Restoration Advice

1. Fixing up an old Barracuda requires lots of TLC...Time, Labor, and Cash. Do the best you can with whatever you have the most of.
   

2. Stephen ‘Catfish’ Parker - ’67 Conv.
   

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5. Restoring a car is a taxing and laborious project regardless of your knowledge and skill level.
   

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7. I saved a lot of money up over the period of several years before I started the latest leg of this project. On September 17th, 2013 I took my car to the restoration shop to put it in line. At that point the car was little more than a rolling shell. I did most of the prep work. The total labor I was billed to put the car on the rotisserie and prepare it for media blast was only a few hours. So the shop had to do no real prep work, just remove the rear suspension and unbolt the fenders, doors and deck lid.   
   

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9. My car is still at the shop. I pay two to three weeks at a time and work has not stopped at any point due to payment. They did not start on my car in earnest until after Christmas, and they still take breaks to work other small projects as they come in. The guy that owns the shop can't seem to say no to someone with a one week project standing in his office with money even when he has a shop full of work from customers who have already paid. So the bigger projects keep starting and stopping and dragging out. I am not in a big hurry and the billing is fair. The breaks also have given me a chance to stay ahead when I need to get parts. So I have not felt the need to put my foot down, yet.
   

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11. I did have them do some structural modifications to the car. So probably half the work to this point would not be done on a normal restoration. But, then again, my car had no rust and we did not have to do any outer body panel replacement. To this point I have spent about $25k not including parts I have bought. Probably about a month more to go before it is done. Then I will take it home to do the assembly myself. If I had them do it all it would probably run twice as much in labor charges. My project: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=134292
    

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13. So, be very specific about what you want and what you are willing to spend. $50k is where I would expect a "true" restoration to cost on the low end. Closer to $80k is a number I have heard thrown around.
    

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15. One of the guys on the "For A Bodies" website just dropped his '69 383 4 speed 'Cuda off at Graveyard Cars to be restored. He is supposed to get it back in two years.
    

16. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=260582
    

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18. So, what would you be happy with? Fix all the operational issues and a $12k paint job? Maybe just touch up here and there with paint? Then make that clear. If the shop won't do that, then keep shopping. Join a Mopar club and get to know the locals. They know all the shops in your area and who can do what. More important they will know who to avoid. They may even be able to help you out.  
    

19. Michael Mosley - ’68 Coupe
    

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22. When I started working on my fastback, the owner of the resto shop gave me some good advice: "You're starting out on a slippery slope here - so what do you want the car to be? A ratrod? An OK looking burger cruiser? A show car? You have to decide, because if you don't, you're going to end up spending a lot more money than you planned on".
    

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24. He was right. It's way too easy to to get caught up in the excitement of the moment when you see results in the shop. Example: I was experiencing body flex at highway speeds going over dips in the road, so I thought subframe connectors would be a good idea. The car had just come back from the sandblasters and was on the rotisserie in the shop. I started considering just 2x3 rectangular bars. Then I saw the floorpan contoured subframe connectors that Auto Rust Technicians or somebody was selling and thought, "heck, it's on the rotisserie, I might as well do it right." So I bought those and as the guys were welding them in along their entire length, and I thought: "heck, I might as well get torque boxes put in and get the frame nice and stiff in case I ever put in a big block." So I bought those too. It IS a slippery slope.
    

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26. The car now has all the body work and paint done and all the parts I needed to replace/upgrade are sitting in the garage. $35k and counting......Oh, but wait! I can upgrade the torsion bars..... and add better brakes......and modify the front and rear suspension so it handles better...... and add EFI.........and those Recaro seats are WAY cool!.........and............it's a slippery slope.
    

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28. Once I started putting things back together, my reaction has been: Wow, with the car looking so great I can't put that part back on without cleaning and painting it! And since I'm cleaning and painting everything I might as well do that front end rebuild and suspension upgrade I've wanted to do since everything is apart..... And what about that leak that i was putting up with?.... And the door panel that needs to be replaced that looks kind of ratty?......
    

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30. Also you just don't realize how much labor goes into a resto until you do one.
    

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32. You will now find out how expensive it COULD have been if you were not doing a lot of the work yourself - the body work and paint and associated shop labor, for me, is working out to be about half. Restos are really expensive if you have a shop do all the work for you. 2000 hours, or even one quarter of that, at current labor rates is a chunk of change if you have the shop do it.
    

33. Steve Toth
    

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36. I had about 2000 hours into my ground up car reassembly after the car came back from the body and paint shop, but again that was a complete overhaul of everything on the car after I had it painted. Remember, I've never done this before, so everything is new to me. There's also nothing glamorous about refurbishing parts. Regarding parts, don’t take it apart unless there's something wrong with it.
    

37. Jeff Ramin
    

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40. You might check out "For A Bodies Only" for some of the miscellaneous parts. I've bought door handles, window cranks, armrests, etc for very little money. Just do searches on whatever item you're looking for to get a good handle on customary prices. You'll figure it out!
    

41. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/index.php
    

42. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
    

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45. A car is a personal item so make it like you want it not like someone else wants it. The idea of paint and crayon marks exactly where they were on when new is stupid! When it was produced it was a low cost mass produced item not a masterpiece of art! Then drive the hell out of it and don't turn it into a trailer queen.
    

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47. But again isn't that what makes hot rodders, the ability to turn a vehicle into something personal, rather than what was produced by the millions in a factory?
    

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49. Of course for those of us who were around back in the sixties and seventies we never expected these cars to turn into something that is valuable and cherished as they are today. For the most part we expected them to be recycled into newer products as those that came before them were.
    

50. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
    

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53. One little thing at a time, eventually it all gets done that way.
    

54. Michael Mosley - ’68 Coupe
    

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57. It is funny, I go to my share of car shows and many times I see the cars that are suppose to be factory correct cars with major errors or modifications. Or a company that “restores” cars that throw on all kind of incorrect stuff. I don’t say anything. I leave it to the judges. But, here we have a mix of people. We have those that are looking to get every crayon mark right, or like me, someone who is trying to get the overall “look” of the era. With that said, not all parts are alike. Not all approaches are the same. It took me a while to learn each and every inch of my car. Personally, some things I have left on my car are very original, but other things I modified for the enjoyment of driving. What is fun is having something that I truly know is modified (chroming my factory valve covers) on my car and people ask if it came that way and sometimes argue with their friend that they had one just like it (even though the factory never came that way). Keeps them guessing. 
    

58. Rob Robinson - ’68 Fastback
    

1. My car finally gets its paint job and reassembly can begin. Everything is in pieces and each part has been gone through, restored or replaced. As of the moment everything has been assembled in my head and the search and research for all the parts finally culminates. Only thing left to buy will be misc. assembly fasteners and the dual exhaust, but I know that can wait until the end. Now that my son has the bug and understands the finesse needed to put things together patiently.
   

2. David Martin
   

1. Given a long-term owner car to start with, you could go two ways: full authentic factory restoration, or “resto-mod" with improvements calculated to add perceived value. This is kind of an odd mix of the two approaches. I don’t mind the mods, it just seems weird to “restore” most of the car, but make obvious mods to other details that don’t necessarily improve performance or sellability.
   

2. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback
   

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5. Doing all your own trim resto helps shave the total resto cost. To do the job correctly is tremendously time intensive. That's one reason for the high prices. Also most pieces being resto'd are in worse shape than people think they are - dents, dings, corrosion, broken fasteners, broken pieces in an assembly. And it takes time to properly repair, prep and repaint / polish pieces that later need to be assembled an you sometimes have to find replacement pieces and hardware that will work because the original pieces / hardware are either unavailable or priced so high that it is ridiculous. And sometimes it is stressful because you are working on a piece that you know cannot be replaced because nobody makes it and the only source is purchasing a replacement assembly.
   

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7. It's not hard, but you have to be very careful (so you don't break or ruin anything), patient (so you do the job correctly), sometimes be creative (when you unintentionally damage / or break something and have to figure out how to repair / re-engineer it), and always pay attention to detail (I took lots of pics before I took it apart right? No? Uh oh....) - and I've found you usually have to do some things over because the dent/ding wasn't taken all the way out or the polished metal finish looks uneven (usually in someplace that is most visible), the paint bled under the masking, one area of the painted surface did not prep properly, etc, etc. Sometimes you end up doing some things more than once - it is very time intensive. And did I mention it is time intensive? It is very time intensive. But once it's done it is very satisfying and a source of bragging rights. I can send you pics if you're interested in what you can do on your own.
   

8. Steve Toth
   

1. Keep headers, power brakes and drums stock where less performance is needed.
   

2. Max Heim - ’67 Conv.
   

1. Every time I do something non-stock, I run into at least 3 new problems. Nothing is easy when installing after market parts. Truer words were never spoken.
   

2. Michael Mosley
   

1. When you have a problem and you can't solve it, walk away and work on it later.
   

2. Marc Workman - Graveyard Cars
   

1. Take the time to find the best car possible, for the time necessary to complete the restoration will be made up if you buy the first wreck that comes along.
   

2. John - Muscle Car Restorations
   

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5. Sometimes a carburation problem looks like an ignition problem and sometimes an ignition problem looks like a carburation problem. Sometimes you can end up dealing with both as a compound problem!
   

6. Steve Toth
   

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9. Just try not to get frustrated and do something that you will immediately regret. I had to stop and go sit in the shade and drink a cold one because I realized that I was about to try to force something that would have resulted damage, which would probably be irreplaceable. Just remember...”A moment of patience, in a moment of anger, will save a hundred moments of regret”.
   

10. Stephen ‘Catfish’ Parker - ’67 Conv.
    

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13. A survivor car does not need a complete restoration. It is worth more to the right buyer as original as it is, than a complete OEM restoration. A sign in a retail shop said: "Quality, Service, Price.....pick any two”. When you think about it, it applies to almost anything. Same reason some people won't buy crate engines and build their own even though it costs more. If they do it, they know it was done right (quality) and they run the project (service) but it costs more in time and money (price).
    

14. Steve Toth
    

Details

1. There are many details that go into a top notch restoration. These details can easily get overlooked if not examined by the restorer, and a less than accurate restoration is the result. While it is never easy, or inexpensive to do an accurate job with the details, they truly separate the good cars from the great cars!
   

1. First, if you're worried about price and value, don't restore a car! Let professionals do it, and go buy yourself a nice driver. You're gonna sink loads more time and money than you think, and if return on investment is driving you, you're not going to be happy.
   

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3. Second, "numbers matching" only matters with certain cars. I keep seeing sellers hyping a "Numbers Matching 318 car". Nobody gives a damn. If it isn't a rare Hemi or 440-6 car, then numbers matching doesn't mean beans.
   

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5. Third, forget budgeting. It's impossible to budget a resto as you're always going to be finding new problems, or creating new ones. Be smart with your money, shop around for parts, and do lots of horsetrading.
   

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7. And the best advice is, develop a plan that enables you to get some use out of the car as quickly as possible, even if it's just sitting in it listening to the radio. The longer the car sits there and affords zero rewards, the more likely it's going to end up on Craigslist.
   

8. Bruce Reynolds · Technical Writer (Consultant) at EASi Design and Engineering
   

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Time Management

1. Everything on your fix-it list is likely to take twice as long as you expect it to. I recently replaced the intake manifold on my '68. I expected it to take 4 hrs. It took all day.
   

2. Nathan Nuttall - ’68 Cuda
   

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Research

1. Read extensively on a subject before pulling the trigger on decisions. I have found that the people of the BOG are much more reliable with the information that they furnish, but you can get a broad perspective. Although, most of us are registered on FABO.
   

2. Jim Conner - ’68 Cuda
   

Things Don’t Add Up

1. Remember this is Chrysler we are talking about, where the line workers would install whatever they felt necessary or not!
   

2. Mike Jarvie - ’68 Fastback
   

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How to Go About Getting Knowledge

1. There's a good chance the employees at speciality companies and shops have performed the same work you're doing, so they know what fits and what doesn't.
   

Reward When the Car is Complete

1. My car is now finished! Anybody that's undertaken a complete restoration, probably know how I feel right now! It's been a lot of work. Lots of nights. Lots of cursing. Lots of money. Lots of aggravation. But also the feeling of accomplishment that comes with taking on a big project like this and being successful. Having put this car together, and knowing how many things have to work correctly for it to fire up...well, let's just say I'm utterly amazed. What a beautiful feeling.
   

2. Jeff Ramin - ’67 Coupe
   

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1969 Barracuda Worth

1. Let's try to be realistic, here. In order for a nothing-special 318 auto fastback to be worth $10K, it would need, at a minimum, to meet the following requirements:
   

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3. - attractive "10-footer" paint job (or original paint)
   

4. - clean presentable interior
   

5. - no obvious rust
   

6. - runs & drives
   

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8. It may need to be better than that, but let's say that much is a given.
   

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10. The market for these cars does not support 5-figure prices for major projects or basket cases, except occasionally for the most desirable option packages ("M-code", say, or Formula S 4-speed convertible).
    

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12. Look at eBay or Craigslist, and ignore the upper 20% of asking prices that aren't going to sell at all.
    

13. Max Heim - ‘67 Fastback
    

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15. Speaking from experience (in progress), you will now find out how expensive it COULD have been if you were not doing a lot of the work yourself - the body work and paint and associated shop labor, for me, is working out to be about half. Restos are really expensive if you have a shop do all the work for you. 2000 hours, or even one quarter of that, at current labor rates is a chunk of change if you have the shop do it.
    

16. Steve Toth
    

1969 Barracuda Worth

1. $6,000 - $12,000 for a notchback coupe
   

2. $10,000 - $18,000 for a convertible
   

3. $8,000 - $15,000 for a fastback (in good to excellent condition).
   

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5. 340-cubin-inch V-8 and 383-cubic-inch V-8 engines add a 30 percent premium. The 340 Formula S provides the best overall balance between performance and drivability.
   

1. The average value for a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda
   

2. 2dr Fastback Coupe  8-cyl.  318cid / 230hp 2bbl
   

3. $ 15,380
   

4. Value data provided by Hagerty Valuation Tools.
   

1969 Barracuda Cost

1. The owners of Fenders & Fins are a respected NW resto shop and do quality work on everything. Jon, the owner, told me that if you bring a car in for a resto/build up and have his shop do everything you are probably looking at an average of $70-80k. If you put in a lot of work yourself - other than body work and body paint (disassembly, de-rust, cleaning, painting parts, reassembly, reinstall) you are probably looking at half those amounts. And I can attest that his numbers are accurate from my own experience. This hobby ain't cheap! 
   

2. Steve
   

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4. Getting your bumper straightened and chromed usually runs in the $300 range per bumper.
   

5. Phil Saran 
   

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7. No one ever said restoring a car was cheap, sometimes you need to bite the bullet and pay for correct good parts.
   

8. Alan Erland
   

Restoration Shops

•In the strictest sense, restoration is returning the car to a previous form

•Qualifications - Keep in mind that there are no qualifications that are required to open a restoration shop. Anyone can open one up. Keep that in mind.

•What is important? Reputation - in the restoration business, it’s everything. Ask for references.

•Recent restoration projects -- If you are purchasing as vehicle that was recently been restored you should expect to obtain dozens and dozens of photos and receipts that would total up to the restoration cost stated by the seller. If he doesn’t have them, it may not be the end of the world, but you don’t want be paying top dollar for a restored car that doesn’t come with full supporting paperwork from a reputable shop

   •    The history of a vehicle is usually obliterated when a car is restored, as the significant part of many cars is what happened AFTER they left the factory, not the assembly at the factory.

Frame-off Restoration

1. A restoration project in which the entire vehicle is completely disassembled with all parts cleaned or replaced as necessary, so that the restored car meets the original factory specifications as closely as possible. Most classic cars today have undergone frame-off restorations.
   

Cloning

1. When you take a 318 ‘70 Cuda and re-equip it as a Hemi car, that's a "clone". But to improve the running gear on a second-gen Barracuda, I consider that a "post-dealer upgrade" -- you aren't trying to fool anybody, and there isn't really all that much value attached to OEM packages.
   

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3. What I mean is, at the auction or on eBay, a well-thought-out resto-mod with an attractive combo (engine, tranny, color) is just as valuable as a factory-correct combo in the same condition, or possibly more valuable, depending on the combo. I can think of a few high-spec #1 concours restos that have been lingering for sale for months or even years at high asking prices -- I just don't think that market is there for A-bodies.
   

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5. Exception: I guess a ‘68 SS "clone" would be roughly the same story (as a 70) -- Hemi’s are Hemi’s.
   

6. Max Helm - ’67 Fastback
   

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8. It's there for some A-bodies, mainly high perf convertibles and big blocks. My Barracuda will be worth more with the "upgrades" (440, etc.) than if it still had a 273 two barrel, but my 340 GTS convertible would not gain value with the same mods.
   

9. Jim Lusk - ’67
   

Survivor Car

1. A survivor car is one that doesn’t need restoration because everything is original and it is in excellent condition. It may show a little wear and tear.
   

2. Graveyard Cars
   

Re-body Car

1. It is taking numbers out of a desirable car that is in poor condition, taking those numbers and putting them in a shell of a car that is in good condition. Therefore, getting a new car for a rubbish car that should have never been fixed and then passing off that car as an original, that is totally wrong.
   

2. Graveyard Carz
   

Second Day Add On's

1. Second day ad ons are the day after stuff you buy for the car, that is the aftermarket add-on stuff (Mickey Thompson valve covers, air filter, wheels and tires, etc.)
   

2. Graveyard Carz
   

Shipping

1. When looking at prices to ship some car part, try to stay away from UPS, look at FedEx and U.S. Post Office. It also helps to ship to a business address instead of your house, so if you can have something shipped to your office or job it helps keep the pricing down.
   

2. Phil Saran
   

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Before Buying a Barracuda

1. Ok, everyone gets excited when they go out and look for a new ride to bring home and restore. I've seen a lot of people buy the first car they see or they bring one home that is very shiny and looks new. Once we begin to tear down and strip that nice shiny car we find body filler (bondo) and god knows what stuffed here and there. STOP!!!!  One of the first things you should look for is the condition of the frame or frame rails underneath the car, then check the cowl and firewall areas behind the engine in the engine bay, and shock towers and so forth. Make sure this car has a solid and safe (I like to say foundation) before jumping onto a never ending project. Sure it is nice to see a car with decent paint before restoration, BUT don't let the good looks fool ya. I'm not saying most cars are this way, just be careful and take your time and INSPECT the above before jumping. You and your families SAFETY is very important DON'T TAKE A CHANCE. If you keep this in mind, you will have an enjoyable muscle car restoration experience.
   

2. A-1 Auto Restoration
   

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Original numbers matching vehicle or an Imposter? © By Moparr Motor Consulting

The following is an excerpt from a paper written by David Wise of Moparr Motor Consulting, dated November 15, 1995 Updated December 6, 2004.

1. With the increased popularity of classic Mopar’s these days it is important that you do you research and homework when looking to purchase a vehicle as an investment or just as a hobby. However, many sellers claim that their vehicle is "correct factory original" and "numbers matching". However, in many cases after careful inspection the vehicle does not qualify as an original.
   

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3. Always keep in mind that the more original documentation and original components that exist with the vehicle the better off you will be in the long run.
   

Consider these 9 points before purchasing your car:

Number Matching:

1. Matching numbers refers to the various casting numbers, codes and dates found on all the major driveline components (engine, transmission, rear-axle assembly). On later models, the engine block and transmission carry the V.I.N. number as well as the part number and i.d. codes.
   

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3. Each engine, for example, had a particular carburetor, distributor, set of cylinder heads, etc. for that combination. The true numbers matching car will also have the correct engine components as well. But unless you’re building a concours show car or paying six figures for a Hemi Cuda convertible, most enthusiasts aren’t overly concerned with carb and distributor numbers. The proper engine numbers are what most of us are concerned with.
   

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5. Why are matching numbers important? Well, unless you’ve paid a premium for a numbers matching car, or are planning on entering a concours show, they’re probably not. If you’re planning on simply driving and enjoying the car, it really doesn’t matter if the 440 is a ’69 or a ’70 model. But, given the price differences (and resale value) between a car with the original drivetrain and a car without, it pays to know how to tell the difference.
   

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7. For some, the date codes for the rear end, radiator, wiper motor, etc. must match for the car to be “numbers matching.” For others, these parts may be date-code correct, but could come from other cars. They did not have the vehicle’s unique identification number issued at the factory and therefore are not required to make the car “numbers matching.”
   

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Vehicle Identification Numbers:

1. You need to understand is it being referred to as all the vehicle numbers, which could implies components parts numbers (i.e., wheels, carburetor, voltage regulator etc) as well as the manufactures applied vehicle identification number (VIN) or just the vehicle identification number?
   

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3. This term is often found in most Mopar ads today as an indication that this Mopar is somehow better to buy than one without matching numbers. The following information will attempt to clarify some of the issues and illustrate how to determine what matching numbers really are.
   

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5. Verifying matching numbers on a vehicle is critical to anyone concerned with authenticating the originality of a car or the restoration of a car to its true original "as built" condition. A truly original car will consist of only parts (down to the smallest nut, bolt and/or clip) that are from its time of manufacture. This basically means that the parts will all be either from the point of production at the time of production or have been replaced with authentic NOS (new old stock) parts. There is a difference between production parts and dealer stock parts.
   

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7. True numbers matching should be considered to be that the parts on the vehicle are the correct ones for that vehicle. However, In the case of the matching numbers on the block, including the partial VIN on the stamp pad, this implied originality. A vehicle that has a matching numbers block is considered to be the original block. However, there have been cases for several years of counterfeit number pads.
   

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9. If you find the numbers including the VIN on the engine pad matching, you need a more proof that this engine is really original. It may just be a "re-stamp". Buyer Beware!
   

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11. All engines produced after 1968 will have the VIN stamped on the ID pad. There is also a casting number and actual build dates located on the engine. These numbers should be reviewed to make sure that they are correct.
    

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13. Example- If your car was produced on Jan 1, 1969 with a 440 HP engine you could most likely expect your casting date to be at least 60 days before that date and you build date to be at least 30 days before that date.
    

14. Note:
    

15. •If the casting date and build date do note have the logically appropriate sequence there is a possibility that the component may not be the legitimate original piece for that vehicle.
    

16. •If there are not sequence numbers that match the VIN number on the body be very cautions this could be a sign that the car has had structural components replaced.
    

17.          If we assume for this reference that we are just speaking of matching the Vehicle Identification Number        
    

18.          (VIN) there are many vehicle numbers that should match the following are the most critical ones:
    

19. •Body / chassis -- The manufacture stamped these numbers on various locations of a vehicle. This number is typically found on the radiator core support, cowl, and on the left side trunk lid weather seal lip.
    

20. •Transmission -- The transmission produced after 1968 will have the VIN stamped on the ID pad. Just like the engine there is a build date on the transmission that should be before the build date of the car.
    

21. •Axle -- Dana’s only have codes on them that represent the body style, axle ratio and assembly dates. Just like the engine there is a build date on the transmission that should be before the build date of the car.
    

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Broadcast Sheet:

1. This is an important document in validating the vehicle. Having an original broadcast sheet can add as much as 10% to the price of the vehicle. Inspect the broadcast sheet to ensure it is original (if claimed to be original).
   

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Monroney Label (window sticker):

1. Inspect the window sticker to ensure it is original (if claimed to be original) there are a few companies that reproduce this sticker. If the sticker appears to be too "nice" and perfect it may not be original. Most original labels are not in perfect condition after 30 - 40 years.
   

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Fender Tag:

1. Inspect the fender tag to ensure it is original (if claimed to be original) there are a few companies that reproduce tags. Typically the reproduction tags are lighter in weight then the original ones. If the tag appears to be too "crisp" and perfect it may not be original. Most original tags are not in perfect condition after 30 - 40 years.
   

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VIN Tag:

1. Inspect the label to ensure it is original (if claimed to be original) there are a few companies that reproduce this type of label. If the label appears to be too "crisp", incorrect text font and/or too perfect it may not be original. Most original tags are not in perfect condition after 35 years.
   

Original Parts:

1. This is a very important point to not overlook! The prices of original parts have risen significantly over the past few years and I will expect that they will continue to rise in the future. There is also a great deal of reproduction pieces being manufactured that are attempting to be passed off as originals.
   

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3. Besides the engine, transmission and axle there are many other components that are important to be correct on a vehicle and will be costly to find if they are not in place. The following are a few components that should be reviewed.
   

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5. Hoods                  Radiators
   

6. Wheels                Carburetors
   

7. Spoilers                Distributors
   

8. Air cleaners          Valve covers
   

9. Intake manifolds   Exhaust manifolds
   

10. Deck lids              Trim pieces
    

Sheet metal:

1. Look for signs that the sheet metal is original. Make sure that all the body plugs are in place. Many time when a body floor pans are replaced the body plugs are not reinstalled. If the sheet metal has been replaced look for signs of quality workmanship. If the panel is overlapped or all the rust has not been removed this may be a sign of poor or careless workmanship. Note: Be cautious of cars that are heavily undercoated.
   

Production Date Codes:

1. There are very few components on a Mopar that do not have a date code on them. If you are buying a high-end vehicle or one that is claimed to be original the dates codes are important to the value and authenticity of the vehicle. Date codes can also be helpful to determine what is original and correct for the car. Date codes should always precede the car’s build date and can also help when you do need to replace non-original parts during the restoration.
   

2. 
   

3. As with any mass production process there will be production variations. Most of what you see in restoration books and here hold true, but exceptions do arise. There are still exceptions that are missed, as being a production vehicle changes occurred during production and workers did not always follow the "bill of process" when installing parts. If you see something that you have a gut feeling is right, it may be.
   

4. 
   

5. The following are a few examples of components that has date codes applied to them by the manufacturer:
   

1. Radiator                             Horns
   

2. Jack                                   Carburetors
   

3. Wiper motors                    Glass
   

4. Torsion bars                       Lower control arms
   

5. Seal belts                           Wheels
   

6. Alternator                          Seat tracks
   

7. Electrical relays                 Rubber mounts
   

8. Brake drums                      Fuel pumps
   

9. Hoses                                Ignition coil
   

10. U joint clamps                   Temperature sending units
    

Important issues to not overlook when buying a vehicle:

•Vehicle History - Obtain as much information about the vehicle history as possible.

•Owner History  - Obtain as much information about the owner history. If this information is available you should call some of the previous owners.

•Vehicle Title     - Review the vehicle title or registration "pink" slip. Always demand to see a copy of the title initially and then the actual title when you go to inspect the car. Do not move forward with the transaction until the seller gives you unequivocal proof that he/she not only has the legal right to sell the car, but that the title is physically in his possession.

•Inspect the car  - Never send ANY money to a seller until you or your representatives have checked out the car. If you can’t get to it yourself, or don’t have the experience -- use a professional qualified inspector that has a good reputation in this area and if very familiar with the Mopar that you are interested in purchasing.

•Emotions          - Don't let your emotions take over. Unless you are looking at an extremely rare car, you should be able to find another in as good or better condition.

Final word:

1. Be very cautious when buying a vehicle.
   

2. 
   

3. The Mopar hobby is rapidly advancing into some uncharted territory. With the quality of restoration on the rise, increased knowledge base and the rapid appreciation of Mopars in general we need to be careful in our quest for a classic vehicle. Just because it has won an award at a national event you still need to carefully look over the vehicle. Keep in mind that the vehicle won the award based on the condition and the components that were on it at that time. Important point to consider "not all awards are created equal".
   

4. 
   

5. I have seen too many great vehicles have points deducted by judges for something that is deemed not "correct" without regards to production variations. In some cases the same component that was reviewed by a different judge at different event was found to be correct. Conversely, I have seen vehicles awarded points for items that were not correct. This is very unprofessional and seen as a problem with the current state of the Mopar hobby.
   

6. David Wise, Mopar Motor Consulting
   

Best Market Place for Selling a Classic

1. I would do a multi-site approach. Your results may vary depending on your location. For your car, moparts.com, Craig’s List, racingjunk.com, bringatrailer, ebay and there is probably more.
   Jonathan Reck
   
   

Autotrader

1. I’ve tried selling three cars on classic Autotrader with zero success. 
   
   

Craig’s List

1. I've been successful parting out my car on Craig’s List, but it's usually one person out of 20 inquiries. I've had better luck selling on Facebook's Marketplace. Craig’s List seems to have become a bunch of scammers and slackers.
   Jeff
   
   

2. The only responses I've gotten so far are just scammers. Craig’s List seems to be a home for them. I'd recommend posting it on places like Moparts, A Bodies only, etc.
   
   

ebay

1. I think ebay and craigslist are not that successful.
   
   

2. I finally sold same cars on ebay after a lot of hassle. 
   
   

3. I would do ebay but only with a reserve.
   Jonathan Reck
   
   

4. I don't recommend using a reserve. It is over-used to the point that most people just ignore reserve auctions. They are a waste of time for buyers. Just put a no-reserve auction for the minimum amount that you are willing to let it go for. Or put an amount that you would like to get and be prepared to lower it if you don't sell it.
   Nathan
   
   

5. ebay with a no reserve will get it sold quickly - at a price you may not like. The listings I’ve put on ebay ended bidding at about half what the car is worth. People trying to get a really good deal and they offer lower  because of the added risk of buying sight unseen.
   Ed
   
   

Facebook

1. The younger generation these days seem to sell stuff faster on Facebook or Twitter etc.
   
   

HEMMINGS cLASIFIEDS.

1. From time to time I check, the prices and what is available there.
   
   

Nextdoor

1. I’ve listed cars on Nextdoor and gotten insults and lowballers but that may be the type of people who live around me. I’ll never sell a car on Nextdoor.
   
   

Offer Up

1. I’ve sold cheap stuff ($1-100 items) on Offer Up listed many cars which never got a lot of interest. 
   
   

Taking Good Auto Pictures for Sale of your Car

1. Bright sun is not the best. Harsh highlights and deep shadows hide details. It’s especially bad for shooting under the hood or the interior. Overcast can work well — colors pop on a really gray day. The soft shadows approximate studio lighting.
   
   

2. Most pros take advantage of the “magic hour” at dawn and sunset, when the sun’s rays are more nearly horizontal and everything acquires a golden tone. But you need to make sure your site has the correct orientation. This would be for “glamor shots’ — detail shots might need more vertical light.
   Max Heim - ’67 Fastback, ’67 Conv.
   
   

3. Regardless if you choose late day/early morning, the car should be on the same side of a building as the sun. It wants to be lit, and the sun reflection off the wall will help light the backside, reducing shadow intensity. And of course you don't want the camera looking into the sun.
   Max Heim - ’67 Fastback, ’67 Conv.
   
   

4. Make sure you provide enough detailed pictures of the underside, under the hood, trunk floor, floor, rockers, close interior, and lengthwise panel shots to see wavyness, etc. That's mainly what people are looking for.
   
   

5. When paying good money for a car, you almost never get what you are hoping for, so people come to expect that they have to come in person to see it before laying out their money. But that is a pain in the neck and expensive to do if it is far away. By providing a lot of confidence about your car with good pictures, they will feel more comfortable about buying it sight unseen, or at least won't feel like they will be wasting their time and money to come out to see it before buying it.
   Nathan Nutthall - ’67 FB