General Information

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Dash Restoration

1. There are two parts to dashboard restoration. The instruments in the dash of most Mopars are notorious for simply not working. Electrical circuitry in the '60s and '70s was not designed to still be operating 40 years later.
   

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3. For the second part, the dashboard itself suffer years of abuse from the elements. The sun erodes the paint and hazing the clear plastic that covers the gauges. It's nearly impossible to make your dash look like it did when it left the factory unless you have the ability to rechrome plastic in your garage. Also, gauge faces that are extremely weathered or faded can really only be properly repaired by stripping them and reprinting the face or replacing the gauge face with a better quality used one.
   

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Dashboard Instrument Cluster

1. Take lots of digital pics as you disassemble the console so you know how things go back together. It looks pretty simple but there are a number of pieces involved (like nylon guide rails for the sliding ashtray cover).
   

Removing the Instrument Cluster Panel & Knobs

1. Start with dabs of paint dots on the ends of all the components and a matching spot on the mating surface (numbers would work too). When you put things back together, just match up the dots.
   

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3. Begin by removing the Phillips head screws from the front of the cluster panel to free it from the dash itself, and then disconnect the electrical and instrument connections from the rear of the panel so it can be removed from the car.
   

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7. It's always easier to work on a component like the dash on a workbench. Before removing switches and heater controls, the knobs must be removed. Heater control knobs have a set screw on the bottom that can be loosened with an Allen wrench.
   

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To Remove the Headlight Knob

1. Depress the spring-loaded release button on the bottom of the switch, the knob and shaft are easily removed from the front of the switch.
   

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3. There is a special tool to remove the round nuts that hold the emergency flasher, headlight, ignition, and wiper switches in place. Buy using a small screwdriver in the grooves, you can unthread these nuts without damaging anything if your careful.
   

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5. Turn-signal, brake, and high-beam indicator lenses are all held in place by both adhesive rings and the plastic of the dash board. Gentle pressure from the dash side is usually enough to pop them out of the dash.
   

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“The Dashboard Boogie”

1. You can replace the instrument cluster without taking the whole dash out. This move/maneuver is known within the group as "the dash board boogie". Be prepared to put your legs over the back of your front seat....hence the boogie. You pull the entire instrument cluster and dropping the steering column can give you some extra room. Tricky parts are the headlight switch, wiring, and the heater controls.
   

2. You can pull the speedometer out just by dropping the steering wheel.
   

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Professional Dash Restoration

1. Companies like OEM and Autoinstruments will completely refurbish your dash to better-than-new standards, but the cost of professional dash restoration is high.
   

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3. Instrument Specialties (back east) will restore your complete dash to OEM specs. Color, shape, missing parts, testing, labeled, etc.
   

4. Graveyard Cars
   

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6. GCAR in Washington state can rechrome your dash & gauge cluster. Not cheap but it's the only way to get that finish. There are very few companies that will do this (plastic vacuum plating and detailing) anymore.
   

7. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback
   

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9. Vacuum Orna-Metal in Romulus Michigan can replate your dash. They will plated and refinished the dash, glove box trim, polished the gauge faces, and the plated arm rest bases. Total cost was around $460. Very nice work. Turn around time was about 3 weeks.
   

10. Their website is:http://vacuumorna-metal.com
    

11. Dan Tomczak - ‘69 Conv.
    

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13. Just Dashes Pads that will redo your dash pads like new, but again they are not cheap.
    

14. Mike Jarvie - ‘6
    

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18. Michael Mancini Instrument Specialties
    

19. 65 Foliage Dr.
    

20. North Kingston, RI. 0265?
    

21. (401) 267-0055
    

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Aftermarket Dash

1. PG Classics makes a dash. Wait until they have one of their 20% off sales and get it from them. The lenses are extra and are about $250 by themselves. There is a difference in one of the mounting bases.
   

2. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
   

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4. On the PG Classics bezel, slight adjustments should be made to the lens frame tabs to line up with the mount studs. The top reinforcement plate also needed to have the leading edge milled down 1"16" so the factory screw holes would line up. This is due to the repop casting edge is not as deep for the plate.
   

DIY Simple Restoration

1. There are some simple steps you can do to look and work better without sending out for repair and without any specialized tools.
   

Dashboard Parts Restoration

1. Steps to rebuild the dash bezel:
   

2.     clean and polish lenses - use Meguire’s ultra final finish and 100% cotton cloth. Figure 8 pattern.
   

3.     re-line center caps
   

4.     media blast lens frames and repaint
   

5.     install colored lenses and new gaskets
   

6.     install top reinforcement plate
   

DIY Full Restoration

1. To remove the complete dashboard, you have to remove the front windshield. Removal of the dash can be done with the window in, but is extremely difficult.
   

Disassemble Dashboard

1. Everything needs to be removed so the frame is completely bare. Remove in this order: speaker, vent hoses and vents, radio, glovebox liner, glovebox door cigarette lighter, wiring harness. When you disconnect the connectors, be careful with pins on the circuit board. Apparently this isn't an uncommon problem, and should be fixable.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

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6. When restoring dash, label all wires with names (dome light, tach, ...) make it idiot proof.
   

7. Graveyard Cars
   

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Instrument Cluster Removal

1. Remove in this order: Heater cables and vents, radio, glovebox door, cigarette lighter, wiring harness. When you disconnect the connectors, be careful with pins on the circuit board.
   

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Dashboard Restoration

1. Clean up the dash pad pieces with Mr Clean and a sponge, followed by Armor All. Do the same to the map light switch, cigarette lighter, ignition switch and ash tray. Supplies for those pieces include Simple Green, sand paper and steel wool. The pot metal pieces will cleaning up. With a little elbow grease and steel wool, they look like new again.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

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4. If you want to safely strip off the chrome plating and paint from a plastic dash, there's only one thing to use: Castrol Super Clean.
   

Carb cleaner WILL melt the plastic.

Easy Off oven cleaner WILL make the plastic brittle.

409 WILL make the plastic soft. Same for Pine Sol.

I've been using the Castrol for stripping built-up model cars for a while now without any adverse effects to the plastic, including clear plastic. Just make sure you use a plastic container and preferably a sealed lid. Let it soak overnight. Use an old toothbrush to loosen the stuborn areas. Rinse with warm water and let it air dry. You should have bare plastic to work with.

1. The following should show as chromed:
   

- raised edges around headlight and wiper knobs and flasher

- any raised part around the gauges (don't forget to have the centers replated)
- raised edges around radio push buttons and dial face

- raised edges separating the black from the silver and around the outside

- surface including attaching screw holes that are not seen from above
- around radio knobs (not sure, but likely)

1. Best matching paint for the silver is Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403, if you can find it.
   

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Dashboard Reassembly

1. Bolting things back on: ash tray, cigarette lighter, switches. Add the knobs. Attach glove box. Hook the replacement wiring harness back up. If you use the old one, check for continuity with a multi-meter. Bolt in tach. Replace all bulbs just in case. Now test as many things as you can, like the instrument lights, radio, glovebox light, etc. Wire up the tach. Splice the instrument light and power wires into the radio. Also clamp the defrost hoses to the vents. At this point, except for the upper dash pad, the dash is ready to install.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

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4. Clean up the bolts that hold the dash in place. Bolt on the upper dash pad, etc.
   

Dash Frame to A pillar Bolts

1. The finish could be Phosphate or Clear zinc.
   

Upper Dash Frame to Cowl Screws

1. The finish could be Phosphate or Clear zinc.
   

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Dashboard Installation

1. You will now need help putting the dashboard assembly in place. So the dashboard installation goes smoothly; here's what what to do:
   

2. 1. Get the dash placed on the two lower screws, to support it
   

3. 2. While one holds the dash to stop it from rotating and falling on the floor, the other person connects the heater controls and heater wiring
   

4. 3. While one supports the left side of the dash, the other removes the screw on the left side
   

5. 4. One then lowers the left side of the dash a bit to insert it over the studs on the bracket that's welded to the firewall, then raise it back into position
   

6. 5. Now replace the left hand screw
   

7. 6. At that point, just rotate the dash forward and attach it to the cowl
   

8. 7. The rest of the time is spent on connecting all the wiring. Test things like the heater fan and the wipers.
   

9. 8. Clamp the defrost hoses to the heater box.
   

10. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
    

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Instrument Panel Grounding

1. Many people over the last 20-some years have called here with this same basic question: “Something is wrong electrically with my instrument panel lights and gauges. I have removed, restored, and reinstalled the dash frame. Now, lights don’t light right, the alternator gauge isn’t reading right, the turn signals don’t work right, and none of the small gauges work. What is wrong?”
   

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3. When you removed the instrument panel frame, blasted it, nicely and thoroughly painted it, and reinstalled it into the also nicely painted body of the car, you forgot that the dash frame, and the instrument cluster, and the switch cluster, and the steering column must all be well-grounded.
   

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5. Notice the bolts with the huge free-spinning washers on the extreme lower corners of the dash frame-to-body. One, if not both, of those washers must have a bare, clean contact to the dash frame. The washer itself must be grounded to its bolts, and the bolt must be grounded to the car body via its threads.
   

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7. The instrument cluster must be grounded to the dash frame. Originally one or more of the tabs that receive the instrument cluster mount screws was bare metal. That allows cluster housing contact to dash frame.
   

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9. Cars with a separate switch cluster, or separate individually mounted switches, must also be mounted so there is a ground contact. This is especially true for the rheostat that controls the dash illumination level and the dome light and console lights.
   

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11. You might get lucky by simply running the screws that mount the clusters in and out several times, instead of removal and cleaning paint.
    

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13. The car body itself must be grounded, as must the engine. On older cars, a heavy wire stranded cable connects the engine to the body firewall. This must be a true ground, not just eyelet pressing onto the paint of the firewall and engine paint.
    

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15. Later cars have an auxiliary cable from the battery negative cable to the car body. There are some requirements here as for engine-body. If this cable is not truly grounded, bizarre conditions will exist throughout the car’s electrical system.
    

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17. A final note about park lamp bulbs, tail lamp bulbs, and brake lamp bulbs: If you install an incorrect bulb, or install it backwards by forcing it into the “foolproof” socket, or have a defective bulb, you will have bizarre light operation.
    

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19. Some bulbs may go out when the brake pedal is depressed, or some may get brighter that should not.
    

20. Also, a defective turn signal switch and/or an ungrounded steering column may be the cause of these conditions. A thickly-applied interior paint job may cause a poor ground, not just no ground.
    

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Dashboard Instrument Cluster Restoration

1. The black on the dash cluster has a texture. It was applied and painted black at the factory.
   

Dashboard Prep & Paint

1. Paint the entire dash frame with SEM Trim Black. It's extremely close to the original.
   

2. Paint the entire dash black. Tape off the areas you want to remain black and then paint the dash with silver spray paint (called silver argent) over the black. Then tape off the silver and paint the areas that will be chrome. While chrome spray paint won't have the luster of actually having the dash plastic-chromed, it will be brighter than silver spray paint and give the contrast of the original color scheme. Note: Eastwood spray is not worth the effort.
   

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4. Spray paint the lower half of the dash with a color called silver argent. It can be ordered from a Chrysler dealer in spray can form.
   

5. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

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7. I buy the Krylon "semi-flat black" (#1613) and the "dull aluminum" (#1403) satin finish from Film Tools in Burbank, California by the case about once a year. I don't think Krylon sells the good enamel paints through regular stores to the public any longer. I think it has been regulated to "industrial use" only.
   

8. Film Tools at www.filmtools.com ships anywhere,. Michael Mosley - ‘68 Coupe
   

9. For UV protection, I use automotive enamel paints. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for!
   

10. Jim Conner - ’68
    

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12. Paints used on the gauge cluster. Here are the particulars: •argent - Dupli-Color Wheel Paint (Steel Finish) •black - SEM Trim Black •chrome - Krylon Chrome
    

13. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
    

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15. Dashboard is painted in a matte finish not gloss so as not to cause reflection.
    

Dashboard Circuit Board

1. If redoing the entire electrical system on the back of the dash, the key here is to get your circuit boards built bullet proof.
   

2. Dana Price
   

1. The board should be blue for ’67 and green for ’68 - ’69.
   

2. All should have copper traces connecting the contact pins to the respective items.
   

1. Disassembled the bezel/gauge cluster. Remove the retaining nuts for the switches that go through the bezel (flasher, head lights, wipers).
   

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3. With the dash face separated, clean it with soap and water. Scuff the surfaces with #400 Scotch-Brite pad. Just clean it with a light soap and water mixture, towel dry and let sit in the open air for a few days. You can use a pencil eraser to clean the film off the printed wiring traces. You only need to clean the areas that make electrical contact, such as grounding screws, dash light sockets, and gauge nuts. I used the edge of an x-acto knife to very lightly scrape the connector plug pins, because they can easily break off. Also, I've never done it, but there are instructions on the internet for how to clean electrical conductors using using a vinegar/salt solution, then neutralizing the vinegar/salt using a water/baking soda solution.
   

4. Ron Evans - ‘67 coupe, ’67 vert
   

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6. What part of the board are you cleaning?
   

7. If it is where the pin mounts and you need to solder a new pin on to the board, the pencil eraser works after gently scraping off the protective green coating so the area is bright copper, then wipe with denatured alcohol to remove residue, then quickly solder the base of the pin or brass brad to the board with a low wattage soldering iron - too much heat will lift the circuit trace.
   

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9. To just get grime off the board you can use Simple Green, dish soap and water. Gently wash well with a soft brush, first with Simple Green, then the dish soap and water - you don't want to lift any circuit traces by scrubbing hard - then air dry thoroughly. A hair dryer on low will initially help. The board has to be thoroughly dry before you use it.
   

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11. Denatured alcohol and a soft brush work for oil based crud.
    

12. If you do happen to lift a circuit trace just lay it back down on the board as best you can and secure it with epoxy (JB Weld works great) - it doesn't matter if the epoxy goes over the trace because the epoxy is non-conductive.
    

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14. If you lift a trace and break it you can fix the connection by putting the broken piece back on the board with epoxy and either soldering the two pieces together (you have to scrape off the green protective coating first, use a low wattage soldering iron - about 12 watts -, and do it quickly), or using conductive paint that is sold in electronic supply stores (you have to also first remove the protective coating) applied with a tooth pick (cut the pointed end off to form the applicator width of your choice)
    

15. The best contact/switch/connection cleaner out there is DE-OXIT (watch out for the rip off copy called De-Oxid). Use very sparingly, apply with a tooth pick to individual pins, contacts etc. The little bottle goes a LONG way.
    

16. Steve Toth
    

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Repair Circuit Board Instrument Pins

1. There are copper pins in the back of the instrument cluster. I doubt you will be able to find one of the pins unless someone has a scrap panel. You can always use a piece of copper house wiring, probably 12 gauge. You just solder it in in place of the pin.
   

2. https://www.flickr.com/photos/barracudabetty/
   

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4. Some people use brass brads (nails) with small heads for the broken pins. Leave the head on it and pass it through the board and solder in place.
   

5. Rob Robinson - ‘68 FB
   

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7. Brass and copper brads from the hardware store work fine. Unsolder the broken pin - CAUTION: do not use too much heat or you will lift the circuit board trace. Use a "solder sucker" to remove the solder - looks like a mechanical version of your wife's turkey baster, available through Radio Shack, etc.
   

8. Insert the brad with the head to the bottom of the circuit board. Solder into place on the circuit board trace hole, and snip to correct length. JB Weld epoxy around the based of the pin for strength so you never have to do this again (its OK to epoxy over traces on circuit boards. In fact if you accidentally overheat the board and lift a trace, it's a good way to repair the board). NOTE: When I was rebuilding my dash I checked all the pins to see if any of them were loose while I had the board out. I replaced anything I thought might be suspect, resoldered anything I thought might need to be resoldered, and epoxied around the bases of all the pins after that.
   

9. Steve Toth - ‘6
   

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11. What I did this time worked amazingly well. You may have corroded contacts, and what you can't see is the floppy pins on both circuit boards. I used copper upholstery tacks. Their sharp end wedge shape lends VERY well for this job, and they have a wide low profile head on them. You push them in from the back, and if need be tap lightly to sink them in place. Clean the front well, flux, solder and clean all contacts. Having some buffing equipment helped, but not a must. One can use 0000 steel wool.
    

12. Dana Price
    

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14. Some say the butt end of the copper tack should be filed down so they don't make contact with anything on that side. I used clay to gauge the depth to make sure the tack heads would not touch the housing. No contact.
    

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16. Check the board for breaks in the conductive path to and from the pins by using a meter if you want to, but with this setup, you would have to break the board in half to break it. Very wide path and very thick. Not painted on stuff like today.
    

17. Dana Price
    

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Removing Lenses & Dividers

1. New safety regulations went into effect in ‘69. That is why the centers of the gauge bezels are blacked out, instead of all chrome like they were on ‘67s.
   

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3. The gauge lenses and dividers are held in place by the plastic of the dash itself. Tabs from the back of the dashboard run through holes in the lenses and dividers, and are then melted to hold everything in place. Next, remove the plastic lenses from the bezel. One way is to melt the plastic “mushrooms” with a soldering iron. Use a soldering iron to remelt the plastic tabs in place during reassembly.
   

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5. To remove them, simply remelt the plastic with a soldering iron. Melt the least amount of plastic possible, however, so you'll have some left to hold the lenses in place during reassembly. With the switches and heater controls removed, the gauge panel can be unscrewed from the dash face and the metal frame holding the gauges can be removed from the plastic dash face.
   

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7. Another way is by using a Dremel cutting bit to saw off the edges of the plastic "mushrooms" that hold everything together, and then trimming them the rest of the way using a small utility knife.
   

8. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

1. If you are going through the trouble of converting to LED and you have the dash out, go ahead and cut out the blue filters. I would recommend drilling out the little rivets so you could always convert back if you wanted to. The inside of the housing is flat white. That is good as it reduces chances for shiny spots.
   

Lenses & Dividers Restoration

1. With minor scratches in the lenses, plastic cleaner/polisher will remove them. For discolored gauge lenses, use Meguiar's plastic polish to clean them up. You’ll be amazed at how much clearer the lenses are. Rubbing compound is more abrasive, will reduce the scratch quicker, but also scuff the plastic a bit. But by following that up with cleaner and then polish (yes, 3 steps), they are nice and clear again.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Lens Bezel Restoration

1. The bezel is the PG Classics ‘68 dash bezel with glove box trim piece. When you get it you have to reuse all your lenses and lense frames for the gauges, as well as turn signal lenses, brake and high beam lenses. Also the top support reinforcement plate. I used a dremmel tool with a 1/32" ball end to remove lenses and frames as well as the turn signal lenses. All of them are melted in place from the factory. I also used a dental tool to apply and spread the J.B. Weld. It's handy as its hard to get down to the lower frame mounts.
   

2. Dana Price
   

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4. Media blast using fine glass substrate. Get it ready for primer and satin paint. Look closely and see where surface rust is blistering the paint in some spots and trails under the paint.
   

5. Dana Price
   

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7. Sand the bezel in preparation for painting. Remove any old, flaking paint. Remove the wood graining (if on yours) also, and use some solvent to remove the adhesive. Masking / painting can begin. Put a couple coats of Trim Black on it.
   

8. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

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10. Be SURE to test fit gauge lens frames to the bezel before getting too far into it. You may need to bend to fit the tabs slightly. You want them to drop in place smoothly. No binding up. In fitting the lens bezels I had to grind a bit of the tab to clear a mount hole slightly. The plastic here is thicker than factory. The correct way to attach this is to melt the pin over, say using a blade tip on a soldering iron. However, I'm going to use quick set J.B.
    

11. Dana Price
    

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13. Use a soldering iron to remelt the plastic tabs in place, the lenses and lens dividers can be reinstalled in the dashboard. Bench test all the gauges before putting them back in their housing. Reinstall the gauge panel to the plastic dashboard. Bolt the bezel to the gauge housing and then that assembly back onto the dash frame.
    

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Dashboard Gauges

1. Gauge faces were silk screened at the factory.
   

Dashboard Gauge Prep & Paint

1. Clean the gauge faces with a brush and repaint the tips of the faded orange needles. Badly corroded or faded gauge faces should either be replaced or sent off to be reprinted.
   

Dashboard Gauge Overlay

1. WhiteGauges.net make overlays. They didn't have the correct overlay for the 120 mph, no odometer face. I called them and told them what I needed and they fixed me up. The overlays are real easy to apply. Order them before you replace the dash bezel.
   

2. http://www.whitegauges.net/categories/Plymouth/Barracuda/1967%252d1969/
   

3. Jim Conner - ’67 Cuda
   

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5. Odometer '67-’68 speedometers had the numbers in a radial pattern.
   

6. '67 uses a threaded speedometer cable, '68 a clip on.
   

7. '67 had a radial pattern to the tach, '68 and up had the vertical numbers.
   

8. '69 Barracuda and '70-71 A-body Rallye dash had the speedometer with vertical numbers.
   

Repair Gauges

1. The most common problem that makes most Mopar gauges not work properly are the pins for the wiring harness. They were pressed into the dash circuit board at the factory and have a habit of becoming corroded and not making a proper connection.
   

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3. Dab a bit of solder on each pin where it presses into the circuit board, to ensure good electrical conductivity. Test the gauges using an auto battery charger on its lowest setting. Ground the dash, then touch the positive lead from the battery charger to each individual wiring harness pin. Test each circuit of the dash, including lights and gauges.
   

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5. Note: You can't test if the gauge is calibrated properly, needle movement only indicates the gauge will work.
   

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Knobs Prep

1. Use fine 0000 steel wool on the radio and switch knobs.
   

Instrument Lights

1. Instrument light domes in the instrument cluster are blue. The turn signals are green lens and high beam and parking signals are red.
   

2. Replace the bulbs even if your dash lights worked. It's a lot easier now than than on the car.
   

Incandescent Bulbs

1. For lights to use in the gauge cluster were #158, but #168 was recommended for more light.
   

2. #168’s are the brightest incandescent bulbs available, but they are too dark for effective instrument illumination. The root cause of dim instrument illumination seems to be the blue domes over those bulbs. Take off the blue domes, and also repaint the inside of the instrument cluster housing with a brighter white.
   

3. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

LED Replacement Bulbs

1. Due to the issue and pain in the butt of trying to replace bulbs, install LED direct replacement bulbs that you can dim. Cheap on ebay, available at local parts stores and an easy job to do.
   

2. Dana Price
   

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4. Make sure you get a quality LED as some may not fit, or cause spotty lighting. Do your research on selective discussion boards.
   

5. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback
   

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7. These LED are bright but do not dim. They are great for turn signal lamps, hi-beam and parking brake on. I used them for the dash cluster because I don’t need the dim feature. O’Reilly has them.
   

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11. Someone said to use the type of LED that shines from the side and not the front, also, the max. length of the bulb. I just decided to order the bulbs and bench test.
    

12. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

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14. I installed them on my car. You want T5 or T10 bases. I used the T10's. They dim just fine.
    

15. The T10 is the socket type. The ones I ordered (ebay) are the cheapos that look like a regular bulb - They were around .50 each. Takes about 3 wks to get them from Hong Kong. Some of the other types claim to have any number of elements. I'll probably go with a much more reputable bulb for the long run. They don't look to be the easiest bulbs to replace! LED lights for the instrument light sockets are indeed T10. The LED bulbs are polarized according to positive or negative. It's best to test the polarity before the dash cluster installation. If the bulb doesn't work, take the socket out and rotate it 180 degrees.I used the 5 panel LED bulbs for mine because they shine light in all directions. The LED's that look kinda like regular bulbs shine primarily forward. They are good for the turn indicator bulbs.
    

16. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

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18. I have now have bright instrument illumination lights! For the instrument illumination lights, used the type of bulbs recommended by Darwin and they work great. Expensive, but will never need to be replaced. Price was $9.49 for 2. Need 4 bulbs total for instrument illumination. Bought them from MiniInTheBox.com, because they were the only place I could find that sold them. There are other bulbs that look identical, but are too tall and would hit the blue domes that cover the instrument illumination bulbs. Here is the LED bulb data sheet:
    

19. https://www.miniinthebox.com/p/t10-1210-5l-car-led-ultra-white-light-bulb_p164685.html
    

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21. For the other dash lights (turn, brake, high beam) I used bulbs recommended by Ray Kuter. These are much brighter than the 168 bulbs, and even cost less than the 168’s, but because these bulbs shine most of their light out of the top, they don't work well for instrument illumination.
    

22. https://www.miniinthebox.com/p/t10-6-1210-smd-white-led-car-signal-lights-2-pack-dc-12v_p349975.html?litb_from=sysmail
    

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24. Dan on Fabo suggested that a lot of the problem with the LED's is that most of them shine directly ahead and not to the side as a conventional incandescent bulb. They look exactly the same as the ones purchased for the other dash lights, turn, brake and high beam. At least I can use them for that. I am going to remove the blue caps when I bench test the lights. I'm trying white, red and blue.
    

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26. There doesn't seem to be a standard of each bulb's power - illumens, watts, or whatever. I just picked similar bulbs in the various colors for the experiment. I anticipate I will have to buy the type of bulbs you used for the gauge illumination light.
    

27. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

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29. There was another bulb that was labeled T10 5x5050 that was probably brighter than the T10 5x1210, but it was a little too tall to fit under the dome. I did the LED's in my dash. I would recommend the "5-panel" style bulbs that best emulate the incandescents. They have 4 panels on the sides and one panel on the top. That way you get light in all directions.
    

30. 
    

31. You have to be careful to test the bulbs after installed to make sure you have the correct polarity. They're diodes - they only work one way. They work great for the dash, especially for those of us that don't see very well in the dark these days.
    

32. 
    

33. Just install the LED bulbs in place of the factory ones. Use dimming LED bulbs. Direct fitment. Purchase off ebay.
    

34. Dana Price
    

35. 
    

36. I just installed Brite White LED bulbs in place of my four #168 dash illumination bulbs. What a difference! I can see the gauges no problem! I picked the LED's up at O'Reilly's auto parts. A little more expensive buying them there but I was impatient.
    

37. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Cool-White-194-168-T10-LED-Bulbs-W-Sockets-Instrument-Panel-Gauge-Lights-/181899166618?%20hash=item2a5a09039a:g:UIcAAOSwT5tWGW6F&vxp=mtr
    

38. Wiff
    

LED Bulbs Installation

1. They come with the correct fitting. Just plug em into the dash.
   

2. Dana Price
   

3. 
   

4. LED lights have a polarity, so if they don't light up try reversing them. Also, the leads on some types don't line up with the contacts on the sockets. For those, you can just bend out the leads a little so they make good contact.
   

5. 
   

Bulbs Socket

1. There are a couple of different styles of these. Take an old one with you. Some of the new sockets the brass contact arms are shorter and harder to make contact to the boards. Bend up the contacts.
   

2. Get the ones for a 5/8" hole. I got mine at NAPA.
   

3. Jim Conner
   

4. 
   

5. 

   
   

6. 
   

7. I seen these in blister packs at Autozone.
   

8. Jesse Rivera
   

1. LED bulbs will fit in these.
   

Fuse Box

1. The fuse box is located on the drivers side of the dash just to left of the steering column. It is held to the bottom of the dash frame with one self-tapping screw. A thin plastic velum covers the wires to keep dust off of them. This is usually brittle or gone after 50 years.
   

2. 
   

3. 

          

   

   
   

4. 
   

Fuse Box Problems

1. Fuse box terminals invite corrosion and eventually will fail. If your fuse box terminals are corroded, they can be a pain in the butt to get clean. Wire insulation can get brittle over time, particularly under the hood. Many wiring problems are caused by what other owners have added in the past. Another common connector problem is broken retaining clips on the bulkhead plugs.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

3. 
   

4. Sometimes the blades on the back of the fuse box become loose. Fuse box terminals invite corrosion and eventually will fail. If your fuse box terminals are corroded, they can be a pain in the butt to get clean.
   

Fuse Box Restoration

1. Think about taking it apart, cleaning it up, soldering the loose connection, and then putting it all back in. Be sure to label all of the wires before you start taking it apart.
   

2. Good dielectric grease is an absolute must when reassembling wire connectors.
   

Aftermarket Fuse Box

1. I purchased the RTA 88 fuse panel from Hay Wire. www.haywireinc.com. It is expensive, but I felt it was worth it. This fuse panel comes with seven fuses, 2 flashers, horn relay and radiator fan relay. So I can make some room under the dash by removing the horn relay and flashers. I extended all of the wires so that I can work on the fuse panel while it is on the driver's side floor board. The instrument lights are actually brighter and the tail-lights work again.
   

1. When you buy a dash wiring harness made from M & H Electric, the fuse box is included.
   

2. A. Garrido - ’69 FB
   

Reproductions on ebay

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-64-65-66-67-68-69-70s-NOS-MoPar- FUSE-BLOCK-Cuda-GTX-Runner-300-Fury-Dart-GT-/ 400460648208#vi-content).
   

Fuses

1. Fuses come in different sizes. Which ones you need depend on your circuit. Check the Chrysler Parts Fuse Guide to determine what you need.
   

2. 
   

3. 

   
   

4. 
   

Dash Wiring Harness

Main Dash Buss - Underdash Wiring

1. The red wire with white trace feeds the dome lamp, cigar lighter, emergency flashers and stop/tail lights fuse blade and dash lights.
   

2. 
   

3. The blue wire with the yellow end is the fusible link that protects the entire system.
   

4. The stop / tail lights feed into the headlamp switch (L8-18Pink). The headlamp switch then feeds the instrument panel (E1-18Tan).
   

5. 
   

6. View this wiring diagram: http://www.jefframin.org/library/BarracudaDashWiring.jpg
   

7. 
   

8. Factory splice under dash from alternator Wiring on a ‘68 fastback
   

9. If you unraveled the electrical tape from the factory splice there should be:
   

10. Black feed wire (from alternator)
    

11. Black wire with trace (goes to headlamp switch)
    

12. Red wire with trace (goes to fuse-block)
    

13. Violet wire (goes to horn relay)
    

14. Red wire (goes to ignition switch)
    

15. Black wire (goes to ammeter)
    

16. Jon
    

Additional Harness

1. There are different harnesses and add-on harnesses depending on the options on your car. My Dart wasn't ordered with a console tach, but it has one now, so I had to add the trigger wire to my original harness. My friend has a console tach in his car, and the part numbers for both harnesses are the same...the tach wire is added on the assembly line.
   

2. Darwin
   

1. The A01 light group was a set of additional small harnesses which simply plugged into the standard harness. It tended to include a glovebox light, a ignition switch light, a trunk light and maybe a console light (not sure on A-Body if that came with console or only with light group). You can add this option to your car.
   

2. 
   

3. If you look at the wiring for these items in the factory service manual, you can see where they hook into open connections in the main harness. The glove box light is simple and connects to orange wires with a bullet connector into a 3 way female near the ash tray. The trunk light involves a wire which runs from the trunk to the left kick panel and has male and female connectors which put it in the middle of another circuit. The ignition light includes the light mount itself with a blue plastic bulb cover in the bracket and a small silver cylinder with a capacitor for the timer which turns off the light. I forget exactly where this wires in, but it goes into a circuit which includes the driver side door switch similar to the dome light circuit.
   

4. 
   

5. The factory service manual will show you all the details and wire color codes and give you are cartoon picture of the connectors. Once you study it a little against some circuits you do have, you’ll get used to their style. Lots of info in those wiring diagrams including colors, gauge of wire and connector types. Only thing lacking is actual wire lengths and locations of connectors.
   

6. Todd Rimmer - ‘6
   

Aftermarket Dash Wiring Harness

1. The generic harnesses that are sold by Classic, and by many other places, are made by M&H. Laysons, Herbs, Mega Parts USA have pieces.
   

1. Buy M&H from YearOne. They are the best out there. Made specifically for each car, the YearOne harness is simply "plug and play." The connectors come pregreased, so they are literally ready to install. Notice the open slots. Often, depending on the application, this will be the case, which will allow you to add additional circuits that might be specific to your car.
   

2. 
   

3. Darren at M&H is very patient and very good at answering questions, so give them a call. They will reproduce the sub-harness you are looking for if you bring them your original harness to work from.
   

4. They are located in Santa Fe Springs.
   

5. http://www.wiringharness.com/
   

6. Ron Evans - ’67 Conv
   

7. 
   

8. Evans Electric make wiring harnesses for mopars (and mopars only). They are very accurate. They are a supplier to these larger reproductions companies like Classic Industries. Evans Electric is a mom and pop joint. They get high marks. http://www.evanswiring.com
   

9. Enrique Aguirre
   

Circuit Board Pin Enhancement: Dash Pin Repair

“The Dana Method”

1. For circuit board pin enhancement, I’ve done this several ways in the past, and all worked well. What I used this time worked amazingly well.
   

2. 
   

3. For corroded contacts and floppy pins on both circuit boards, I used copper upholstery tacks. Their sharp end wedge shape lends VERY well for this job, and they have a wide low profile head on them. You push them in from the back, and if need be tap lightly to sink them in place. Clean the front well, flux, solder and clean all contacts. Having some buffing equipment helped, but not a must. One can use 0000 steel wool.
   

4. Dana Price
   

5. 
   

6. 

   
   

7. 
   

8. The copper tacks don't make contact with anything on the back side and don’t need to be filed thin. They fit just fine. I used clay to gauge the depth to make sure the tack heads would not touch the housing. No contact. But to be sure just in case I covered them with 2 layers of electrical tape. But there was room under them.
   

9. 
   

10. To check the board for breaks in the conductive path to and from the pins, you could use a meter if you wanted to, but this setup, you would have to break the board in half to break it. Very wide path and very thick. Not painted on stuff like today.
    

11. Dana Price
    

Headlight Switches

1. Headlight switches tend to baffle a lot of us, especially when lights don’t come on or they suddenly go dark on a country road. Headlight switches on most domestic cars are circuit-breaker protected. When contacts become corroded and dirty, resistance within the switch builds and they get hot. This is when the circuit breaker cycles headlights off and on, so you’ll have some available light to come to a safe stop. When this happens, replace the headlight switch and check for any potential short circuits in the headlight or parking light circuit.
   

Headlight Switches Removal

1. You pull the shaft out until it stops, then press the button and pull the shaft all the way out. Putting the shaft back in, you just push in until it clicks and locks.
   

2. Ed
   

3. 
   

4. 

   

   
   

5. 
   

6. Push in on it slightly before pushing the button. Maybe it was in a bind from pulling against it.
   

7. Stephen ‘Catfish’ Parker
   

8. 
   

9. If they haven’t come out for a while they can be pretty stubborn. Or, if your headlight switch has overheated (not uncommon), it can be encased in melted plastic.
   

10. Max
    

Dash Grounding

1. There is a ground wire for the dash. It's one of the wires in the big round connector behind the dash circuit board. The ground wire is solid. The strap goes from the dash frame to the the steering column mount bolt. This can be an issue when repainting or modifying. It relies on just the screws that hold the cluster in to the dash. It is recommended to attach a ground pigtail from at least one of the circuit board ground attach screws to the column ground point.
   

2. Gerald Drury
   

Instrument Light Removal

1. You’ll need to tilt open the dash to get to 3 of the 4 instrument illumination bulbs. If you can get to them with the dash in, you are a rock star! Otherwise, here is my drill for tilting the dash: remove the radio knobs, lower the steering column (remove 1 bolt, 2 nuts, and the plastic trim plate), place a towel over the steering column in front of the dash (prevents steering column paint from being scratched by the bottom of the dash), remove the speedometer cable, remove the dash screws, slightly move dash outward and insert small towels (or rags) between the bottom dash opening and the bottom of both the right and left ends of the dash, and let them hang down over the dash opening (prevents the lower dash paint from being scratched), rotate top of dash outward.
   

Instrument Light Installation

1. LED bulbs have a polarity. If they don't come on, remove the bulb holder from the printed wiring board, rotate 180, and re-install. In daylight with the bulb holder installed in the PWB, it is difficult to see if the bulb is lit, but you can see it by looking at the small gaps in the bulb holder where the PWB contacts are located. I used a mirror to look at some of the bulb holders. This is another reason to tilt out the dash.
   

2. 
   

3. The leads of the LED bulbs seat into a groove in their bases and when the bulb was inserted into the holder, the grooves did not align with the bulb holder contacts, resulting in no electrical contact. I used a knife blade to bend the leads out of the grooves and bend them toward the outside of the LED bases. It is easy to see if the leads are making contact with the bulb holder contacts.
   

4. 
   

5. Before closing up dash, check electrical functions to make sure connectors have not come loose. When checking electrical functions when dash is tilted out, it is a good idea to use a jumper wire to ground the instrument cluster metal frame.
   

6. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
   

Instrument Light Troubleshooting Back of a Light Cluster

1. A usual culprit for that light is the input power pin not making contact. The input power pin also provides power to the other instrument light located just to the right (left in picture) of the speedometer, so if that light is working, the input power connector is making contact. The other possible culprits are the printed wiring board traces, the ground, and the bulb socket contacts. The next easiest thing to check is the bulb socket contacts to make sure they are clean and sticking up far enough to make good contact with the PWB traces. O'Reilly has replacement sockets on the rack -- they are not exactly the same as the OE sockets, but they work. If that didn't fix the problem, I would have to tilt out the dash, and use a probe test light or voltmeter to check the voltage between the upper socket trace and metal chassis (I disconnect the battery before tilting out the dash, and then make sure no electrical contacts on the back of the dash are contacting the metal dash frame before I reconnect the battery. I also check to make sure the connector hasn't pulled off the back of the cluster -- it pulls off easily). If there is no voltage, I would try putting a jumper wire between the head of the ground screw and the cluster metal chassis, and recheck the voltage. If there is voltage, I would remove the ground screw and clean it and the trace under it. Other than that, there would have to be something wrong with the traces themselves or a bad contact between the traces and the bulb socket. The traces under the bulb socket can be cleaned with a stiff pencil eraser. It is easy (at least for me) to forget to turn the lights on or off while going through all this, so be advised.
   

2. Ron Evans - ‘67 Coupe
   

3. 
   

4. First of all, is the bulb good? No joke - recheck it in another location. I you have the other two bulbs lit on the circuit board then you are getting voltage to the bulb socket that isn't lighting since it is all one large, continuous trace on the pcb. That leaves:
   

5. 1.) a bad ground connection on the other side of the socket on the small short trace with the screw in it, or
   

6. 2.) contacts on the socket not making contact with the board. Check for a ground on that short trace - you can either use a test light (one probe/wire to the voltage trace and one to the ground trace) or an ohmmeter checking for a dead short from the trace to car body ground. If the bulb doesn't light or the ohmmeter shows an open circuit, you have a bad ground connection on that short trace - clean and retighten (the pencil eraser really works well).
   

7. 
   

8. If there is voltage on the large trace and a good ground on the short trace, the bulb socket is bad. Either try to reposition the copper contacts or get a new one at O'Reillys.
   

9. Steve
   

10. 
    

11. I once had a socket where one of the contacts had broken. So try switching sockets.
    

12. Someone advised to rotate the bulb holder 180 degrees if the LED doesn't light. That worked. I swapped the holders and that seemed to work too. Not sure why I was having problems with the 168's last night?
    

13. 
    

14. Bad news is the LEDs that I received are different, and slightly different in hue. However, the packing list and shipping email that I received says they are the same. Same goes for the packaging; but they are clearly not the same (visibly different). I am referring to the instrument illumination LEDs, not the turn-signal LEDs.
    

15. 
    

16. I'm not sure if I want to take the time to ship them back to MiniInTheBox.com (china). I think I will just go on Amazon and get two more there. I won't be using miniInTheBox again. Anyway, they are definitely brighter, but a little blue in color. They are not pure white in hue.
    

17. 
    

Dash Lights Stay On

1. Sometimes when you manually turn off the lights, the dash lights stayed on. Then when you turn off the ignition, the dash lights go off. Many times the rheostat for the dimmable dash lights goes bad in the headlight switch. The way to overcome this is to provide power to the dash light circuit from another 12V source. Until you replace the switch, put a little toggle switch under the dash.
   

2. Rob Robinson - ‘68 FB
   

Gauge Lights

Inop Gauges ‘68 FB

1. If your gauges stopped working, take out the dash and look for some broken pins. To repair the pins, try the solid brass brad idea. I had a spare circuit board so I used that instead. I lightly sanded all the contacts (gently!) with 1000 grit sandpaper and spread bulb grease on them. Same with the contacts for the bulb sockets. I just sanded the part where the socket contacts touch when they're inserted and fully turned clockwise. Somebody tell me if bulb grease is ok to use. I'm guessing it will help keep the copper from oxidizing.
   

2. 
   

Gauge Incandescent Bulbs

1. Replace 194 bulbs from an auto parts store. Autozone never heard of them. O'Reillys said they had them in the shelf but they were too small and didn't engage the circuit board properly. Pep Boys came through with the right sockets, had to get them from their warehouse. Two in a box for $6.
   

2. 
   

Gauge LED Bulbs

1. LED bulbs in the dash look bright but not original like the 194 bulbs. You can buy them on Ebay. 23mm from base of socket to tip of bulb. They fit without hitting anything.
   

2. For the gauge lighting, choose 5 LED bulbs with 4 on the side and 1 on top.
   

3. For the handbrake, high beam, and turn signal LED bulbs, I chose ones that only point out the top. The dimmer works with LED bulbs.
   

4. Ed - ‘67-68 Fastback
   

5. 
   

6. The sockets from ebay are real cheap. NAPA carries the same brand sockets. I also got the LED's from ebay. Same thing, 5 panel for the gauges and the straight forward for the others. Remove the blue filters if you can.
   

7. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

8. 
   

Gauge Lights Flicker

1. Do your instrument lights flicker? You need to clean up the variable resistor that brightens or dims the instrument lights. Enthusiasts tend to throw away the headlight switch when this happens, but it can be salvageable. Go to your nearest electronic supply store and cop a can of tuner cleaner (very old school stuff). Spray this resistor coil while cycling the switch round and round. Let there be light.
   

2. 
   

3. 

   
   

4. 
   

Odometer

1. All the 150 mph speedometers I have seen have trip odometers. I've never seen an original 150 MPH speedometer without the trip odometer. 120 MPH could be had either way, but I don't know for how many years.
   

2. Rob McCall - '68 Fastback
   

3. http://assets.hemmings.com/story_image/95575-500-0.jpg?rev=2
   

Resetting the Odometer

1. Cars this old are not required to have the mileage certified. After all, you have a different engine, rear end, front brakes and rear brakes, etc.
   

2. I replaced the original 120 mile unit with a 150 and reset the odometer on the 150 to match the mileage that was on the original that was in the car. It is not that difficult to do, just do not get in a hurry.
   

3. Nathan Nuttall - ‘67 Fastback
   

Disassembly

1. You can pull the speedometer out just by dropping the steering wheel.
   

2. Disassembling the speedometer itself is actually pretty easy. When looking at the back of your speedo, you will notice that the metal clips on the odometer slide on the metal housing of the speedometer to hold the numbers in place when they spin. Remember how this looks because you will need to line these up again when you go to reassemble.
   

3. 
   

4. Remove the C-clip and spacer on the end of the odometer shaft. If you have a trip, there will be two sets of numbers to line up instead of one. Don’t lose the clip and spacer, they will get away quickly.
   

5. Take the shaft in your hand and you will see you can grab more than one set of units and turn them (let the metal retainers turn also) to get the numbers close to 0. It takes a little patience to not only get the numbers to 0 across the odometer, but also to get those retainers to line back up with the numbers in the correct position. I found out a long finishing nail or something similar was helpful to hold them in place as I got the straight and ready to reassemble.
   

Reassembly

1. Place the odometer back in position making sure the metal housing fits in the slot of every one of those retainers. Again, that nail or whatever other item will really help with alignment. Hold them in place and check the face to make sure you don’t have a 1/2 number showing. Slide the spacer back in place and then the C-clip. It may help to have someone help hold things and you try to clip the C-clip back in position. Turn the speedo back by hand enough to verify that things don’t bind and the numbers start moving again.
   

2. Rob McCall - '68 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. The trick is to start at the 90,000 setting and turn the numbers backward and as you get the 9 lined up, slide the finish nail towards the lower numbers doing one digit at a time. Otherwise, it's like a Rubic's cube. The speedo numbers are not supposed to be up and down.
   

5. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Speedometer

Speedometer Bench Test

1. Bench test the speedometer. Use a drill to turn it. If the needle is steady, good. If it's not steady in the car later, you'll know it's the cable or tranny.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Speedometer Gear

1. Different speedometer gears are used for different rear ends. They are different colors. The one used also depends on rim and tire size. More teeth on the gear slows the speedometer down, less teeth raise the speedometer. Gears with 25 teeth or less require a different speedometer adapter.
   

2. Look on http://www.moparts.com in their tech section and there is a list of speedo gears and what fits what. It doesn't say in the service manual.
   

3. Phil Saran
   

4. 
   

5. Check YearOne. If you do a google search on "mopar speedometer gear" and look in images, you can pull up a bunch of different charts.
   

6. http://www.drivinithome.com/mopar-speedo-gear-chart/
   

7. Jim Conner
   

Calculating Correct Speedometer Gear

1. To be accurate, you need to measure the rolling circumference of the tire.
   

2. This cannot be calculated from a static measurement of the diameter.
   

3. The recommended procedure is to find a long stretch of flat pavement. Mark the point on the tire that touches the ground, and that point on the ground.
   

4. Then have someone walk beside the car as you slowly drive forward, and count the revolutions, stopping you after ten rotations. Make sure the tire mark is right at the bottom, and mark the ground again. Measure the distance between the ground marks and divide by 10 -- this reduces errors of measurement by 90%.
   

5. 
   

6. The reason you can't just measure the diameter and calculate the circumference is that the tire flattens out at the bottom as it rolls. The effective radius is the distance between the center of the hub and the
   

7. contact patch, not half of the diameter measured vertically or horizontally across the tire. Obviously, this is affected by tire pressure as well.
   

8. Max Heim
   

How to Calculate tire diameter:

1. Here is something useful:
   

2. http://www.tciauto.com/tc/speedometer-gear-calculator/
   
   

3. Scroll down to the Chrysler chart and the number of drive teeth for a Chrysler product is given (13) as
   

4. well as the info on the various speedo gears.  Using the formula on the page all you have to know is
   

5. the rear end ratio and tire diameter and the formula will tell you how many teeth the speedo gear
   

6. needs to have.
   
   

Example 1.)   265/60/15

    265mm/25.4mm = 10.43 Inches     Section Width

    10.43 in. X 60% = 6.25 in.              Side Wall thickness

    6.25 in X 2         = 12.5 in Total      Side wall height

    12.5 " + 15" (rim Size) = 27.5"         Diameter

A 3.55 gear and a 265/60/R15 tire size, one would use a 34 Green Tooth Speedometer Gear.

1. Lastly, make sure that the correct number of teeth installed corresponds to the settings on the outside
   

2. of the retainer.
   
   

Example 2.)   245/60/14

    245mm/      mm =        n.               Section Width

          in. X %         = 5.8 in.               Side Wall thickness

    5.8 in X 2           = 11.6 in Total      Side wall height

    11.6 " + 14" (rim Size) = 25.6"         Diameter

A 3.23 gear and a 245/60/R14 tire size, one would use a 33 Yellow Tooth Speedometer Gear.

1. So it basically says all 25 inch diameter tires use the 33 tooth gear and 26 inch diameter tires use the
   

2. 32. The 245/60/R14's are 25.6 inches in diameter, so....
   
   

Speedometer Cable Gear/Pinion

1. Each tooth is 2-3mph at 60mph.
   

2. 
   

3. Use 29 Black speedo gear/pinion for a ? differential ratio.
   

4. Use 31 Green speedo gear/pinion for a ? differential ratio.
   

5. Use 32 Black speedo gear/pinion for a 7.23 differential ratio.
   

6. Use 33 Yellow speedo gear/pinion for a 7.23 differential ratio.
   

7. Use 34 Green speedo gear/pinion for a ? differential ratio.
   

1. A 3.23 gear and a 245/60/R14 tire need a 33 tooth gear - it basically says all 25 inch diameter tires use the 33 tooth gear and 26 inch diameter tires use the 32.  The 245/60/R14's are 25.6 inches in diameter, so....
   

Speedometer Teeth Color with Pinion Numbers

24     White    3410024

25     Blue      3410025=

26     Red       2538926

27     White    52068149

28     Blue      52068150

29     Black     52068151

30     Yellow   52068152

31     Green    2838931   supercedes to 52068153

32     Black     52068154

33     Yellow   2838933   supercedes to 52068155

34     Green    52068156

35     Orange  2838935   supercedes to 52068157

36     Red        2838936   supercedes to 52068158

37     White    52068159

38     Blue       52068060

39     Green    2838939   supercedes to 52068061

40     Orange  2838940   supercedes to 52068062

41     Red        2538941

42     White    2538942  have not changed

43     Blue      2538943  have not changed

44     Black    2538944

45     Yellow  2538945

Mopar Speedometer Pinion Numbers

AXLE RATIO                         Tire Overall Diameter

                            24"            26"             28"                30"

         2.76                2538930       2538928    2538926    2538924

2.94                2538932       2538930    2538928    2538926

3.21                2538935       2538933    2838931    2838929

3.55                2538939       2538936    2538933    2538931

3.91                2538943       2538940    2538937    2538935

4.10                2538945       2538942    2538939    2538936

4.30                2538944       2538941    2538938

4.56                2538945       2538943    2538940

Please note: these numbers are for the standard style pinion gear also last two numbers are the number of teeth, 2538945 = 45 teeth

Aftermarket Speedometer Cable Gear/Pinion

1. The Transmissioncenter.com says that they sell them for $39, so you could check with them.
   

2. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/dodge-jeep-speedometer-gears/
   

3. Nathan Nutthal - ’67
   

4. 
   

5. Mine is a '68 style speedo. Work was done by Redline Gauge Works in California. Only us Barracuda guys would ever notice these are not factory.
   

6. Michael Mosley - ’68 Cuda
   

Trip Meter

1. If the trip meter doesn’t register your problem is the gears. When looking at the trip meter before (with speedo out), they seem to have little plastic 'pegs' that tend to brake with time. Since the trip, tenth place part of odometer goes the most, it seems to break off the fastest.
   

2. 'Tenths' of a mile generally are not that important anyway. Barry - ‘68 Conv.
   

Repairing Speedometer

1. If you are sure its the speedo, then it can be taken out, disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled. To get the dirt and grime in it out, do it with graphite and you can wash it down the cable with WD-40. Then lube with a very light amount of transmission fluid. Just take care not to get anything on the face of the gauge.
   

Directional forces from the cable is what wears speedometers. Early models have simple collector nut providing very little alignment support. Later models have improved plastic sleeve like connector about a inch long to better align the cable and sheathe but... everything wears out eventually no matter how well it is designed. 

Tiny bronze bushings and very little clearance between the speedometers rotating parts. Wear causes one to contact another. I have had pictures to share in the past that show scared on the outside of the drum shaped part, and closeup pics of the egg shaped bushing bores that caused it too.

All we can do is clean the crud from square input port so there isn't inward pressure, and align the cable and sheathe as centered as possible.

Since your collector nut and flange beneath is the only alignment support, to snug that nut is better than leaving it loose.

The cost to rebuild is relative to the availability and cost of replacement parts (those tiny naval bronze bushings, etc..). Their inventories of good used parts are surely depleted today.

After 50+ years and a 100K miles or more, the bushings, etc.., are surely worn. Directional forces coming from the speedo cable is what generates/increases wear.

In 1968 the cable end changed to a nylon sleeve which aligns the cable to the instrument input much better than the collector nut found in previous years ( like yours ). With rebuilt or working used instrument, clean the inside of the input, make sure the cable end is slip fit and cable is aligned to the instrument as straight as possible, snug that collector nut.

All too often a new cable is poorly routed, the square end is crammed into a port filled with hardened grease and debris. Then the nut is left less than finger tight. This will kill the instrument.

The new one is 83" long(y803) and the old one is 63" and dad found a part# on the old one(y804) I tried searching the net(Summit) withY804 and they all say its for 64-65 cudas

Speedo cable turns counter-clockwise.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdYM0dXzbOI

Speedometer Repair Shops

1. Send your speed to a rebuilding service, like Palo Alto Speedometer or MoMo or Redline or North Hollywood Speedometers. Nissonger is another company that repairs instruments.
   

2. Jonathan L
   

3. 
   

4. Redline does a LOT of A-body speedometers. But they tend to be backed up a lot so the turnaround time can be long. They took my 120mph speedo and refaced it to 150mph then calibrated it. The cost was $150.00 for a full redo and that was with shipping. They cleaned it all up, negative mags and calibrated lubed and checked. Turn around time was within 3 days.
   

5. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

Speedometer Calibration

1. There are a lot of speedo repair shops around to calibrate the gauge. I have used a shop A! Electric & Speedometer Repair in Gardena to rebuild my speedometer for $150. Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita is a top-notch shop that sort of specializes in A-body gauges.
   

2. http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com
   

3. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

4. 
   

5. If you are looking for help in getting the right transmission gear, tell them the tire size and rear axle and they will estimate which gear you need.
   

Speedometer Cable Troubleshooting

Cable

1. A speedo going wild when you go down the road indicates a problem. Most of the time, speedometer jumping is caused by a frayed cable. It’s cheaper to replace the cable than work on the instrument. A bouncing speedometer is most often caused by the speedometer itself. You could try greasing the cable since that is easier to do. If it is the speedometer, you will need to take it out and get it lubricated. You can try a new cable, but the most likely culprit is the speedometer itself. You need to take it out and lube it up or pay someone to do it.
   

2. Nathan Nutthall - ‘6
   

3. 
   

4. After 40 years the lube gets gummy and doesn't spin freely. Replace the cable first. If that’s not it, send your speedometer into a shop and have it serviced. Whatever you do be extra careful with the face as it doesn't take much to smear the printing.
   

5. Alan Erland
   

6. 
   

7. A speedometer wobble is likely because of corrosion. The speedo cable is a steel core cable is inside a steel housing. Over time, rust can occur. Then it binds/releases binds/releases, causing a wobble. Crushed or kinked cable will bind as well.
   

8.  
   

9. Another thing you could look at is wear on the speedo gear in the transmission. The end connections in the transmission or speedo housing (PITA) could also be worn or loose.
   

10.  
    

11. It might be worthwhile to take out the cable and check for roughness or binding when spinning it by hand. Then check cable ends for unusual wear.
    

12. Jacques Bouchard - ‘67 Coupe
    

13. 
    

14. Experience talking here...get it apart and lube the speedo sooner than later. I let mine get so bad that on a 100 mile cruise the needle started jumping so badly that it finally broke the end off of the needle.
    

15. Stephen “Catfish” Parker
    

Reinstalling Speedometer Cable

1. To install the speedometer cable, tighten it at the transmission. It is a bit of a pain as there is very little room for the wrench. Now route it back to the dash through the firewall.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

Tachometer

1. There are two different A-body tach's. The '67 tach is different from the rest. It was located in the center bezel. The '68-up are referred to as sidewinder tachs because the sweep goes from bottom to top on one side of the face, whereas, the '67 tach sweeps from left to right. There may be other differences, but probably very similar in terms of electronics.
   

2. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. 

   
   

5. 
   

6. Original tachometers didn't have lights. They got their illumination through the slots on the side of the face similar to how the blank lit up. The original tach looks like a can from the rear. Original should just have a couple of wires.
   

7. Rob Robinson
   

Factory Tachometer for ’67 Barracuda

1. In the ‘67 Parts Manual, a tach is offered as an accessory.
   

2. 
   

3. A Dart tach fits perfectly in the ‘69 dash. It was very common for people to mount a mini tach in the blank.
   

4. 
   

Factory Tachometer for ’68 Barracuda

1. On the back of a factory tach for a ’68, there are 4 bolts. The gray wire is the Tach signal and Blue wire is Power from the fuse box.
   

2. Gerald Drury
   

3. 
   

4. See: TachManual67-74_REV13.pdf
   

5. ON the “68 & ’69...the 5500 to 6000 was orange in color.
   

Tachometer Wiring

1. On the back of the tach is where the ignition feed attaches. The 12 volt is a push on lead similar to the temperature gauge lead.
   

2. Rob Robinson - ‘6
   

3. 
   

4. How to wire it properly.
   

5. Schematics only show a T11-18GY (Gray) wire going from the tach to the negative side of the coil, and a T13-18DBL (Dark Blue) going to the (3d) fuse on the switchable side of the fuse box.
   

6. Bill Aldridge
   

1. The tach has (4) wires, so probably a reproduction.The wires are: Blue or Dark Blue; Red; one Lighter Green and one Black wire which are together as in a two wire. The factory tach had only two wires.
   

2. 
   

3. red    - switched 12v
   

4. white   - instrument lights
   

5. green   - coil negative terminal
   

6. black   - ground
   

7. 
   

8. The two wires (black & green) together could be for a light bulb to illuminate it when the lights are on.
   

9. 
   

10. From Real Time Engineering, if you have more questions or need a picture, they might be able to help.
    

11. Eric Valentin - ‘69 Fastback
    

12. 
    

13. Picture with factory style 1968 tach. I think they only go to $6k:
    

14. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/show-us-pictures-of-2nd-generation-barracudas.180047/page-136#post-1970207678
    

15. 
    

16. This link from A-Bodies only might be helpful:   wiring an old sunpro tach? 
    

17. 
    

Tach Info on Broadcast Sheet

1. The way to read the broadcast sheet is, the box means "what is in the tach hole in the dash?", and the number tells you if it's a tach, a vac gauge, a clock, or a blanking plate.
   

2. Max Helm - ’67 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. 7= 577 Tachometer
   

5. 4= 574 Vacuum Gauge
   

6.      = clock blank = Filler plate
   

7. Alan
   

8. 
   

9. In ‘67 if you had an automatic you got the vacuum gauge. In ‘67 if you had a manual you got a tach.
   

10. You could special order it with the other.
    

11. The Formula-S did NOT include instrumentation, neither the 150 speedo, tach or vacuum gauge.
    

12. Alan
    

13. 
    

14. The ‘67 Barracuda broadcast sheet under Tachometer is the #577 with a 4 underneath of it. I don't have a tach in my dash but do have the vacuum performance gauge.
    

15. The ‘68 Barracuda broadcast sheet under TACK. OR VACUUM has a blank and mine has the blank plate. And it does have TACK, not TACH.
    

16. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

17. 
    

Tachometer and Electronic Ignition

1. When converting to electronic ignition module, your OEM tach may read high due to the difference in the pulse shape of the points vs the ecu. Your best approach would probably be to convert the tach over to modern electronics. There are a number of companies that can do that for you. Real Time Engineering has a do-it-yourself board that you can install. You can purchase a new updated tach outright from Dante's, or Classic Ind. as well.
   

2. http://www.dantesparts.com/gauges.html
   

3. http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/Image:67-74M5.JPG
   

4. http://www.tachman.com/mopar.htm
   

5. http://www.americanmuscle.com/accel-tach-adapter-install.html
   

6. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
   

7. 
   

Aftermarket Tachometer

1. Newer reproduction ones make electronic circuit board upgrades for factory tachs. If you want an aftermarket tachometer you'll have to buy a 2 5/8" tach, and then fabricate some kind of mounting mechanism.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

3. 
   

4. Reproduction tachs I have seen are only offered with the 120 mph speedometer and not the 150 mph.
   

5. Gary Price
   

6. 
   

7. Stewart Warner makes them with the face and lettering with the 6500 rpm red line and 8000 scale are as specified.
   

8. 
   

9. ProTach makes an aftermarket tach.
   

10. 
    

11. Original Sun tachs are getting to be desirable again) into my Barracuda running a 318 V8 with electronic ignition. 
    

12. 
    

13. So check out one of these:  TACH-ADAPT 
    

14. Steve Toth
    

15. 
    

Vacuum Gauges

1. In ‘67 if you had an automatic you got the vacuum gauge.
   

2. In ’69 if you had an automatic the vacuum gauge was an option.
   

3. It was located in the center bezel.
   

4. I found that the vacuum gauge is of more use especially on an automatic car. I have a Sun Tach from back in the day.
   

1. A vacuum gauge would bring it closer to my original '67, which by the way I think had only a 120mph speedo.
   

2. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. A hose from the vacuum gauge leads through the firewall near the steering column.
   

Clock

1. The clock was not an option in ‘67.
   

2. The clock was an option in ’69.
   

3. Alan Erland
   

4. 
   

5. It was located in the center bezel.
   

6. The blue wire is power from the fuse box.
   

7. Gerald Drury
   

8. 
   

9. The clock usually drains the battery if you don’t drive the car often.
   

Quartz Clock

1. Classic car clocks, automatically rewinds itself electrically every 30-60 seconds. Time takes a toll on these vintage clocks to where they wind down and stop functioning. Consider the conversion to a quartz movement, which advances the hands in one second intervals and saves your car battery. What’s more, these timepieces keep pretty good time.
   

Temperature Gauges

1. Stock gauges of the muscle-era operate on the same principle: As more current flows though the particular gauge circuit, the heating wire wound around the bimetallic gauge arm heats up, deflecting the gauge. Crude, rugged, and cheap.
   

2. 
   

3. 

   
   

4. 
   

5. The sender can be checked with nothing more than a simple multimeter.
   

Ammeter Gauges

1. The ammeter is magnetic.
   

Oil Gauge

1. Mopars of our muscle era had a factory oil pressure gauge, using a sender. The sender can be checked with nothing more than a simple multimeter.
   

Fuel Gauges

1. Stock gauges of the muscle-era operate on the same principle: As more current flows though the particular gauge circuit, the heating wire wound around the bimetallic gauge arm heats up, deflecting the gauge. Crude, rugged, and cheap.
   

2. 
   

3. While the gauges are interchangeable, the gauge faces use different lettering styles in ’67 - ‘69. So you want to look carefully at what you have, comparing it to the photos.
   

Original Gauges

1. The fuel gauge on a ’67-’69 Barracuda is also the instrument voltage regulator. The gas gauge works only if it gets a signal from the sending unit.
   

2. 
   

3. Quick test is to go to the wire where it plugs into the tank and ground it. If it comes up to full it is either the sending unit or your metal strap from the gas line to the sender unit at the tank is missing.
   

4. Rob Robinson
   

5. 
   

6. If it really is bad this is a great chance to upgrade to the solid state IVR. Here's some good reading on the subject: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html. Or you could send it to an instrument restorer.
   

7. Josh Walton
   

Troubleshooting the Fuel Gauge

1. If a fuel gauge reads improperly, it’s probably a bad sending unit, voltage limiter, sunk float, pins on the circuit board, wire on the tank. It's not a fuse (or anything else feeding power to the gauges) if the oil and temp gauges work properly.
   

2. Jim Lusk - ’67
   

3. 
   

4. To determine if a gas gauge is accurate, run through a whole tankful. Usually it isn't the gauge's fault, it's the sender. At least check that first. Your challenge then will be to restore the old one. Replace the sock, straighten any kinks in the arm, clean the wire coil and brush. Don't forget the external ground strap.
   

Replacement Gauges

1. ‘Cuda fuel gauges are non-linear. Do not get a "linear" gauge, the resistance is not linear. Aftermarket fuel gauge must be compatible with the sending units.
   

2. New "re-pop" senders are completely wrong, they are constructed differently and will never be accurate (they are copies of a unit designed for a different tank shape).
   

3. For parts take a look at http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/
   

4. index.php. You can get some useful information there and they have for sale departments.
   

5. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Instrument Voltage Regulator - (IVR)

1. The fuel gauge also contains the instrument voltage regulator (IVR). The instrument voltage regulator or voltage limiter on the back of the instrument cluster, reduces voltage to instruments for proper function. If instruments are stone dead or they read maximum, you have a bad voltage limiter. If it fails, the fuel and oil pressure gauges won't work. An external one can be used if the original is cut out or isolated. Improper instruments can also get no power from the source, so check it all while you’re in there.
   

2. 
   

3. The IVR is built into the gas gauge. With the gas gauge open, you can see the little bimetal strip that heats up and cools causing a fast on/off series to make the gauge read correctly. Those converting over to an electronic IVR have to go into the gas gauge like this and disable it. Then they can add an external IVR on the studs of the gauge.
   

4. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback
   

5. 
   

6. If the instrument voltage regulator ground opens up, the regulator points won't open, and the gauges would then get roughly 12 volts continuously. The same condition would result from an open regulator coil. This site says that a steady 12 volts can eventually burn out the coils in the gauges:
   

7. http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_Limiter_Faq
   

8. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
   

9. 
   

10. Based on this article, it seems like the mechanical voltage regulator operates by being either open or closed (article says it is closed about 5/14 of the time, but doesn't say how often it switches), and it's the thermal response time of the bimetallic strip in the gauges that smooths out the gauge reading to an equivalent of about 5 volts continuously for full scale. I think the mechanical IRV output voltage toggles between about 12 v and 0 v.
    

11. http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
    

12. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
    

Troubleshooting an IVR

1. If your voltage limiter for the instruments goes totally dead, the most likely culprits are the IVR or a dash grounding issue. Run a separate ground wire to the cluster and one to the tank. If you have a DMM, measure the voltage at the gauges coming from the voltage limiter. If the other 2 (water and oil) gauges are steady, that means they're getting steady voltage from the IVR. If so, the wild gas gauge may be due to the gas gauge not getting steady source voltage (loose contact at back of gauge?) or anywhere along the gas sender to gauge circuit (including the gas tank ground).
   

2. Ed Lexus
   

3. 
   

4. Check for the grounding jumper that clips across the short rubber hose between the tank inlet and the fuel line tubing. If that jumper clip is missing, your gauge won't register. The clip should be obvious if it is there. If not you can test by taking a piece of hookup wire, stripping the insulation off the ends and wrapping the bare wire around the metal tubing going into each end of the short rubber hose.
   

5. 
   

6. You can make a substitute clip out of two alligator clips and a piece of hookup wire. The original was what looked like an extra large, three inch long fuse clip. It was made out of spring steel. Some of the repros aren't using spring steel and they don't stay clipped on.
   

7. Steve Toth
   

8. 
   

9. I don't like the factory ground clip because it tends to lose contact when things get rusty. I like to solder a blob (flattened with a hammer) at the end of a wire and clamp that to the bottom of the sending unit tube with a hose clamp. Then put the hose above it. Ground the other end of the wire to the frame after grinding away the rust etc to make a good contact. If you want the contact to stay even longer, first braze some brass over the frame contact with a torch, but don't do it with an open gas tank near by and beware of carpet above it etc.
   

10. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
    

11. 
    

12. You should read the resistance from ground to the wire under the dash. It could be that your wire connection has issues at the left kick-panel connection. Take that connector apart and clean it really well. If you get a good resistance reading under the dash, but still no movement on your gauge, your gauge needs adjustment, which I don't know how to do. You also need to check the connector on the dash itself for a bad connection. Those round pins are VERY susceptible to coming loose. If so, solder ALL of them back onto the board to ensure they won't come loose again.
    

13. Nathan Nuttall - ’67 Fastback
    

14. 
    

15. One other thing, the gauge could be smoked from when the voltage regulator died in the first place. If it let a full 12V through, it would melt the internals — I think I just demonstrated this on my workbench, testing a loose gauge. Wisp of smoke, funky smell...Just don't let the "magic smoke" out of the gauge. (It's an old radio servicing joke).
    

16. Max
    

17. 
    

A-body rallye dash limiter fix

1. •Step 1: Take the fuel gauge out of the cluster, and gently take the face off.
   

2. •Step 2: Bend the limiter points out of the way, so that they no longer contact. Make sure that the points don't touch anything.
   

3. •Step 3: Put the Fuel gauge face back on.
   

4. •Step 4: Mount the IVR3 (Ebody) style limiter using one of the circuit board ground mounting points.
   

5. •Step 5: Run a wire from the 12V stud going into the fuel gauge to the IGN terminal on the new solid state limiter. Use a ring terminal on the fuel gauge side, and a male spade terminal on the limiter side.
   

6. •Step 6: Run a wire from the old fuel gauge limiter output stud to the solid state limiter output terminal. Use a ring terminal on the fuel gauge side, and a female spade terminal on the limiter side.
   

7. •Step 7: Test the setup by turning the key on in the car. The fuel gauge, oil gauge, and temperature gauge should operate properly, and the red LED on the new solid state limiter should blink after the 3-6 second warm up time.
   

8. Below is a link to the procedure and further information.
   

9. http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_Gauge_Faq#Fixing_dash_clusters_that_have_internal_limiters
   

10. Eric Valentin - ‘69 FB
    

11. 
    

Diagnosing without pulling out the dash

1. You can start by disconnecting the temperature sensor wire, turning the ignition to the accessory position, and measuring the voltage at the end of the wire. If the instrument voltage regulator is working, you would see an average voltage less than 12 volts that would move around as the regulator points opened and closed. If you see a steady 12 volts (approximately), the instrument regulator is no good, and the temperature gauge coil is still good. If you see steady 12 volts at disconnected sensor lead, you should leave the sensor disconnected to prevent burning out the gauge coil. If you see zero volts, either the gauge coil is open, your voltage regulator is stuck in the open position (unlikely), or your gauge cluster isn't getting any input voltage. You could then go to the oil pressure sensor and repeat the test. And, if you feel like crawling under the car, at the fuel sensor.
   

2. 
   

3. You can then determine if the gauge coils are open or good by measuring the resistance between the disconnected sensor wire and ground, with the ignition in the OFF position. If that gauge's coil is good, there will be a resistance present (the gauges have the same power connection point, so as long as at least one other gauge's coil is good, current from the ohmmeter will flow backward through that other gauge coil, then through its sensor to ground). When you make the measurement, one or two gauge's needles would move backwards (depending on ohmmeter leads polarity), but as long as you don't hold the meter on for very long, I don't thing that would hurt anything.
   

4. 
   

5. If the gauge coils are good, you can then measure the resistance between an open sensor lead and the accessory fuse, with the ignition in the OFF position. That would tell you if you have a good 12 volt input connection to the gauge panel (unless the regulator points are stuck open, which is unlikely).
   

6. Ron Evans - ’67 Coupe
   

7. 
   

8. If you are talking about the original IVR in the gas gauge, you will not see 5 volts... what you will see is 12 volts flipping on and off real fast. That way it simulates 5 volts for the gauges to work correctly. An electronic replacement VR will produce 5 volts constant, eliminating the drifting needle that people commonly see as the speed of the mechanical IVR switching sometimes speeds up and slows down with temperature and/or charging rate differences.
   

9. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback
   

Replacement IVR

1. Real Time Industries sells a limiter part number 1 BR-4 that is solid state and it is better than what you get from Classic Industries. If you look through their site they will have instructions to install the IVR in our cars.
   

2. http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/Main_Page
   

3. Eric Valentin - ‘69 B5 408 FB
   

4. 
   

5. I had no previous issues and had mechanical back-ups to compare to. I ditched the aftermarket to stay original. One thing I overlooked was new paint and disassembly and reassembly + 25 years if storage.
   

6. If I had it to do again while apart, I would have sent everything in to be tested and reconditioned. Other wise I would have done the RTE thing Classic sells with new gauges and the RTE IVR.
   

7. Gerald Drury
   

1. I recommend this one for $50. Many people, including me, have built one from parts for less than 1/2
   

2. that cost, but this one has some performance advantages, and it is in a nice package. The second link
   

3. is the installation instructions for instrument clusters having IVRs built into the factory fuel gauges, like
   

4. yours is, and says model number IVR3 is correct for those clusters. In the instructions, note that we
   

5. would need to remove and re-install the fuel gauge to be able to disable the stock mechanical
   

6. regulator, but it does not look too difficult.
   
   

7. https://www.rt-eng.com/index.php/RTE_limiter.html
   

8. 
   

9. https://www.rt-eng.com/index.php
   

10. RTE_Gauge_Faq.html#Fixing_dash_clusters_that_have_internal_limiters
    
    

11. Ron Evans - ’67 Conv.
    

DIY IVR

1. You can also build you own IVR with instructions from the Mopar Action article found here:
   

2. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/11.html
   

3. Jim Lusk - ’67
   

4. 
   

5. The IVR can be replaced by a simple solid state circuit made from Radio Shack parts.
   

Ignition

Ignition Light

1. The ignition light is just above the ignition switch on the dash. It illuminates the key area after you open the door. It was a timed light that gave you time to see the ignition switch at night. It is #1445 incandescent bulb. Replace it with an LED #BA9SF-W-12VAC: Cool White 180 Degree 12VAC/DC.
   

Ignition Light Thermal Relay

1. It has a thermal relay that is triggered by the door switch's. The longer they stay open the hotter the relay/switch gets to light the lamp. If does not work at all the thermal relay is likely faulty. Or the bulb has failed. Round that is circular "thing" a bit smaller than a flasher, three terminal connector under the dash.
   

2. 

   
   

3. There are 2 wires at each door jamb switch on cars that have the light package! I believe that either the door jamb switch helps to trigger this feature, or maybe the key in buzzer!!
   

1. Any Mopar with A01 option had them. It looks similar to a flasher but smaller and longer. If you see yellow wire or wires and a pink going to it you found the right piece. Like Cosgig said these cars with the A01 option use dual contact door switch's. The second leg though is used for the headlight on buzzer feature and is likely yellow with black tracer. Look around the ashtray to locate it.
   

2. 
   

3. Time delay relay is likely bad. It Is a thermal device by design. The longer the yellow door switch wires are grounded ( i.e. Door open) the hotter it gets and the longer the key switch is illuminated! It was used into the 2000 plus model years and readily available. They will fuse over time especially if the door or doors were held open a long time.
   

4. 
   

5. Part number 2889565, fits all 1968-'79 Mopars. The option key slot stays illuminated approximately 20 seconds after you close the door, allowing you to find the hole in the dark. $40 eBay
   

6. 
   

Radio

1. On the lower side of the dash (just in front of the shifter). The wires run from the trans to the bulkhead and into the cabin (purple and white wires).
   

2. jbeintherockies
   

3. 
   

4. 

   
   

5. 
   

Radio Power

1. While tracing the wires from the fuse panel to the bulkhead and into the cabin (purple and white wires), it was interesting to learn that the radio power wire from the fuse panel also powers the reverse light circuit (at least for manual cars).
   

2. jbeintherockies
   

3. 
   

4. The radio dial light is supposed to come on with the interior lights. The radio power should be from “ACC”. The dial light and power lead are hooked up to the same wire.
   

5. Max
   

6. 
   

7. There will be two coming out of the radio. One of those wires will be for power. The other one will go to the light in the radio. This wire will only have power when the light switch is turned on. The power wire for the radio is usually red.
   

8. Darrell Stephens
   

Radio Noise Suppressor Capacitor (filter capacitor)

1. There is a capacitor attached to the circuit board. This is the noise suppressor for the radio. It is for breaking up radio noise created by the instrument cluster voltage regulator.
   

2. Rob Robinson - ‘6
   

3. 
   

4. That silver can mounted on the post is a filter capacitor to filter out any possible electrical noise from the mechanical voltage regulator in the gas gauge. It is one of three capacitors the car came with, one in alternator and one that attached to the + side coil ....all to filter noise.
   

5. George Bittle
   

6. 
   

7. If you convert to a solid state voltage limiter like I did...throw that thing away. Because the new limiter is solid state, there is no need for it. I bought the RTE limiter. $50.00 off ebay.
   

8. Mike Hasuga
   

Speakers

1. Originally there was one mono speaker under the dash.
   

2. People now put speakers in various places: kick panel, cargo panels, trunk divider, under the front seats, etc.
   

Hazard Flasher Relay

1. The stock flasher is a device to flash your lights under a hazard condition. It is a magnetic coil switch style relay. The factory used a two prong type. It fits the stock wiring harness on the ’68 and ‘69. It attaches to the side of the ash tray assembly via a metal bracket.
   

Hazard Flasher Relay Manufacturers

1. Use an EL12 electro-mechanical 552 equivalent.
   

2. Wagner DOT model #552 12v is round.
   

3. AutoZone sells a loud model #LF12.
   

4. Eric - ‘69 Fastback
   

Electronic Flasher Relay

1. If you change over to mostly LED lights, you need to go to an electronic flasher. Order a 3 prong flasher.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68
   

Headlight Buzzer Relay

1. This device let’s you know if your headlights are left on. It should buzz when headlights are on and a door opened. If you turn the head lights on and turn the key to start, the relay will buzz. When you start the ‘Cuda, the relay will start to click (single click, then nothing). If you turn the ignition key on and jump the starter relay she fires right up.
   

2. Luke Kukulinski
   

1. The relay is located under the glove box and attaches to the dash bottom. The relay on a ’69 ‘Cuda is Mopar part no 2926733 not 2983330 ($75).
   

Headlight Buzzer Relay Troubleshooting

1. The yellow wire with the black stripe must be shorted to ground someplace. It might be shorted in the buzzer, or maybe someplace else. To check, you could unplug the connector from the buzzer, then check for continuity to ground from the yellow/black wire contact in the plug, and then check for continuity to ground from the corresponding contact (blade) on the buzzer.
   

2. Ron Evans - ’67 Conv.
   

Map Light

1. It shines down on the floor and is used for illumination under the dash. On the early A-bodies, the bulb holder was constructed of metal and has a plastic lens cover that snaps in place to diffuse the light. The later ones were black plastic 2 or 2-1/2 inch cone shape. It's just a bare bulb and no bulb cover. It is fixed with a bracket and It does not pull out.
   

2. 
   

3. On a NON A/C car, the map light is located just right of the ash tray under the dash. There should be a bolt hole on the dash.
   

4. On an A/C equipped car it should be over to the right of the glovebox, since the A/C vents would be in
   

5. the way.

   

   
   

6. 
   

7. The dash lower frame has holes in both locations for the light socket depending on options.
   

8. 
   

9. Your FSM lists all the bulb specs.
   

10. 1969 - #1445
    

11. 197171 FSM lists an 89 for the A and E Body map light bulbs and a 562 for a B Body.
    

1. Use an LED light if you have to install a bulb, reduces heat greatly. Use BA9SF-W-12VAC: Cool White 180 Degree 12VAC/DC LED.
   

1. If you use an LED light, you may have to change the polarity of the bulb holder. Simply reverse the pink and yellow wires in the plug.
   

2. Ron Evans - ’67 Conv.
   

Map Light Switch

1. There is a map light switch on some ‘69 ‘Cudas. It comes with a chrome bezel that says “Map Light”
   

2. Eric Valentin - ‘69 B5 408 Fastback
   

1. On other ’69 cars that don’t come with the map light switch, the map light is Illuminated with the door open or dome lights.
   

2. Dana Price - ’68 Conv.
   

Reverse Light

1. There are reverse lights and the cool little reverse light indicator located....
   

2. 
   

Interior Lights

1. AO1 Light Package
   

2. A01 code is the Light Package Group - fender turn signals, map, trunk, ignition, glove box and ash tray lights.
   

3. 
   

4. The harness for the lighting package comes from the fusebox and feeds the ashtray light and the glovebox light and has the switch for the map light also. If you don't have the lighting package you can tap in to a constant hot wire for it.
   

Wiring for Interior Lights for a ‘68 FB

1. The pink wire (always hot) runs from the fuse block to the front right courtesy light (under the dash) & from the left rear courtesy light to the right rear one.
   

2. 
   

3. Power should reach the fuseblock (dome light fuse).
   

4. Power should reach the pink wire at the front right courtesy light. The pink for the map lamp on a ‘69 gets it feed from a pigtail harness from the red 16 lighter feed. Not sure if a ‘68 is the same.
   

5. 
   

6. Factory wiring diagram shows it runs through a 5x2 (10-pin) connector.
   

7. The dome lights should have power at the bulb clip. The other bulb clip grounds when you open a door.
   

8. Ed - ‘67-68 FBs
   

Wiring for Interior Lights for a ‘69 FB

1. The pink for the map lamp on a ‘69 gets it feed from a pigtail harness from the red 16 lighter feed.
   

2. There is a crossover harness located at the left side of the rear hatch pink and yellow that feeds the right side lamp.
   

3. Gerald Drury
   

4. 
   

5. The rear light harness connects to the dash harness behind the left kickpanel.
   

6. Jim Lusk - ’67
   

7. 
   

8. The connector block is behind the driver's side lower kick panel, the harness then runs down the floor in the metal channel locked under the carpet by the sill plate.
   

Glovebox

1. The factory had cardboard liners that were very flexible, so you just flex them a bit to install. The factory plastic liners had a seam down the middle and slotted sides where you could fold them partially down, so the insert would slide in and then you could open them back up.
   

1. All the glove boxes/dash openings are the same. The plastic ones are a little tricky to install, you have to fold them so the outside edges completely overlap (hence the fold line). Then they still take a bit of maneuvering and a lot of patience.
   

1. The glove box striker latch screws into the top of the cardboard glove box. The button to open the glove box is separate from the latch. It is on the glove box door.
   

Hinge Model Number

1. In ‘67 all A bodies (Valiant, Barracuda and Dart) used the same hinges - 2771 266 (R) and 2857 551 (L) as well as the same glovebox door (except for exterior trim) on all but Valiant Signet - 2771 261   Signet was 2771 730.  A total of  325,998 A bodies were built for 1967.
   

Hinge Color

1. The inside hinges are painted the same color as the dash.
   

2. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

3. 
   

4. The only A-body glove box doors/frames that I'm aware of having differences are the '67 models that have sliding hinges. It would fit with a small amount of trimming, because there's a lip on the plastic liner that the cardboard version doesn't have that would hit the sliding hinge. But if that area was trimmed the liner would fit.
   

Aftermarket Glove Box Liner

1. Apipco
   

2. They make an ABS reproduction. The reproduction looks like the factory cardboard liner, but quite a bit stiffer. It fits perfectly and is made out of plastic instead of cardboard.
   

3. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=mopar+a+body+glove+box&view=detail&mid=88773147D1D06033C5B988773147D1D06033C5B9&FORM=VIRE
   

4. 
   

5. Good for folks mounting audio in there. Choice of with or without A/C and screw finish
   

6. http://www.apipco.com/car-parts/1968-1972-mopar-a-body-replacement-glove-box-plastic
   

Aftermarket Glove Box Liner Installation

1. You have to remove everything to install the OE plastic liner. Glove box striker latch, glove box door, all of it. It's a PITA, but it works.
   

Glove Box Light

1. The glove box light / switch attaches to the dash, just to the right of the glove box liner. The glove box door activates the light. On the right side of the glove box liner is a hole where the light shines through behind a lens.
   

2. 
   

1. The glove box lamp was designed to work with the glove door instead of the metal arms.
   

Glove Box Cable

1. Some ’68 and ’69 cars have a cable that attaches from the dash to the glove box door. It's just a little short cable that keeps the glove box door from dropping all the way down. It goes from inside the dash frame to the inside of the glove box door.
   

2. 
   

3. On the ‘67s they didn't have it. They have 2 arced solid metal arms that go through slots in the dash frame, and they are bent over at the ends to stop the door.
   

4. Max
   

5. 
   

6. On the ’68 door, it does not open as far as the 67's due to the lower pad, even with the cable in place the plastic trim is just a hair from hitting the pad when open.
   

7. Lee Mowry - ’67 & '68 FB
   

8. 
   

9. The ‘67 models came ONLY with the metal arms and the metal arms were available ONLY in ‘67- with or without the glove box lamp.
   

10. 
    

11. Similarly, the ‘68 - ‘69 A body cars came only with the cable and no ‘68-’69 A body cars were built with the glove box metal arms. The glove box lamp was available on all ‘68-’69 A body models, and all had the cable. 
    

12. 
    

13. 
    

Ash Tray Assembly

Ash Tray Light

1. The ashtray light is the little canister attached to the ashtray assembly at the top. The ashtray light works when the headlamps are on. You really only need the ashtray light when it's dark and you have the lights on.
   

2. 
   

3. The canister has a small slot in the underside where the light comes through, (some people make it a little bigger). Hint: You can rotate that little canister so the light shines where you want it, and you can even open the hole slightly to includes the lighter in the light.
   

4. 
   

5. The orange wire goes to the ash tray lamp. The wiring for It comes out through the back.
   

1. I won’t tie a glovebox lamp to (pink) because it is always hot. I use the (orange) dash light circuit. I've seen too many batteries killed by tiny little lights along with melted lenses. The ashtray light is adaptable to your tray hanger or just use the entire hanger from a later model. I tied that to the (orange) radio light wire in my ‘67.
   

2. 
   The ash tray light wire is pink or red. A point to consider is the pink wire that feeds the cigarette lighter is on a 20 amp fuse. If it will turn the lighter element red hot, it can turn a switch or bulb/socket red hot.
   

3. 
   

4. Be sure to replace the incandescent light bulb (#1895?). Or use an LED for more illumination. Purchase with the: BA9SF-W-12VAC: Cool White 180 Degree 12VAC/DC LED.
   

Ashtray Color

1. The part that holds the cigarette butts is a silver color. ‘68 are different than the ‘67’s.
   

2. Gary Price
   

Ashtray Assembly Removal

1. To remove then ash tray assembly, detach the ash tray light in the rear. Remove the ash tray cover (door). Lastly remove the 4 Phillips head screws. Those 2 screws are on the top and 2 screws on the bottom below the ashtray lid is how it comes out by removing those 4 screws. But the 4 screws that hold that in won’t come out unless the radio is out.
   

1. The pop down part (door) of the ashtray come out. Look for the tab in the back of the ashtray, push down on it and rotate the lid downward and pull it out. It rides on round bar that goes from one side to the other. It helps to lift it closed slightly before pushing down on the tab, you will see why when you try it.
   

2. 
   

3. The whole unit will come out, ashtray and the lid itself.
   

Ash Tray Restoration

1. Use Simple Green, sand paper and steel wool. The pot metal pieces will cleaning up. With a little elbow grease and steel wool, they look like new again.
   

Ash Tray Installation

1. The ashtray assembly will go back together in the reverse order.
   

2. Add the two rubber bumpers. (They are at the top of the photo.)
   

3. 
   

Cigarette Lighter

Cigarette Lighter Removal

1. Do the following steps to remove the assembly from the dash. Make sure you have the battery disconnected though as that wire is hot all the time.
   

2. Pull the lighter out.
   

3. 
   

4. To remove the instrument cluster on a ‘69 Barracuda remove the cigarette lighter. You can't get it out without damaging anything. The lighter assembly clamps the bezel and dash frame. There is a hole in the dash frame so when you unscrew the body from behind the rest will slip out the front.