able to get a Speedi-Sleeve for the balancer shaft. This is a very thin but hard metal sleeve that fits tightly over the shaft, creating a smooth surface for the seal to ride on. Made by Chicago Rawhide. You may need to know the exact diameter to order, or it may be listed by application.
   

2. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback
   

1. Early 318's required the felt ring (dirt seal) so the balancers have the groove.
   

2. Late model 318's do not require the felt ring so late model balancers don't have the groove. However, when you buy a balancer, the manufacturer sometimes includes the felt ring regardless.
   

3. Steve Toth
   

Timing Cover

Timing Cover Differences by Year

1. ‘67 Type: no timing tab cast into cover. The timing indications are on a little plate that bolts to the water pump. Water pump exits driver side.
   

2. 
   

3. ’68 type: 68 timing tab cast into cover, passenger side. water pump exits driver side.
   

4. 
   

5. 70 + type: timing tab cast into cover, driver side. water pump exits passenger side.
   

6. 
   

7. Note: Of the very few interchange parts between the dreaded poly 318 and our LA 273, 318, 360's is the timing cover, it's made of cast iron.
   

8. Aaron McDonald
   

Timing Cover Year Interchangeability

1. All covers and waterpumps will bolt up to each other, but only the matching combo (of timing cover, water pump, balancer and radiator)will
   

2. ensure that you can:
   

3. 
   

4.    - see the timing marks (ie not blocked by the the lower radiator hose / water pump outlet);
   

5. 
   

6.    - have the timing mark on the balancer line up with the timing indicators cast into the timing cover (ie if mismatched components they will be out of phase by 90 degrees). This problem can be solved by remarking the balancer, using MP timing tape, or getting a bolt on tab for it;
   

7. 
   

8.     - have the water pump exit on the same side as the lower radiator inlet.
   

9. 
   

10. If you're building everything fresh, go with all the 70 and up stuff (ie waterpump, timing cover, balancer and radiator) - it's easier and cheaper.
    

11. 
    

Timing Cover Oil Shield

1. If you mean the flat metal ring, it’s called an oil shield or oil slinger. It goes on the crank snout before you put the cover on.
   

2. Max Heim - ’67 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. 

   
   

5. 
   

6. The oil slinger goes on the crankshaft before the balancer is installed. It probably has a step in it, so be sure to orient it so it doesn't interfere with the timing chain, and that the balancer hub seats correctly. You might want to check the pulley alignment of the water pump, alternator, power steering and AC. Adding the slinger if there is not presently one installed may move the crankshaft pulley grooves out of plane.
   

Timing Cover Oil Shield Wear

1. If there's a wear groove, it will quickly destroy the new seal. Install a repair sleeve. Depending on where the old seal was seated, you *might* be able to offset the new seal onto a non-worn portion of the balancer hub, but don't count on it. Also closely inspect the rubber in your balancer. If its cracked, hardened, or swollen from oil exposure, replace the balancer.
   

2. 
   

3. Most Speedi Sleeve kits typically run ~$25, but the ones for these old engines are cheap...$6 or less in come cases
   

Timing Marks

Pre 1970 Engines

1. Early motors had the timing tab on the pass. side of the water pump.
   

2. Later ones had it cast-into the timing cover on the drivers' side.
   

Post 1970 Engines

1. 1970 Chrysler moved the timing mark to the driver's side. The harmonic  balancer will also have the mark on the opposite side. 
   

Freeze Plugs

1. They're called freeze plugs, but that's not their purpose. When the head/block/whatever is cast, you somehow have to be able to hold the sand that forms the negative shape of the casting inside (where the water passages are) in place. The only way to do that is with some more sand that holds that chunk inside. Molten metal is poured (or forced) in to the hollows inside and forms the casting. Then the sand that takes the place of the water passages etc is dug and shaken out. Now you're left with holes. A metal plug is stuck in there. It's cheap and lasts a decade or two, which is enough for most cars. And that plug is called a freeze plug, because, sometimes, when the coolant freezes, it will force the plug out and save the casting. Or not.
   

Freeze Plug Corrosion Prevention

1. If you don't want your core plugs rusting out, there are two things you can do. When installing them, coat the entire inside surface with gasket shellac. Then maintain the coolant. Conventional green silicate coolant becomes corrosive after a year or two and has to be flushed and replaced. I recommend using a HOAT technology instead; Zerex G05 is a good choice that is approved by numerous auto manufacturers. In a newer car follow the owner's manual instructions for coolant selection. Some vehicles require a specific coolant, or you may destroy the engine.
   

2. Ken Mayer
   

Head

1. Make sure when rebuilding your heads that you have hardened seats inserted.
   

273 Heads

1. The 273 head has a smaller bore. The 273 heads (920) are closed chamber and are considered pretty efficient with high compression pistons.
   

318 Heads

1. A good (best bang for the buck) out-of-the-box street performance small block head that doesn't break the bank would be the Mopar Magnum Heads for standard LA blocks.
   

2. Steve
   

3. 
   

Head Repair

1. These castings are notoriously fragile. Find a shop close by that does cast iron repair welding. Have the head repaired and any required valve seats re-machined. Worked for me on a pair of 302 heads. Also had a set of 340 hi-po manifolds repaired. The main caveat is that it HAS to be a shop that knows how to properly repair/weld cast iron.
   

2. Steve Toth
   

Setting the Lash

1. I read one book and it said rotate crank to TDC on compression stroke( were both valves are closed and the rods are easily rotated) and mark the spot. also make a mark 90,180,270 from this point. At TDC set intake to .013 and exhaust to .021. move the crank to 90 deg, and then do piston #8, another 90 to 180 deg and do piston #4, 270deg. to do piston 3 back to TDC to do piston 6. 90 deg. to do 35. 180 deg. for piston #7 and last at 270 deg to do #2
   

2. 
   

3. Place crank at  TDC of #1    intake #2 & #     exhaust #4 & #8
   

4. 180 deg to       TDC of #4              #1 & #8                 #3 & #6 
   

5. 180 deg to       TDC of #6              #3 & #4                 #5 & #7
   

6. 180 deg to       TDC of #7              #5 & #6                 #1 & #2
   

7. 
   

8. intake is .028 and exhaust is .032                
   

9. Robin Findlay - ‘67 Barracuda
   

10. 
    

11. Try downloading this 67 Dart Factory Service manual, It should have the same information as the Barracuda on the 273. You can get other factory service manuals there also, including a 68 Plymouth manual that covers Barracuda.
    

12. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1967_Dart_Coronet_Charger_Service_Manual.zip
    

13. Josh 
    

14. 
    

15. Looks like stock 273 is .013 intake .021 exhaust.
    

Intake Manifold

LA Engine Intake Manifold Casting Numbers

1. Casting Number    Engine CID      Year    
   

2. 2843683318-2          1969-70
   

Intake Manifold Repair

Reinstalling Intake Manifold

1. The hardest part was scraping off the old gaskets and re-cleaning all the mounting surfaces and not getting any bits and pieces in the intake valley (careful use an old bath towels)
   

2. 
   

3. Use Permatex Ultra Black on the side gaskets, just around the water passages.
   

4. Your engine gasket kit includes a cork "end" gaskets (would go between the intake and the block), but instead put down a bead of Permatex. Bolt on the intake manifold. Torque down the intake bolts, and we your done! Use a little more Permatex on the intake to make doubly sure you don't have any oil leaks in the future. Add a bead to both the front and back of the intake, and smoothed it with your finger.
   

5. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

6. 
   

7. Use 3/16 x 5/8 roll pins for the end gasket positioning pins (now called "spring pins" and come in 1/2 and 1 inch. (Use a Dremel tool and cut the 1 inch to length).
   

8. Steve Toth
   

1. Install the pipe plugs in the intake manifold, using some thread sealant. Install the valve cover gaskets, and torqued the covers in place. FSM says they should be 40 in-lbs. Take some fine sandpaper and rough up the intake manifold in preparation of paint. If polished, the paint probably wouldn't want to stick to it in that condition. Use a utility knife to trim some of the tape covering various orifices, so that things are masked properly for painting.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Aluminum Intake Manifold

1. With an aluminum intake, if you over tighten you can warp the engine. Or cause a vacuum or oil leak.
   

RTV for Intake Manifold

1. In the book "Building small block Mopars", they recommend:
   

1. 1. RTV around the water passages on both sides of the manifold-to-head gaskets
   

2. 2. 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the bottom of each cork end gasket
   

3. 3. RTV between the ends of the cork manifold-to-block gaskets and the manifold-to head gaskets
   

4. 4. 3M weatherstrip adhesive between the manifold and all the gaskets when it is put in place
   

5. 
   

6. The 3M weatherstrip adhesive is contact cement. I can see using it on the bottom of the end gaskets to hold them in place, but not between the manifold and all the gaskets - actually I can't see using anything between the manifold and all the gaskets.
   

7. 
   

8. I'm thinking Blue RTV around the water ports on both sides of the gaskets, a little gasket tack between the middle of the manifold-to head gaskets and the heads to keep them in place, black RTV / The Right Stuff on top and bottom of cork end gaskets, position the manifold and bolt it down.
   

9. Steve Toth
   

1. Just use blue RTV around the water ports on both sides of the intake-to-manifold gaskets, use the cork end gaskets, black RTV on the top and bottom of the end gaskets, positioned the manifold and torque it down.
   

1. Use Permatex Ultra Black on the side gaskets, just around the water passages.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

3. 
   

Valve Covers

Assembly

1. You need to tighten an aluminum cover on a cast head slowly, and evenly. They crack when people over tighten them on the corners. They need some finesse, especially on old cast iron heads. Install in an "in to out/cross pattern" when tightening.
   

2. 
   

3. With a set of these big block valve covers, inspect the dogears closely, especially if you bought them within the last year and most especially if you've been chasing an inherent leak.
   

4. Cuda Chick
   

5. 
   

6. Per Ken at Summit, if you do find a crack or suspect yours may be defective and bought them ONLY within the last 90 days (beyond that you're SOL folks), Summit will EXCHANGE THEM for another set in their inventory.
   

Aluminum Valve Cover Repair

1. A cast aluminum valve covers corner can brake off (such as an Edelbrock 318/360 alu). Find a welding business that nows how to weld aluminum. Once the corners get a bead of weld run across, they never crack again.
   

2. Steve Toth
   

Valve Cover Gaskets

1. If you use the rubber gaskets, with the metal inners, like ones from Moroso, it will help to stave off cracking while installing them, less chance of distortion always install in an "in to out/cross pattern" when tightening, may help also, use a 1/4" drive tool also, less leverage, less chance of distortion from over tightening, possibly it will help, to not over tighten them.
   

Valve Cover Powder Coating

1. Consider powder coating. Powdercoat should be easier to keep clean too.
   

2. Leanna - the ‘Cuda chick’ does this.
   

3. 
   

Breather Cap

1. Chrome breathers were on black wrinkle or chrome covers, not on engine color covers (that's why 273 four barrel and hemis had them).
   

2. Jim Lusk
   

3. 
   

4. No chrome breathers on 340's. That's a 383 a-body thing.
   

5. Steve Wall
   

Gaskets

1. The visible gaskets should be of the appropriate material, like cork for the valve covers and oil pan. Take advantage of modern rubber and coated gasket technology, as the performance will be much better if your not making a factory repro.
   

Felpro Intake Manifold Gaskets

1. I bought the Felpro 1213 High performance gasket set vs the MS90109 and find they are definitely different with the 1213 having less holes through it in the middle section. Seems like the 1213 is wrong for the 6 pack as will not put heat into the choke chamber section.
   

2. Ralph Marrone - ‘68 340S Fastback
   

3.  
   

4. The gaskets should work fine with the intake. The only issue would be if you are using a divorced choke, it might take a little longer to fully open. If you are using an electric or manual choke, there is no problem.
   

5.  
   

6. Keep in mind that over time the heat cross-over will clog with buildup, and act the same as having the gasket there. If you want, you can create a hole in the gasket to allow the heat to cross-over. I have used them with and without making the hole, now I use an electric choke so no hole on the 408 engine.
   

7. Eric Valentin - ‘69 B5 408 Fastback
   

8. 
   

9. As long as the divorced choke will get fully open, I will leave it as is. Otherwise another 3 hours to break it apart again and put new ones with in. 6 packs take a lot of time to disassemble and I use Brad Penn oil with only about 10 minutes of time so expensive "mistake".
   

10. Ralph Marrone - ‘68 340S Fastback
    

1. 10 years ago I had a leak in the intake manifold gasket on my 340 6 pack AAR on the left side of engine. So I pulled intake and put on new gasket. 10 year later leaking on the right side again. I spray some brake clean on back side and the rpm comes up about 200-300. I used a standard Felpro last time. Any suggestion on how to prevent again?  any better brands?
   

2. Ralph Marrone - ‘68 340S Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. I use a thin layer of silicone on all the gaskets, on both sides to ensure that I don't run into any problems. It has worked well so far.
   

5. Nathan Nuttall - ‘67 Fastback
   

6. 
   

7. I have used the FelPro 1213 gasket on all of the LA engines I have built, I also use RTV around the ports and water passages. So far I have never had any issues with leaks or blow outs.
   

1. When I installed the milled 302 heads on the 318 in the cruiser, I didn't use the valley gaskets for the ends of the manifold at all (I forget where I read about this).  I installed the manifold with the Hi-Po Felpro port gaskets and RTV around the water ports, then ran a thick bead of blue RTV along both ends of the manifold from corner to corner, smoothed it out with my finger and let it cure. No issues with sealing which, apparently, can occur with the cork end gaskets, especially in the corners. 
   

2. Steve
   

1. I bought the Felpro High Performance to put in this weekend. I always understood that you did not use silicon sealer on intake manifolds where it came in contact with gas (i.e. around the head ports) and you should use something like The Right Stuff instead.
   

2. Ralph Marrone - ‘68 340S Fastback
   

 Mopar Intake manifold Gaskets

1. For my Magnum stroker I used the Mopar gaskets, mainly because FelPro did not offer a rubber one at that time.  So far the Mopar gasket seems to be holding up just fine.
   

2. Eric Valentin - ‘69 B5 408 Fastback
   

 Mr. Gasket Intake manifold Gaskets

1. Mr. Gasket gray intake gaskets come in different thickness so if you have a little misalignment from machining deck/heads, ( compression= free HP) they will compress some. I seal almost everything with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. It,s a bear to remove, but it seals. And yes throw the end gaskets away and use the red heavy duty silicone after it sets up 75% sit it on with just a thin finger wipe on the intake ends of the intake.
   

2. Danny D. Williams
   

 RTV Silicone on Intake Manifold Gaskets

1. I've used RTV around water and intake ports for years with no problems...just use it sparingly. Make sure you go around the water ports. It will save you grief later. Also, lay a bead of RTV along the outside edge of the valley gaskets all the way to the corners.
   

2. 
   

3. Remember to put a bead at the corners where the intake gaskets meet the middle valley gaskets. Another good thing to do is to use a straight edge to check that the intake surface and the head surfaces are flat.  
   

4. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv.
   

5. 
   

6. RTV Blue and Felpro gaskets here - no problems.
   

7. Steve
   

Felpro Gasket Price

1. The same Fel-Pro gasket set was approx $52 at O'Reilly’s, $64 at AutoZone, $74 at Advance and $104 at NAPA. Don’t deal with NAPA because of their outrageous price.
   

Bell Housing

Restoring Bell Housing

1. Started the nasty job of cleaning up the bell housing with a brush and Simple Green. First, take it apart - the splash shield, inspection cover and clutch fork. Get the bolts, fork and inspection cover cleaned up. Degrease all the bolts associated with the bell housing. Assemble the various parts of the bell housing. Paint the various bell housing parts that would be visible. 
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Fly Wheel

1. There are different diameter flywheels.
   

2. One flywheel has 143 tooth kind. This is for 11" clutches
   

3. One flywheel has 130 tooth kind. This is for 10.5" clutches. It’s from a 318 weighted for a 360.
   

4. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Replacement Fly Wheel

1. Measure the old and new flywheels. The bottom line is that you need either a new flywheel or a new bell housing.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Bell Housing

   All aluminum bell housings are 10 1/2”.

Dipstick

1. The dip stick tube was not installed when engine was originally painted, but the handle was.
   

2. Graveyard Cars
   

Dipstick Restoration

1. To remove the dipstick tube from a 318, use a little heat. Then derust / depaint the dipstick tube. Put a coat of paint on the dipstick tube.
   

Reinstall Dipstick

1. Fit up and size the dipstick.
   

Oil Pan

1. A/LA Pans
   

2. Year      19691970-1972 1973-1976
   

3. Stamp         394                 294 228
   

4. Part # 2806393  34182933614227
   

5. Baffles        no          no        no
   

6. Strainer    2468849    2468849  2468849  
   

7. 
   

Oil

Engine Break-In

1. For the break-in I'll use 10W-30 with the zinc additive as recommended by my machine shop, neighbors, friends, and some of the internet sources.
   

2. Use Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 after the break in.   
   

3. Josh Walton - ‘68 Conv.
   

4. 
   

Oil Pressure

1. Double check oil pressure using an accurate gauge.
   

2. 
   

3. I once read you need 10 lbs of pressure for every thousand RPM. Don't know if it is true, just what I was told sometime ago.
   

4. Dr. Bob
   

Oil Pressure Troubleshooting

1. If an engine oil pressure is normal Cold and drops really low when it warms up it can be worn crank/cam bearings.
   

2. Ed
   

3. 
   

4. Why do you consider high oil pressure at startup a problem? How high? My engine just got back from the rebuilder with the break-in-oil, pushes 65-70 lbs on start-up. There is a pressure relief spring in the filter housing that will allow over pressure to by-pass the oil filter if plugged. If it was 25 lbs ..cold and 0 hot ...ya you got a problem !!!  ask me how I know !!!  
   

5. Jon Rutka - ‘68 FB
   

Oil Myths & Facts  (Engine Oil Myths)

1. Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths. Here are some facts you may want to pass along to customers to help debunk the fiction behind these myths.
   

The Pennsylvania Crude Myth

1. This myth is based on a misapplication of truth. In 1859, the first commercially successful oil well was drilled in Titusville, Pennsylvania. A myth got started before World War II claiming that the only good oils were those made from pure Pennsylvania crude oil. At the time, only minimal refining was used to make engine oil from crude oil. Under these refining conditions, Pennsylvania crude oil made better engine oil than Texas crude or California crude. Today, with modern refining methods, almost any crude can be made into good engine oil. Other engine oil myths are based on the notion that the new and the unfamiliar are somehow "bad."
   

The Detergent Oil Myth

1. The next myth to appear is that modern detergent engine oils are bad for older engines. This one got started after World War II, when the government no longer needed all of the available detergent oil for the war effort, and detergent oil hit the market as “heavy-duty” oil.
   

2. 
   

3. Many pre-war cars had been driven way past their normal life, their engines were full of sludge and deposits, and the piston rings were completely worn out. Massive piston deposits were the only thing standing between merely high oil consumption and horrendous oil consumption. After a thorough purge by the new detergent oil, increased oil consumption was a possible consequence.
   

4. 
   

5. If detergent oils had been available to the public during the war, preventing the massive deposit buildup from occurring in the first place, this myth never would have started. Amazingly, there are still a few people today, 60 years later, who believe that they need to use non-detergent oil in their older cars. Apparently, it takes many years for an oil myth to die.
   

The Synthetic Oil Myth

1. Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.
   

The Starburst Oil Myth

1. The latest myth promoted by the antique and collector car press says that new Starburst/ API SM engine oils (called Starburst for the shape of the symbol on the container) are bad for older engines because the amount of anti-wear additive in them has been reduced. The anti-wear additive being discussed is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP).
   

2. 
   

3. Before debunking this myth, we need to look at the history of ZDP usage. For over 60 years, ZDP has been used as an additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation stability.
   

4. 
   

5. ZDP was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Oils with a phosphorus level in the 0.03% range passed a corrosion test introduced in 1942.
   

6. 
   

7. In the mid-1950s, when the use of high-lift camshafts increased the potential for scuffing and wear, the phosphorus level contributed by ZDP was increased to the 0.08% range.
   

8. 
   

9. In addition, the industry developed a battery of oil tests (called sequences), two of which were valve-train scuffing and wear tests.
   

10. 
    

11. A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.
    

12. 
    

13. By the 1970s, increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in high-load engines, which otherwise could thicken to a point where the engine could no longer pump it. Because ZDP was an inexpensive and effective antioxidant, it was used to place the phosphorus level in the 0.10% range.
    

14. 
    

15. However, phosphorus is a poison for exhaust catalysts. So, ZDP levels have been reduced over the last 10-15 years. It's now down to a maximum of 0.08% for Starburst oils. This was supported by the introduction of modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.
    

16. 
    

17. Enough history. Let's get back to the myth that Starburst oils are no good for older engines. The argument put forth is that while these oils work perfectly well in modern, gasoline engines equipped with roller camshafts, they will cause catastrophic wear in older engines equipped with flat-tappet camshafts.
    

18. 
    

19. The facts say otherwise.
    

20. 
    

21. Backward compatibility was of great importance when the Starburst oil standards were developed by a group of experts from the OEMs, oil companies, and oil additive companies. In addition, multiple oil and additive companies ran no-harm tests on older engines with the new oils; and no problems were uncovered.
    

22. 
    

23. The new Starburst specification contains two valve-train wear tests. All Starburst oil formulations must pass these two tests.
    

24. 
    

25. - Sequence IVA tests for camshaft scuffing and wear using a single overhead camshaft engine with slider finger (not roller) followers.
    

26. 
    

27. - Sequence IIIG evaluates cam and lifter wear using a V6 engine with a flat-tappet system, similar to those used in the 1980s.
    

28. 
    

29. Those who hold onto the myth are ignoring the fact that the new Starburst oils contain about the same percentage of ZDP as the oils that solved the camshaft scuffing and wear issues back in the 1950s. (True, they do contain less ZDP than the oils that solved the oil thickening issues in the 1960s, but that's because they now contain high levels of ashless antioxidants not commercially available in the 1960s.)
    

30. 
    

31. Despite the pains taken in developing special flat-tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that new oils will wear out older engines.
    

32. 
    

33. Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will probably take 60 or 70 years for this one to die also.
    

34. - Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group
    

35.  
    

36. This has been floating around for a while. If you want to trust the the camshaft in you Barracuda to a modern low ZDDP off the shelf oil, that's up to you.  But for me, based on first hand experience, I don't. On a mild stock cam with soft springs, like a 318 2bbl or the mild GM v6 used in the study, you might be OK. My Barracuda wiped its cam around the time that memo was first released.
    

37. 
    

38. The aftermarket cam companies, as well as several engine builders tend to disagree with Mr. Olree on the ZDDP point. 
    

39. 
    

40. For full disclosure, I'm a dealer for a high ZDDP oil based on Pennsylvania crude and refined here as well.   
    

41. Rob McCall - '68 Fastback
    

Oil Additive

1. Archoil
   

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3ir3bg0ESU
   

3. Is an oil additive.
   

4. Jay Leno
   

Engine Painting

1. Engine paint is specifically designed to be tolerant to oils and chemicals.
   

Painting Engine Bay

1. Painting the engine bay along with the rest of the car in modern base/clear, two-stage paint is the way to go. Clear-coated paint will last longer, resist fading, and be more tolerant to oil and other fluids related to the engine and engine bay.
   

1. I cleaned and sanded most of what I could get to in the engine compartment. Everything was removed. I used a Rustoleum primer thinned with naptha. The primer went on with no problem.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

1. Mask off the K-member and give it a coat of black paint. Paint all the components in the engine bay their appropriate colors, will make your engine bay look better than new.
   

Painting Engine

1. Paint the engine after it is rebuilt. Paint the engine DP 90 (made by PPG) then color coat. It takes care of any flash rusting and gives bite for Chrysler Corporate blue engine paint.
   

2. 
   

3. Paint the engine with acrylic urethane. At first it looks too shiny, but with use it dulls to the correct shine like the original. Most people use an air dry enamel with a semi-flat finish, but it will look worse than original after use.
   

4. Graveyard Cars
   

5. 
   

6. It’s recommended to paint the individual parts when they come back from the machine shop initially, because the parts should be clean and oil-free. Give it multiple layers of paint so if the top coat gets chipped, the engine will still have color underneath. Paint the engine, with 3 fairly light coats on it, waiting about 30 or 40 minutes between coats.
   

Painting Engine Parts

1. Using the "stock" color scheme, the brackets, pulleys and stuff will be black.
   

2. Michael Mosley - ‘6
   

Painting Freeze Plugs

1. Brass plugs expand and contract during heat cycles, causing the paint to flake off. Therefore install brass plugs after painting. Steel core plugs can be installed and painted along with the block if you want.
   

Engine Color

1. If your car is a factory restoration, there are countless resources, both online and in print, to tell you what color the engine was originally. Chrysler used many colors including turquoise, several oranges, red, and blue over the years, and sometimes multiple engine colors in a single year.
   

2. 
   

3. Color also depends on the year of the car and what engine they were using at the time. '68s were red and later years were the blue.
   

1. In 1968 EVERY 340 engine was red. Things changed at some point in the 1969 model year.
   

2. http://www.turbinecar.com/misc/enginecolor.htm
   

1. The hemi orange color would be stock for '69, but not for '68. Big block motors in '68 would be Turquoise color.
   

2. Nathan Nutthal - ‘6
   

Aftermarket Engine Colors Manufacturers

1. Those factory engine paint colors are available in spray can form from companies like Summit Racing.
   

2. 
   

3. I finished painting my engine compartment and trunk. I used Martin Senour paint from NAPA. I'm not real satisfied with the paint. It's supposed to be formulated to match the original metallic maroon. It actually looks more like a candy apple maroon to me. I thought it had a lot of metallic when it was mixed. It also seemed to take a lot of paint for the coverage. I mixed according to the counterman's recommendation ratio, 8-4-1 paint, reducer, hardener. I definitely will not use it for the body. If anybody has painted the metallic maroon and has a brand and formula, please pass it on to me. 
   

4. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

5. 
   

6. First, the paint seemed more of a tint than paint. There really didn't seem to be a lot of pigment. When I bought the paint, the counterman gave me a pamphlet with the correct Chrysler colors, very old pamphlet. He explained that their system no longer used those old codes and he called someone to get the new computer codes. I looked at the paint before paying for it, but you can only tell so much about looking in a can.
   

7. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Painting Engine with Spray Gun

1. I normally use a small Kobalt gravity feed gun in tight places such as that, but I had a problem with the top on the paint cup so I switched to a new, larger gun. I had never used that gun before. The paint didn't "lay down" as I would have liked. Kinda looks like it has sand under it. Maybe the paint isn't compatible with the primer. Most everything will eventually be hidden so I guess I can live with it. I stay around 45 psi on pressure. I always use a regulator to regulate my pressure and never use the adjuster on the gun. I do use the adjusters for paint volume and fan.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Painting Engine Timing Marks

1. Get a white pen from Michael's craft store to paint the engine timing marks and numbers. It takes a very steady hand. It is important to take it slow, to have a solid base to rest both your hands on (or maybe learn how to use one of those sign painting sticks. Remember to wipe off any excess paint that builds up on the pen tip.
   

2. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
   

3. 
   

383 engine stock oil pan

1. Length of the stock oil dipstick tube and dipstick?
   

2. 383 in an original-318 68 fastback. 383 engine has a chrome dipstick and tube...probably aftermarket.
   

3. 
   

4. 1) Just checking what the stock dipstick tube length should be?
   

5. Please specify length as measured from the point on the dipstick tube that is at the engine block (don't count the part of the tube that enters the block) to the top end of the dipstick tube where the dipstick would enter.
   

6. 
   

7. 2) While we're at it, what is the stock dipstick length -- measure from "full" mark to the part of the dipstick that stops it from going any further into the dipstick tube.
   

8. 
   

9. 3) Also, my dipstick tube pulls right out of the block. It has no bracket (ear) holding it in.
   

10. I recall aftermarket dipstick tubes have a mounting ear...what does this ear bolt to? An exhaust manifold bolt? An engine mount bolt?
    

11. Ed
    

Engine  Specification Reference Data

1. At www.Rosevillemoparts.com they have this set of cross-references. These are on several other sites, but this set is pretty handy:
   

2. 
   

3. http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/reference_enginetrans.php
   

4. 
   

5. The first one, labeled "Engine Specifications 1966-1974" is actually a bellhousing cross-reference.
   

6. 
   

7. Check the bottom-left of page -- they also have cross-references for paint, casting numbers, and radiators.
   

8. 
   

9. Very easy to print from. From the Engine Bolt Torque Spec table, I highlighted the LA section, put the cursor in the middle of the highlighted area, right clicked and printed. Put it in a page protector and tacked it to garage wall.
   

10. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
    

Engine Spec

Year         Engine/Disp.               Bore/Stroke     Compression   Horsepower @ RP M   Torque @ RPM      Oil

                                                         Ratio                                                                       Pressure

                        1969  V8-318  2-bbl3.91 x 3.31    9.2:1    230 @4400   340 @ 2400   45-65

                        1970  V8-318  2-bbl3.91 x 3.31    8.8:1   230 @ 4400   320 @ 2000   45-65

Breather Cap

1. The breather cap color was black in ’66, chrome in ’67.
   

Engine Costs

1. 20 years ago, parts & machine work were close to $2000. Today, $3k would be a good number to use for a rebuild.
   

2. 
   

3. My recent experience losing the cam lobe on my 340 ended up costing me over $1200. That's for a quick cylinder hone, polishing the crank, new bearings, & gaskets. Spend a little more and know it's right.
   

4. Josh Walton - ‘68 Vert
   

5. 
   

6. 
   

7. I just dug up receipts for the recent work on my 440 block and heads.
   

8. Machining = $1530
   

9. Parts          = $2125
   

10. Total         = $3655
    

11. 
    

12. Machining/Labor Included:
    

13. Bore, Resurface Block, Install Cam Bearings, Grind Crank, Balance, Press Pins, Align Rods, Install Seats and Guides, Valve Job, Resurface Heads, and remove some broken studs.
    

14. 
    

15. The parts included everything needed including cam, oil pump and a balancer along with the full kit needed. This is a very reputable shop in Paso Robles.
    

16. Alan